Solo Exploration of Peneda-Gerês National Park

Whispers of Water and Stone

Today was a day of pure immersion in the heart of Peneda-Gerês National Park. It felt like stepping back in time while simultaneously being awestruck by the raw, untamed beauty of nature. From cascading waterfalls to ancient roads, every moment was a testament to the enduring spirit of this remarkable place. I started the day with a hearty breakfast and ended it with a satisfied smile, ready to share my adventures with you all.

My day began with a delightful breakfast at Espreita. Tucked away, it felt like a local secret, a far cry from the simple kebab place it might appear to be. I savored every bite, fueling up for the day's adventures. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, and I enjoyed a traditional Portuguese breakfast before setting off. The reviews online were spot-on – it’s a hidden gem that truly respects its cuisine. It's amazing to find such quality in a seemingly unassuming spot.


Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Espreita in Gerês National Park—a perfect blend of nature and flavor.

First on the agenda was the breathtaking Cascata da Portela do Homem. The drive there was stunning, each turn revealing more of the park's rugged beauty. When I arrived, the waterfall was even more impressive than the photos I had seen. The water cascaded down the rocks into a clear pool, surrounded by lush vegetation. I took my time here, soaking in the serene atmosphere and snapping photos to try and capture the moment. It was easy to see why this spot is so beloved – the raw power and natural beauty are simply captivating. I even saw some people taking a refreshing dip in the pool, though I decided to just admire from afar; maybe next time I'll be brave enough to jump in!


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Cascata da Portela do Homem, a must-visit waterfall in Portugal's Gerês National Park, perfect for nature lovers and adventure seekers.

From there, I ventured into the heart of Mata de Albergaria (Gerês), one of the most beautiful forests in Portugal. The plan was to hike a portion of the Albergaria forest trail, a roughly 5 km route starting and ending at Portela do Homem near the Spanish border. The trail wound through ancient oaks and lush greenery, with sunlight filtering through the canopy. It felt like stepping into another world, a place where time stood still. What made this hike even more special was that it coincided with a section of the Geira, the old Roman road that once connected Braga to Astorga. Walking along the ancient stones, I couldn't help but marvel at the ingenuity and endurance of the Romans. It was humbling to walk in their footsteps, imagining the countless travelers who had journeyed this path centuries ago.


Explore the lush landscapes of Mata de Albergaria, a serene national forest in Gerês National Park, perfect for hiking, wildlife watching, and rejuvenating nature escapes.

The forest whispers secrets of the past, while the waterfalls sing songs of the present.

I was so engrossed in the hike, I almost forgot about my forgotten insect repellent. Luckily, the mosquitoes weren't too bad, but I definitely made a mental note to add it to my essential packing list for future trips. I also realized how much I missed having Pieter with me on this adventure. We always enjoy exploring historical sites together, and I know he would have been fascinated by the Roman road. I made a promise to myself to bring him back here someday soon.

For lunch, I stopped at O Pimpão, located near Vila do Gerês. This was a delightful find! The restaurant was cozy and inviting, and the staff were incredibly friendly. I decided to try one of their regional Portuguese dishes, and it was absolutely delicious. The views from the restaurant were also stunning, overlooking the mountains and river. I sat on the balcony, enjoying my meal and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. It was the perfect spot to recharge before continuing my explorations.


Discover authentic Portuguese cuisine at O Pimpão in Gerês—where culinary tradition meets breathtaking nature.

After lunch, I decided to treat myself to a drink at Marina Bar. Situated near the Caniçada reservoir, this bar offered breathtaking views of the water and surrounding landscape. It was the perfect place to unwind after a day of hiking. I sipped on a refreshing drink, watching the sunset paint the sky with vibrant colors. The marina was bustling with activity, with boats coming and going, and people enjoying the beautiful evening. I struck up a conversation with a local, who shared some interesting stories about the area and gave me some tips for my upcoming hikes. It's moments like these that make traveling so rewarding – connecting with people and learning about their culture.


Experience the essence of Portuguese hospitality at Marina Bar, a scenic riverside retreat in Rio Caldo offering delicious food and stunning views.

As the sun began to set, I made my way to Soajo for dinner at Restaurante Espigueiro do Soajo. The restaurant is known for its traditional Portuguese cuisine, and I was eager to try it. The reviews I read mentioned the cozy atmosphere and delicious food, and I was not disappointed. I ordered one of their specialty dishes, and it was cooked to perfection. The flavors were rich and authentic, and the portion size was generous. The restaurant itself had a rustic charm, with stone walls and wooden beams. It felt like stepping back in time, and I savored every moment of the experience.


Experience authentic Portuguese flavors at Restaurante Espigueiro do Soajo – where every dish tells a story.

After dinner, I took a stroll through the village of Soajo. The ancient granaries, or *espigueiros*, were particularly striking against the night sky. These stone structures, used for storing corn, are a symbol of the region's agricultural heritage. I spent some time admiring them, imagining the lives of the people who had built and used them centuries ago. It was a peaceful and reflective end to a day filled with adventure and discovery.

Tomorrow, I plan to delve deeper into the park's history with a visit to Minas dos Carris and Fonte da Batoca. I'm excited to see what other hidden gems I can uncover in this beautiful corner of Portugal. I'll be sure to start the day with breakfast at Restaurante Retiro do Gerês, followed by lunch at Encosta do Rio. Dinner will be at Saber ao Borralho, and I might even stop by Peneda Gerês Adventure Center by Tobogã for some souvenir shopping. Stay tuned for more tales from the trail!

As I settle in for the night, I can't help but feel grateful for this incredible experience. Peneda-Gerês National Park has truly captured my heart, and I know I'll be back again soon. It's a place where nature and history intertwine, creating a unique and unforgettable destination. And as a sustainability consultant, I'm particularly impressed by the park's conservation efforts. It's inspiring to see how they manage to preserve such a pristine environment for future generations. I am thinking of exploring how I could help them in their sustainability efforts, and maybe even propose a project in collaboration with my company in the Netherlands, when I get back.

Good night from Gerês!