Solo Adventure in Historic Coimbra

First Day in Coimbra: A Journey Through Time

Arriving in Coimbra, I was immediately struck by the palpable sense of history woven into the very fabric of the city. As a newcomer, I was eager to explore the iconic landmarks that have shaped Coimbra's identity, from its prestigious university to its ancient cathedral. Today was all about immersing myself in the city's rich heritage, and I couldn't wait to see what treasures I would uncover.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at A Cozinha da Maria. It was a cozy spot, not too far from where I was staying. I wanted to try something authentically Portuguese, so I asked the staff for a recommendation. They suggested the *pão com chouriço* and a strong *galão*. It was the perfect fuel for a day of exploring. The *pão com chouriço* was warm and flavorful, and the *galão* provided the caffeine kick I needed to start my day.


Experience authentic Portuguese flavors at A Cozinha da Maria in Coimbra, where traditional dishes meet modern charm.

Exploring the University of Coimbra

My first stop was the University of Coimbra, a UNESCO World Heritage site. As someone who values education and history, I was excited to see this institution, one of the oldest universities in continuous operation in the world. Founded in 1290, it has witnessed centuries of academic and cultural evolution.


Explore the University of Coimbra, a UNESCO World Heritage site, blending centuries of history, stunning architecture, and vibrant student life in the heart of Portugal.

Walking through the courtyards, I imagined the countless scholars who had walked these same paths, their minds filled with knowledge and ambition. The architecture was stunning, a blend of different styles reflecting the various periods of its expansion. I spent a good amount of time admiring the intricate details of the buildings, each telling a story of the past. It's February, so the weather was mild, with a slight chill in the air, but the sun was shining, making it a perfect day for exploring.

The university wasn't just a collection of old buildings; it was a living, breathing institution. I saw students rushing to classes, professors engaged in discussions, and the general hustle and bustle of academic life. I even overheard a group of students discussing the upcoming European Degree, an initiative aimed at strengthening higher education across Europe. It was inspiring to see the university continuing to evolve and adapt to the changing times.

Awe at Joanina Library

Next on my list was the Joanina Library, located within the university grounds. This baroque library is considered one of the most beautiful and unique libraries in the world. As I stepped inside, I was immediately transported to another era. The opulent decoration, the gilded shelves, and the thousands of ancient books created an atmosphere of reverence and awe.


Explore the breathtaking Biblioteca Joanina in Coimbra, a baroque masterpiece renowned for its ancient texts and stunning architectural beauty.

The library is not only a beautiful space but also a functional one, housing over 60,000 volumes dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries. These books cover a wide range of subjects, from medicine and geography to philosophy and science. What struck me most was the dedication to preserving these texts for future generations. I learned that the library even has a colony of bats that help control insect populations, a unique and eco-friendly approach to preservation. As someone who appreciates the value of knowledge and the importance of preserving cultural heritage, I found the Joanina Library to be an incredibly inspiring place.

The Joanina Library is a testament to the enduring power of knowledge and the importance of preserving our cultural heritage for future generations.

Reflections at the Old Cathedral of Coimbra

After the Joanina Library, I made my way to the Old Cathedral of Coimbra, also known as the Sé Velha. This Romanesque cathedral dates back to the 12th century and is one of the most important examples of Romanesque architecture in Portugal. Its imposing structure and fortress-like appearance reflect the turbulent times in which it was built, during the Reconquista period. The weather remained pleasant, and the walk to the cathedral gave me a chance to see more of the city's charming streets and squares.


Discover the architectural beauty and historical significance of the Old Cathedral of Saint Mary of Coimbra, a must-see landmark in Portugal's cultural heart.

As I stepped inside the cathedral, I was struck by its austere beauty. The massive stone walls, the narrow windows, and the simple, yet elegant design created a sense of solemnity and reverence. I spent some time walking around the interior, admiring the intricate details of the columns and arches. The cathedral's cloister, built in the Gothic style, was a peaceful oasis, with its delicate arches and tranquil atmosphere. I lit a candle for my family, thinking of Fatima and the kids back home in Edmonton.

The Old Cathedral has witnessed many significant events in Portuguese history, including the crowning of King Sancho I in 1185. Standing in this ancient space, I felt a connection to the past, a sense of being part of a long and unbroken chain of history. It was a humbling and thought-provoking experience.

Lunch at Zé Manel dos Ossos

By this time, I was quite hungry, so I decided to head to Restaurante Zé Manel dos Ossos for lunch. This traditional restaurant is known for its authentic Portuguese cuisine and its unique atmosphere. It's located in a narrow alleyway, and the interior is decorated with messages and drawings left by previous customers. It felt like stepping into a secret society, a hidden gem known only to locals and savvy travelers.


Discover authentic Portuguese cuisine at Restaurante Zé Manel dos Ossos in Coimbra - a must-visit for food lovers seeking traditional flavors.

I ordered the *Ossos Cozidos*, the restaurant's signature dish, along with a glass of *vinho da casa*. The *Ossos Cozidos* were delicious, tender pork bones cooked in a flavorful broth. It was a hearty and satisfying meal, perfect for a cold February day. The *vinho da casa* was a simple, yet pleasant red wine that complemented the dish perfectly. The restaurant was bustling with activity, filled with locals and tourists alike, all enjoying the delicious food and the convivial atmosphere. It was a great place to soak up the local culture and experience the authentic flavors of Coimbra.

Evening Reflections and a Nightcap

As evening approached, I decided to take a stroll along the Mondego River. The setting sun cast a golden glow over the city, creating a magical atmosphere. I walked across the Pedro e Inês Bridge, admiring the views of the city and the river. It was a peaceful and reflective moment, a chance to process all that I had seen and experienced during the day. I thought about Fatima and the kids, missing them but also feeling grateful for the opportunity to explore this beautiful city on my own.

For dinner, I went to Restaurante O Trovador, located near the Old Cathedral. I decided to try some traditional Portuguese dishes. The restaurant had a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, and the staff were friendly and helpful. I ordered the *chanfana*, a traditional goat stew, and a glass of red wine. The *chanfana* was rich and flavorful, and the red wine was the perfect complement. The restaurant also offered live Fado music on weekends, adding to the authentic Portuguese experience.


Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Restaurante O Trovador in Coimbra, where tradition meets flavor in a charming setting.

To cap off the evening, I ventured to Quebra Bar. The bar was lively, with a mix of locals and tourists enjoying drinks and conversation. I ordered a gin and tonic and sat at the bar, soaking up the atmosphere. It was a great way to end a day of exploring, a chance to unwind and reflect on all that I had seen and learned. The bartender was friendly, and we chatted about the city and its history. It turned out that Quebra Bar is a historic spot, known for its good music and relaxed vibe.


Experience the warmth and vibrancy of Coimbra at Quebra Bar, a local favorite for tasty drinks and lively atmosphere, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration.

As I walked back to my accommodation, I felt a sense of gratitude and contentment. My first day in Coimbra had been a resounding success, filled with history, culture, and delicious food. I had explored iconic landmarks, tasted authentic cuisine, and experienced the warmth and hospitality of the Portuguese people. I was excited to see what tomorrow would bring, with plans to visit the Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha, the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova, and Portugal dos Pequenitos. Tomorrow promises to be just as enriching, with visits to the Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha, the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova, and the delightful Portugal dos Pequenitos. I'm also looking forward to trying out Restaurante No Tacho cozinha portuguesa for breakfast, Cordel Maneirista for lunch, and Restaurante Solar do Bacalhau for dinner. Plus, a little shopping at Portugalidades is on the agenda. Coimbra, you have captured my heart!

As I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but smile. Coimbra was already exceeding my expectations, and I knew that the rest of my solo adventure would be just as memorable. I am so glad I decided to come here and experience this incredible city. Maybe one day I'll bring Fatima and the kids.

Traveling solo allows you to fully immerse yourself in the local culture and discover hidden gems that you might otherwise miss.