A Solo Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

First Steps on the Sacred Trail

Today marked the beginning of my solo pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo, a journey I've been anticipating for months. As I set foot on this ancient trail, a sense of peace and excitement washed over me. It's a blend of spiritual quest and personal exploration, and I am eager to share every step of this adventure.

My day started early in Osaka, where I caught a series of trains and buses that eventually led me to the heart of the Kumano region. The journey itself was a meditative experience, watching the landscapes shift from bustling cityscapes to serene, verdant mountains. Even though I was traveling alone, I felt a connection to the countless pilgrims who have traversed these paths over centuries.

My first official stop was the Kumano Kodo Information Center. Nestled in the town of Tanabe, it’s a treasure trove of knowledge for anyone embarking on this pilgrimage. The staff were incredibly helpful, providing maps, trail conditions, and insights into the cultural significance of the Kumano Kodo. They patiently answered all my questions, and I felt much more prepared after spending some time there.


Explore the Kumano Kodo Information Center for a deep dive into the history and culture of Japan's ancient pilgrimage routes.

“Know the mountain, know thyself.” As the Mozambican proverb goes, understanding the path ahead is as crucial as understanding oneself on a journey of self-discovery.

Breakfast was a delightful affair at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. I savored a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with miso soup, grilled fish, and a variety of pickled vegetables. The fresh, local ingredients were a testament to the region's dedication to quality and tradition. It was the perfect fuel for the day ahead.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

After the Information Center, I decided to explore the local shops, making my way to Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. This roadside stop was a vibrant hub of local produce, crafts, and snacks. I picked up a few souvenirs for Fatima and the kids – small trinkets that I hope will convey the spirit of this journey. I also grabbed some local honey, knowing Sheila would love it on her toast back in Edmonton.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

Lunch was a memorable experience at the Fushiogami Teahouse. This charming spot is known for its traditional Japanese tea and light meals. I enjoyed a bowl of warm soba noodles with mountain vegetables, a simple yet satisfying meal that nourished both body and soul. The teahouse itself exuded a sense of tranquility, with its traditional architecture and serene garden views.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

As the afternoon progressed, I took some time to reflect on my journey so far. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it’s a path steeped in history and spirituality. I thought about my family back in Edmonton. I missed Fatima’s warm smile and the kids' boundless energy. I made a promise to bring back stories and experiences that would enrich our lives.

For dinner, I treated myself to a meal at Hinoki Steak House. While it might seem unconventional to have steak in the heart of Japan, I couldn't resist the allure of locally sourced Hinoki beef. The steak was cooked to perfection, tender and flavorful, and served with a side of grilled vegetables. It was a delightful end to a day filled with exploration and reflection.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

As I settle into my accommodations for the night, I can't help but feel a sense of gratitude. Today was just the beginning, but it set the tone for what I hope will be a transformative journey. Tomorrow, I plan to tackle the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead and visit Oyunohara, the site of the original Hongu Shrine, before heading to Kumano Hongu Taisha. I also plan on grabbing breakfast at Yorozuya Eatery, lunch at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, and dinner at Kumagoro. And if I have time, I might check out Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for a nightcap.

The air is crisp and clean, and the sounds of nature lull me into a peaceful state. I’m excited for what tomorrow holds and the continued exploration of this sacred path. I feel a deep sense of connection to my roots. This pilgrimage is not just about walking a trail, but about finding a deeper understanding of myself and my place in the world. Boa noite from Kumano Kodo. I will share more tomorrow!

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

I’m reminded of the importance of taking things one step at a time, both on the trail and in life. This pilgrimage is a reminder that every small action contributes to a larger journey, and every moment is an opportunity for growth and reflection.

Back in Edmonton, my days are filled with the routine of electrical work, family responsibilities, and community events. But here, on the Kumano Kodo, I feel a sense of freedom and purpose that is both invigorating and humbling. It’s a chance to disconnect from the noise of modern life and reconnect with the rhythms of nature and the wisdom of ancient traditions. I am eager to learn more about myself and the world around me.

I’ve also realized how much I miss Fatima’s cooking! While the Japanese cuisine has been amazing, there’s nothing quite like a home-cooked Mozambican meal. I’m already planning to recreate some of the dishes I’ve tried here when I get back, adding my own Mozambican twist, of course.

Before drifting off to sleep, I take out my journal and jot down some thoughts from the day. I reflect on the kindness of the people I’ve met, the beauty of the landscapes I’ve seen, and the sense of peace that has settled over me. I remind myself to stay present, to be open to new experiences, and to embrace the challenges that lie ahead.

As I close my eyes, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for this opportunity to embark on such a meaningful journey. I know that the Kumano Kodo will leave a lasting impact on my life, shaping my perspective and deepening my understanding of myself and the world around me. I'm excited to see what the coming days will bring, and I'm committed to sharing my experiences with all of you.

This trip has also made me think about my parents and grandparents back in Mozambique. They always emphasized the importance of staying connected to our roots and honoring our traditions. I feel like this pilgrimage is a way of honoring their memory and carrying on their legacy. I hope to instill the same values in Nelson and Sheila, teaching them the importance of culture, history, and spirituality.

And of course, I can’t forget about my forgotten trip essentials! I really wish I had brought an extra memory card for my camera. The scenery here is so breathtaking, and I’m constantly running out of space. I’ll definitely need to pick one up tomorrow. A Japanese phrasebook would also be incredibly helpful. While most people have been very accommodating, it would be nice to be able to communicate more fluently.

As I finally drift off to sleep, I dream of ancient temples, winding trails, and the faces of the people I’ve met today. I can’t wait to continue this adventure tomorrow and share more of my experiences with you all. Until then, boa noite and sweet dreams.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a physical journey; it's a spiritual awakening. Each step I take on this ancient path brings me closer to understanding myself and the world around me. I look forward to sharing more of this journey with you, as I continue to explore the sacred trails and uncover the hidden gems of Japan.