A Solo Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Echoes of Pilgrims Past

Today was a day where the whispers of history seemed to guide my every step. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a living tapestry woven with centuries of prayers, hopes, and reflections. It's a path where the past and present converge, inviting you to become a part of its timeless story. Today, I explored ancient paths, serene shrines, and savored the flavors of Kumano, deepening my connection to this sacred land.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe in Koya. It's a quaint little place, and the owner, whose name I didn't catch, was incredibly welcoming. The simple, wholesome food was exactly what I needed to fuel up for the day's adventures. I had a quick chat with another traveler over coffee, a young woman from France who was also walking the Kumano Kodo. We exchanged stories and tips, a reminder of the global community drawn to this spiritual path. It's amazing how a shared journey can create instant connections.

With a full stomach and a lighter spirit, I set out to tackle the Koyazaka Slope. This section of the Kumano Kodo, near Shingu, promised a blend of coastal scenery and historical intrigue. The air was thick with humidity, a typical July morning in Japan, but the anticipation of the trail ahead kept me energized. As I started my ascent, I couldn't help but think about the countless pilgrims who had walked this path before me, their footsteps echoing through time. According to some sources, the Koyazaka Slope is a section of the Kumano Kodo that leads along the coast to Nachi Station. It was also interesting to learn that Ojigahama is the name for the beach on the Shingu side of the Kumano-gawa River. Along the way are side trails to lookout points that whalers traditionally used.


Discover the enchanting Koyazaka Slope in Wakayama, a captivating hiking area rich in history and breathtaking views, perfect for all nature lovers.

The beauty of the Kumano Kodo lies not just in its stunning landscapes, but in the profound sense of connection it fosters with history, nature, and oneself.

The Koyazaka Slope was beautiful. Moss-covered cobblestones paved the way, and the ocean peeked through the trees, offering glimpses of the vast expanse beyond. The path was well-maintained, but the humidity made it a bit slippery in places. I took my time, savoring each step and imagining the lives of those who had walked this same route centuries ago. I paused at a viewpoint where whalers once kept watch, a stark reminder of the region's history and its relationship with the sea. It was a moment of reflection, contemplating the changing times and the enduring spirit of the Kumano Kodo.

After descending the Koyazaka Slope, I made my way to Inabaneoji Shrine. Nestled in the heart of Kamitonda, the shrine offered a tranquil escape. As I approached, the air grew still, the sounds of the modern world fading into a distant hum. The shrine, dedicated to Inabane, a deity of rice and agriculture, exuded a sense of peace and prosperity. I took my time wandering through the grounds, admiring the traditional Japanese architecture that harmonized seamlessly with the surrounding greenery. I even participated in a local custom, writing a wish on an ema (wooden plaque) and hanging it with the others, sending my hopes into the universe.


Experience the serene beauty and cultural significance of Inabaneoji Shrine, a must-visit Shinto site in the lush landscapes of Kamitonda.

Lunch was at Hinoki Steak House. It was a welcome change from the more traditional fare I'd been enjoying. I opted for the Kumano beef hamburg steak, cooked rare. It was delicious! The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, and the staff were friendly and efficient. Apparently, the hamburg steaks are made from 100% Kumano beef, and diners can choose their preferred doneness including having it served rare. It was a satisfying meal that fueled me for the rest of the day.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

As the sun began to dip lower in the sky, I decided to treat myself to a drink at Kumano Winery Guest House / Dal Chef’s Table. The guest house is about 20 minutes walk from Nejiki-no-Sugi along the Shiomi-toge route of the Kumano Kodo. It was a bit off the beaten path, but the promise of local wine and Italian cuisine was too tempting to resist. The owner, Giovanni, was a charming host, and his passion for food and wine was infectious. I sampled a glass of his homemade wine, a surprisingly delightful blend of Italian and Japanese flavors. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of hiking and exploration. I learned that Giovanni came to Japan in 2013, and after years working in Kyoto, ran his own local Italian restaurant, creating his own balsamic vinegar with homegrown ingredients and branded his own wine. In September 2019, the couple opened their dream guest house just perfect for Kumano travelers to get away from their busy life. Apparently, Dal Chef's Table, the restaurant at the guest house, was listed in The Michelin Guide in 2022.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

Dinner was at Kakinoate, a charming sushi restaurant that offers unique persimmon leaf-wrapped sushi with salmon and mackerel, along with soba noodles. It’s a traditional shop, and it’s recommended to arrive early as they tend to sell out quickly. I savored each bite, reflecting on the day's adventures. The vinegared rice had a light taste, and I also enjoyed homemade bisque cheesecake that paired well with black coffee.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

As I sit here now, writing this in my room at Jokiin, I can't help but feel a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a physical journey; it's a spiritual one. It's a chance to connect with nature, history, and oneself. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow, when I plan to explore the Kumano-Kodo Ohechi Pilgrimage Route - Hokoritake-no-gunraku Colony and the Kumano Kodo Park. Before that, I will have breakfast at Watarase onsen cafe, then lunch at Fushiogami Teahouse and dinner at Akihei. I might also visit the Kumano Kodo Information Center.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

It's funny, before I left Edmonton, Fatima packed a Japanese phrasebook for me, thinking it would be essential. But honestly, the smiles and shared experiences have spoken louder than any words. And maybe that's the real magic of the Kumano Kodo – it transcends language and culture, inviting everyone to find their own path to peace and understanding.

Tomorrow, I continue my pilgrimage, carrying the echoes of today's journey in my heart. I'm excited to see what new adventures await, what new stories the Kumano Kodo has to tell. And I'm grateful for the opportunity to share this journey with you all. Until then, safe travels, and may your own paths be filled with wonder and discovery.

Walking the Kumano Kodo is like stepping into a living museum, where every stone and every tree has a story to tell. It's a journey that nourishes the soul and awakens the spirit. It reminds me a bit of growing up in Chibuto, where the land itself felt sacred. Here, in Japan, I feel that same connection, that same sense of belonging to something ancient and profound. It's a feeling I'll carry with me long after I leave this sacred path.

Boa noite from Japan!