A Solo Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

A Day of Discovery in Kumano

Today was a sensory feast, a deep dive into the natural beauty and local flavors of Kumano. From the serene depths of a limestone cave to the stunning heights of a gorge, and the bustling energy of a local market, every moment was a vibrant experience. It's days like these that remind me why I embarked on this solo pilgrimage – to connect with the heart of Japan, one step and one taste at a time.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. It was a charming little spot along the Kumano Kodo, and I fuelled up with some delicious local pastries and strong coffee before heading off to explore the natural wonders of the region. The cafe itself was cozy, filled with the aroma of freshly baked goods and the murmur of fellow travelers exchanging stories of their journeys. It reminded me of the small 'padarias' back in Mozambique, where the simple act of sharing bread and coffee creates a sense of community.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

First up was the Doro Kyo Gorge. The bus ride there was an adventure in itself, winding through lush green hills and past quaint villages. I couldn't help but think of Fatima and the kids, imagining their excitement at seeing such breathtaking landscapes. When I arrived, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale of the gorge. Towering cliffs framed the emerald green waters of the Kitayama River, creating a scene of almost otherworldly beauty.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge in Wakayama, Japan—where nature’s artwork meets adventure amidst stunning landscapes.

I opted for a boat tour to fully appreciate the gorge's majesty. As the boat glided along the river, I gazed up at the dramatic rock formations and cascading waterfalls, feeling a sense of awe and tranquility wash over me. The air was fresh and clean, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. It was a truly immersive experience, a chance to connect with nature on a profound level. The guide shared stories of the gorge's history and significance, adding another layer of depth to the experience. I learned that the gorge has been designated as a Special Place of Scenic Beauty and a Natural Monument by Japan.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the quiet corners of the world, where nature speaks in its own ancient language.

Next on the agenda was the Totsui Limestone Cave. After the bright sunshine of the gorge, stepping into the cave was like entering another world – a cool, dark realm of stalactites and stalagmites. The air was noticeably cooler, a welcome respite from the summer heat. The cave was relatively small, only about 100 meters in length, but it was packed with geological wonders. I wandered through the winding passages, marveling at the intricate formations that have been sculpted over millions of years. The Heaven's Curtain in the stalactite room was a particular highlight, a delicate cascade of rock that seemed to defy gravity. It reminded me of the caves I explored as a boy in Mozambique, sparking a sense of nostalgia and wonder.


Discover the enchanting Totsui Limestone Cave in Wakayama, a natural wonder filled with stunning rock formations and rich geological history.

The Totsui Limestone Cave is known for its stunning rock formations that have been sculpted over millennia. As I wandered through the winding passages, I encountered breathtaking stalactites and stalagmites that sparkled in the dim light, creating a magical ambiance. The cave's interior not only was a visual delight but also held significant geological importance.

After a morning of exploring natural wonders, my stomach was starting to rumble. I headed to Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall for lunch. This charming spot is located in the heart of the Yunomine Onsen area, known for its soothing hot springs and rich cultural heritage. The dining hall served as a casual Japanese-style restaurant, where I indulged in a variety of traditional dishes that reflected the flavors of the region. The ambiance was warm and welcoming, making it an ideal spot for tourists seeking a break from their adventures on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. I savored a delicious teishoku set, a traditional Japanese meal with rice, miso soup, and various side dishes. It was the perfect way to refuel and immerse myself in the local culture. The friendly staff were eager to share recommendations, ensuring that I had a memorable dining experience.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

In the afternoon, I decided to explore the local markets. My destination: Toretore Market. It was a short bus ride away, and as soon as I stepped off the bus, I was greeted by a cacophony of sounds and smells. The market was a hive of activity, with vendors hawking their wares and customers haggling over prices. There were stalls piled high with fresh seafood, local produce, and all sorts of other goods. I wandered through the aisles, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere.


Experience the vibrant Toretore Market in Shirahama, where local crafts, fresh seafood, and authentic Japanese souvenirs await every traveler.

I watched a tuna-cutting show, marveling at the skill and precision of the fishmonger as he expertly carved up a massive tuna. The finished cuts were then made available for sale, and I couldn't resist buying a few slices of the freshest sashimi I've ever tasted. I also sampled some local delicacies, such as pickled plums and grilled squid, each bite a burst of unique flavors. The market was a feast for the senses, a true reflection of the region's bounty.

For dinner, I chose Takehara, a local restaurant known for its fresh tuna dishes. It was a small, cozy place, the kind of spot where you feel like you're getting an authentic taste of the local culture. I ordered a tuna set meal, which included sashimi, grilled tuna, and tuna miso soup. Every dish was a masterpiece, the tuna melting in my mouth with each bite. The chef clearly took pride in his craft, and his passion for food was evident in every dish. I ended my day with a satisfied smile, feeling grateful for the experiences I had and the connections I made.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I'm struck by the incredible diversity of experiences that Kumano Kodo has to offer. From the tranquility of the Doro Kyo Gorge to the geological wonders of the Totsui Limestone Cave, and the culinary delights of the local restaurants and markets, every moment has been a gift. I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this sacred land and connect with its rich cultural heritage.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my pilgrimage by crossing the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass and exploring the Yoshino Kumano National Park. I'm also looking forward to trying the local cuisine at Fushiogami Teahouse for lunch and Akihei for dinner. And who knows, maybe I'll even stop by Why Kumano for a drink in the evening. Until then, 'boni tsikupona' or good night, from Kumano!