A Solo Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Pilgrim's Progress

Today was a day of deep connection with the ancient paths of the Kumano Kodo. The Nakahechi route, with its storied past and serene landscapes, offered a profound experience that resonated with my soul. I embraced the challenge of the trail, savoring every moment of quiet reflection and natural beauty. It's days like these that remind me why I embarked on this solo pilgrimage.

The day began early with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. The cafe, a charming spot, was bustling with fellow hikers and locals alike. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set, fueling up for the day's trek. It's amazing how a simple meal can set the tone for an entire day, and the fresh, local ingredients were a perfect start. The cafe itself has quite a story, apparently it was a sake store warehouse for over 40 years before being renovated into the cafe that it is today, which explains the retro design.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set off to tackle the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route. The trail immediately immersed me in a world of verdant forests and gentle streams. The air was thick with humidity, a typical characteristic of summer in Japan, but the shade provided by the towering trees offered a welcome respite from the sun.


Explore the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route, a UNESCO World Heritage site, for a blend of breathtaking nature and rich cultural heritage in Wakayama, Japan.

The path was well-maintained, a testament to the care and respect given to this ancient pilgrimage route. As I walked, I couldn't help but imagine the countless pilgrims who had walked this same path centuries before, seeking spiritual enlightenment and connection with nature. I tried to picture emperors and aristocrats walking the same path, imagining what they would have been thinking about.

The highlight of the day was undoubtedly the ascent to Yata Pass. This section of the Kumano Kodo, also known as the Kiritoshi Road, is renowned for its steep inclines and panoramic views. The climb was challenging, testing my physical and mental endurance. But with each step, I felt a sense of accomplishment, pushing myself further and embracing the discomfort.


Experience the serenity and cultural richness of Yata Pass, an essential stop on the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Trail in Wakayama, Japan.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

Reaching the summit of Yata Pass was an exhilarating experience. The views were simply breathtaking, a reward for the arduous climb. From the vantage point, I could see the rolling hills of the Kii Peninsula stretching out before me, a tapestry of green and blue. I paused to take it all in, feeling a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness such natural beauty. I took a moment to remember my family back in Edmonton, sharing with them the beauty of the view in my mind's eye.

For lunch, I stopped at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. This casual Japanese-style restaurant offered a welcome break and a chance to refuel. I opted for a traditional teishoku set, savoring the flavors of local ingredients. The dining hall also functions as a newsstand, which is quite a convenient stop for travelers. It's amazing how a simple meal can taste so much better after a long hike.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

After lunch, I continued my journey, making my way back down the mountain. The descent was much easier on the legs, but required careful footing to avoid any slips or falls. As I walked, I reflected on the day's experiences, the challenges overcome, and the beauty witnessed.

In the late afternoon, I treated myself to a relaxing drink at the Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. This unique establishment combines a guesthouse with an Italian restaurant and a local winery. I enjoyed a glass of their homemade wine, savoring the flavors of the Kumano region. The owner, Giovanni Dal Bosco, came to Japan in 2013 and opened his dream guest house in 2019. It's stories like these that add depth and richness to my travel experiences. I could have even helped milk the 36 goats that they have there, but I decided to relax instead.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

For dinner, I decided to try Takehara, a restaurant known for its superb tuna dishes. Nachikatsuura fishing port is one of the leading Japanese tuna bases so it was definitely worth checking out. The menu was extensive, offering a variety of tuna options, from raw to grilled to deep-fried. I opted for the chef's special, a tuna sashimi set that was simply divine. The fish was incredibly fresh, melting in my mouth with each bite. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

As I sit here now, reflecting on the day's adventures, I feel a deep sense of gratitude. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it's a journey of self-discovery, a chance to connect with nature, and a reminder of the simple joys in life. I'm looking forward to tomorrow's adventure, where I plan to visit the Asuka Shrine and the National Natural Monument Onigajō Cliff. I'll be sure to start the day with breakfast at Watarase onsen cafe, and maybe pick up a souvenir at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center.

The weather forecast for tomorrow predicts very hot weather, so I'll need to be prepared with plenty of water and sunscreen. I'm also looking forward to trying the local cuisine at Fushiogami Teahouse for lunch and Akihei for dinner. It's these small moments of discovery and connection that make traveling so rewarding. This trip has been an amazing journey so far, and I can't wait to see what the rest of the pilgrimage has in store for me.

The Kumano Kodo is truly a special place, and I feel privileged to be able to experience its beauty and spirituality firsthand. It's moments like these that make me appreciate the simple things in life and remind me of the importance of connecting with nature and with myself. I am looking forward to sharing more stories with Fatima, Nelson and Sheila when I get back home to Edmonton. It's experiences like these that enrich my life and make me a better person. The scar above my left eyebrow seems to tell a different story after every hike.

I'm off to get some rest now, ready for another day of adventure on the Kumano Kodo. Until tomorrow, safe travels and may your own journeys be filled with discovery and wonder.