A Solo Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Finding Serenity in Nachi

Today was a day of deep connection with nature and spirituality as I explored the magnificent Kumano Nachi Taisha and its surroundings. The journey was filled with stunning sights, from Japan's tallest waterfall to ancient temples and shrines, each holding centuries of history and tradition. It was a day that reminded me why I embarked on this solo pilgrimage in the first place – to find peace and understanding amidst the beauty of Kumano Kodo.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. The strong coffee and homemade treats were just what I needed to fuel up for the day's adventures. I savored every bite, thinking about Fatima and the kids back home in Edmonton. I imagined Nelson playing soccer in the park and Sheila braiding her doll's hair. I miss them dearly, but I know this journey is important for me, and in turn, for them.

With a full stomach and a sense of purpose, I set off towards Kumano-Nachi Taisha. The air was thick with humidity, a typical July day in Japan. The path leading to the shrine was lined with towering cedar trees, their roots gnarled and exposed, clinging to the earth. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an ethereal glow that seemed to illuminate the way.

Reaching Kumano-Nachi Taisha was an experience in itself. The vibrant vermillion lacquered worship hall stood majestically against the backdrop of the lush green mountains. Climbing the 467 stone steps was a bit of a challenge, especially in the humid weather, but the sense of accomplishment upon reaching the top was well worth the effort.

The shrine exuded a sacred atmosphere. I took my time to explore the grounds, admiring the intricate details of the architecture and the serene expressions on the faces of the statues. I even had the chance to experience the Tainai Kuguri, passing through the womb of an ancient camphor tree, a symbolic act of rebirth. It was a humbling experience, reminding me of the cyclical nature of life and the importance of embracing change.

The mountains of Kumano are not just a place to visit; they are a place to be transformed.

Next on my itinerary was Nachi Waterfall, Japan's tallest waterfall, and it truly is a sight to behold. The water cascaded down the 133-meter cliff with tremendous force, creating a thunderous roar that echoed through the valley. The spray from the falls created a refreshing mist, cooling my skin and invigorating my senses. I paid the small fee to access the viewing platform and stood in awe of the natural power and beauty before me.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Nachi Waterfall, Japan's tallest waterfall, an iconic natural and spiritual landmark in Wakayama.

I learned that Nachi Waterfall has been revered since ancient times as an object of worship. There isn't a shrine building; the waterfall itself *is* the deity! Knowing this made the experience even more profound, connecting me to the ancient traditions and beliefs of the Kumano region. It reminded me of the stories my grandmother used to tell me about the sacred places in Mozambique, where nature was revered as a source of life and spirituality.

From Nachi Waterfall, I made my way to Seiganto-ji, a Buddhist temple located right next to Kumano-Nachi Taisha. The temple is said to have been founded in the 4th century by an Indian monk, making it one of the oldest structures in the Kumano area. The temple's three-story pagoda offers a stunning view of Nachi Waterfall, creating a picture-perfect scene that I had seen in countless photographs.


Discover the tranquility and beauty of Seiganto-ji, a historic Buddhist temple overlooking the stunning Nachi Falls in Wakayama, Japan.

The combination of the vibrant red pagoda against the backdrop of the cascading waterfall and the lush green mountains was truly breathtaking. I took my time to soak in the view, feeling a sense of peace and tranquility wash over me. It was a moment I knew I would never forget.

After exploring the temple grounds, I decided to visit the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, hoping to find a small souvenir to bring back to Fatima and the kids. The center was filled with local crafts and treats. I picked up a few small trinkets and a box of traditional Japanese sweets, hoping they would bring a smile to my family's faces. I also grabbed a small, intricately carved wooden figure of a *Komainu*, a guardian dog-lion, for my garden back in Edmonton. It will be a reminder of this incredible journey.


Discover unique souvenirs and delightful treats at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, your go-to destination in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama.

For lunch, I stopped at Tororoya, a local restaurant known for its *tororo* dishes. I savored a set meal with grated yam, a nutritious and delicious dish that has been popular in this region for centuries. It was a simple but satisfying meal, providing me with the energy I needed to continue my explorations.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to dinner at Akihei. The restaurant had a warm and inviting atmosphere, and the menu featured a variety of local specialties. I opted for a set meal with fresh seafood, savoring every bite and reflecting on the day's experiences.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

I thought about the Nachi Fire Festival, or Nachi-no-Ogi Matsuri, which will be held on July 14th. It is one of Japan's three largest fire festivals. Giant torches are carried down the path to purify the route to the waterfall. I'm sorry I will miss it by a week.

As I walked back to my accommodation, the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the mountains. I felt a sense of gratitude for the experiences I had today. I was grateful for the opportunity to connect with nature, to learn about the ancient traditions of Japan, and to find peace within myself.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my pilgrimage, visiting Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kamikura Shrine. I am also looking forward to enjoying a glass of wine at Wine Kumano, something I haven't done in a long time. I know that each day on this journey will bring new challenges and new discoveries, and I am excited to see what tomorrow holds.

This journey is not just about seeing new places; it's about finding a new perspective. It's about reconnecting with myself and with the world around me. And as I continue my pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo, I know that I am on the right path.

It's funny, I almost forgot that I didn't pack my Japanese phrasebook! I'll have to remember to pick one up when I get back to the city. For now, smiles and gestures will have to do.

After dinner, I sat down to reflect on the day and write this blog post. I am enjoying this journey, and I am so glad I decided to come. I feel like I am learning so much about myself and the world around me. I am also grateful for the opportunity to share my experiences with you, my readers. Thank you for following along on my journey.

I also learned today that July 7th, 2004, was the day that the three sacred shrine sites, Nachisan Seiganto-ji Temple, and the arterial pilgrimage routes, were designated as a World Heritage Site as the “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.” What a special day to have visited this area!

I am ending this day with a grateful heart and a renewed sense of purpose. I am excited to see what tomorrow brings.