A Solo Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Day 4: Shrines, Steps, and Serenity in Shingu

Today was a deep dive into the spiritual heart of Kumano Kodo, a day filled with ancient shrines, challenging climbs, and moments of profound peace. The air was thick with humidity, a typical July day, but the promise of sacred encounters kept my spirits high. It's days like these that remind me why I embarked on this solo pilgrimage, seeking a deeper connection with myself and the world around me.

My day began with breakfast at the Watarase onsen cafe. The simple meal of grilled fish, rice, and miso soup was the perfect fuel for the day ahead. The cafe was bustling with fellow pilgrims, each preparing for their own journey along the Kumano Kodo. There was a sense of camaraderie in the air, a shared understanding of the challenges and rewards that lay ahead. It reminded me of the community back in Edmonton, where we often gather for potlucks, sharing stories and laughter over home-cooked Mozambican dishes.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

First on the itinerary was Kumano Hayatama Taisha. As I approached, the vibrant vermillion of the shrine stood out against the lush green backdrop. It was a stunning sight, a testament to the enduring power of faith and tradition. I learned that Kumano Hayatama Taisha is one of the Kumano Sanzan, three grand shrines of Kumano, and head shrine of over 3,000 Kumano shrines across Japan. The shrine is said to have been built in 128 to enshrine the Kumano deities who descended to earth. The sheer number of shrines connected to this one is mind-boggling.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.

I took my time wandering through the grounds, admiring the intricate details of the architecture and the serene beauty of the gardens. The air was filled with the scent of incense, and the gentle sound of chanting echoed through the trees. I paused to watch a group of worshippers, their faces etched with devotion as they offered prayers to the gods. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the importance of faith in people's lives.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step, and each step on the Kumano Kodo is a step closer to understanding myself.

Next up was Kamikura Shrine, a site I had been particularly eager to visit. I knew it would be a challenge, with its 538 steep stone steps leading to the top of Mount Gongen, but I was determined to make the climb. As I started my ascent, I could feel the burn in my legs and the sweat dripping down my face. The steps were uneven and slippery, and I had to focus all my attention on each step to avoid a fall. It was definitely more challenging than my usual soccer games at the local park in Edmonton!


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

But as I climbed higher, the views became increasingly spectacular. I could see the town of Shingu spread out below me, the Kumano River snaking its way towards the ocean, and the lush green mountains stretching out into the distance. The higher I climbed, the more I felt myself transported to a different world, a world of ancient traditions and natural beauty. I paused several times to catch my breath and take in the scenery, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience such a unique and special place.

Finally, I reached the top, and I was rewarded with an even more breathtaking view. Perched on the edge of a cliff was Gotobiki-iwa Rock, an enormous rock that is said to be the place where the gods of Kumano first descended to earth. It was an awe-inspiring sight, a reminder of the power and majesty of nature. I spent some time sitting on a nearby rock, soaking in the atmosphere and reflecting on my journey so far. The sun was shining, the birds were singing, and I felt a sense of peace and contentment wash over me.

After descending from Kamikura Shrine, I treated myself to lunch at Hinoki Steak House. I decided to try the Kumano beef hamburg steak. It was a welcome change from the traditional Japanese food I had been eating, and it was absolutely delicious. The steak was juicy and flavorful, and the service was friendly and efficient. It felt good to indulge in a little bit of comfort food after a challenging morning of hiking.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

My final stop for the day was Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. This treasure hall is located on the grounds of Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine. Inside, the hall displayed artefacts excavated from the Nachisan Sutra Mound, ancient documents belonging to Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine designated National Cultural Properties, and other rare items concerning the history of Kumano and the Kumano faith. I found the Nachisan Shrine Mandala to be particularly well-preserved despite having been painted some 500 years ago. The hall also displayed a sacred sword that, according to tradition, descended to Nachi Waterfall from the heavens during the Age of the Gods. I was so engrossed in the artifacts that I lost track of time.


Explore the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall, a historical gem showcasing Japan's Shinto heritage and breathtaking natural beauty.

As the sun began to set, I made my way to Wine Kumano, a cozy little bar that specializes in natural wine and craft beer. I decided to treat myself to a glass of local wine, and I sat at the counter chatting with the friendly owner. He told me about the history of the bar and his passion for supporting local producers. It was a relaxing and enjoyable way to end a long day of exploring.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.

Reflecting on the day, I am struck by the sheer variety of experiences I had. From the ancient shrines to the challenging climbs to the delicious food, every moment was filled with wonder and discovery. I am grateful for the opportunity to immerse myself in the culture and history of Kumano Kodo, and I am excited to see what tomorrow brings.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Doro Kyo Gorge and Totsui Limestone Cave. I hear Doro Kyo Gorge is particularly beautiful, and I look forward to seeing it for myself. I'll also be sure to pack an extra memory card for my camera, as I don't want to miss any photo opportunities!

It's moments like these that make me appreciate the journey, the challenge, and the quiet moments of reflection. It reminds me of something my Fatima always says, back in Edmonton: A journey shared is a journey doubled. Even though I'm traveling solo, I feel her presence with me, guiding me along the way.