Solo Art Exploration on Naoshima Island

Art and Serenity on Naoshima's Shores

Today was a day of deep immersion into the artistic soul of Naoshima. From the tranquil grounds of Go'o Shrine to the minimalist spaces of the Lee Ufan Museum and the whimsical charm of the Yellow Pumpkin, every corner of this island whispered stories of creativity and reflection. It was a journey that stirred my soul, reminding me of the simple yet profound beauty that art brings to our lives.

My morning began with a delightful breakfast at Café Ippo. This quaint spot, with its unassuming exterior reminiscent of a traditional Japanese home, was a welcome haven. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee filled the air, mingling with the gentle chatter of locals and fellow travelers. I savored a vegan meal, a delightful change of pace, while observing the friendly couple who run the café. It felt like stepping into someone's home, a comforting start to a day filled with artistic exploration. I made a mental note to bring Mere and Sailosi here one day; they'd love the cozy atmosphere and the authentic Japanese hospitality.

Fueled and ready, I set off to explore the Art House Project, my first stop being the Go'o Shrine. Perched atop a hill, the shrine offered panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea, dotted with tiny islands. The air was fresh, carrying the scent of pine and sea salt. The Go'o Shrine itself is a fascinating blend of traditional Shinto architecture and contemporary art. As part of the Art House Project, it was reconstructed with artistic elements, transforming it into a work of art. I descended the transparent glass staircase leading to an underground chamber. The sunlight filtering through the glass created an ethereal play of light and shadow, a deeply moving experience. It was a space where tradition and modernity converged, inviting contemplation and reflection. I thought of my ancestors in Fiji, how they honored their gods in sacred spaces, and I felt a similar sense of reverence here.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

Next on my itinerary was the Lee Ufan Museum. A short bus ride took me to this haven of minimalist art, designed by the renowned architect Tadao Ando. The museum is a collaborative masterpiece between Ando and the contemporary artist Lee Ufan. Known for their minimalist styles, the museum blended concrete and stone to create an atmosphere of stillness and dynamism. The building was semi-underground, respecting the island's skyline and the stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea. Inside, I was captivated by Lee Ufan's sculptures and paintings, each piece a study in simplicity and balance. The museum invited introspection, a chance to connect with art on a deeper level. I found myself drawn to the interplay of natural materials and industrial elements, a conversation between the organic and the human-made. It was a stark contrast to the vibrant colors and bustling energy of my homeland, yet I found a sense of peace in its quietude.

For lunch, I ventured to Cin.na.mon, a charming café known for its Naoshima curry. The café's cozy interior, with its wooden walls and elegant décor, was a welcoming respite from the summer heat. I savored the curry, a flavorful blend of fresh seafood and aromatic spices. It was a culinary delight, a taste of the island's bounty. The staff were friendly and attentive, adding to the café's warm and inviting atmosphere. The curry was exceptional, featuring fresh, local seafood that burst with flavor, each bite a reminder of the island's maritime charm.

No visit to Naoshima is complete without seeing Yayoi Kusama's Yellow Pumpkin. As I approached the iconic sculpture, I was struck by its vibrant presence against the backdrop of the sea. The pumpkin, with its polka dots and cheerful hue, is a symbol of Naoshima's artistic spirit. I joined the queue of visitors eager to capture a photo with this beloved artwork. It was a moment of pure joy, a celebration of art and life. The Yellow Pumpkin stands as a testament to Naoshima's concept of Symbiosis of Nature, Architecture, and Art, a philosophy that resonated deeply with me. It was created for an art exhibition in 1994 and has become the island’s most well-known art installation.

As the sun began to set, I made my way to Issen for dinner. This restaurant, located in the Benesse House Museum, offered a menu that celebrated the seasonal ingredients of Setouchi. I indulged in a traditional Kaiseki dinner, a multi-course culinary journey that delighted my senses. Each dish was a work of art, a testament to the chef's skill and creativity. The restaurant's large windows provided stunning views of the Inland Sea and the surrounding modern art, creating an extraordinary dining experience. The Kaiseki cuisine was a revelation, a harmonious blend of flavors and textures that showcased the best of Japanese culinary traditions.

To cap off the evening, I decided to check out Bar SARU. Nestled in Miyanoura, this bar is known as the only one on the island that stays open late. The atmosphere was cozy and inviting, with a mix of locals and tourists mingling over drinks. I tried a Naoshima beer, a local brew that was both refreshing and flavorful. The music was a mix of reggae rhythms, adding to the bar's laid-back vibe. It was the perfect place to unwind after a day of artistic exploration. Chatting with fellow travelers, I learned about their own experiences on the island, sharing stories and laughter. It was a reminder of the connections we make through travel, the shared moments that enrich our lives.

As I walked back to My Lodge Naoshima, the stars twinkled above, casting a gentle glow on the island. The day had been a tapestry of art, culture, and culinary delights, a journey that had nourished my soul. I reflected on the beauty I had witnessed, the serenity I had experienced, and the connections I had made. Naoshima is more than just an art island; it's a place where creativity and nature converge, where tradition and modernity coexist, and where the human spirit finds solace and inspiration. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for this solo adventure, a chance to reconnect with myself and the world around me.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore more of the Art House Project, including Minamidera, and experience the Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu. I'm also looking forward to seeing the George Rickey sculpture. And perhaps a bit of shopping at the Art Island Center. I can't wait to see what new wonders await me on this enchanting island.

Naoshima has a way of seeping into your soul, leaving you with a sense of wonder and a renewed appreciation for the power of art. It's a place I know I'll return to, perhaps with Mere and Sailosi in tow, to share its magic with those I love.

Tonight, as I drift off to sleep, I carry with me the images of polka dots, minimalist sculptures, and tranquil shrines, a symphony of art and serenity that will linger long after I leave this enchanting island. Vinaka vakalevu, Naoshima, for a day of unforgettable beauty.