Family Adventure in Seydisfjordur, Iceland
Day 6: Chasing Puffins and Elves in Borgarfjörður Eystri
Discover the enchanting village of Borgarfjörður Eystri, Iceland, where puffins nest and elves roam, creating unforgettable family memories.
A Day of Mythical Proportions
Today was a day straight out of a fairy tale, a blend of adorable wildlife encounters and immersion in local folklore. We ventured to Borgarfjörður Eystri, a place that feels like it exists on the edge of the world, far removed from the hustle and bustle of Berlin. The promise of puffins and elves was too enticing to resist, and I'm happy to report that the reality exceeded our already high expectations.
Our day began, as it has every day here at Hótel Snæfell, with a hearty breakfast. I fueled up with some Skyr and rye bread, knowing we had a full day of exploring ahead. The drive to Borgarfjörður Eystri was nothing short of spectacular. The winding roads carved through dramatic fjords and volcanic valleys, offering views that constantly had us reaching for our cameras. Lena was especially captivated, pointing out the different geological formations and sharing her knowledge of Icelandic landscapes with Sofia. It’s moments like these that make our family trips so enriching.

Experience the charm of Seydisfjordur at Hótel Snæfell, where comfort meets local culture. Enjoy cozy accommodations, delicious cuisine, and breathtaking landscapes.
Our first stop was Borgarfjörður Eystri itself, a charming village that seems plucked from the pages of a storybook. Nestled against the coastline, the village exudes tranquility, with its colorful houses and the gentle lapping of waves against the harbor. We took a leisurely stroll, soaking in the atmosphere and snapping photos of the turf-roofed buildings. Sofia was particularly fascinated by the tiny details, like the flowers growing on the roofs and the intricate woodwork on the doors. We even spotted a few seals basking on the rocks offshore, much to Sofia's delight.
Of course, the main event of the day was our visit to Hafnarhólmi, the renowned puffin colony just outside the village. I had read that Borgarfjörður Eystri is one of the best places in Iceland to see puffins, and it certainly lived up to its reputation. As we approached the marina, the air was filled with the distinctive calls of seabirds. We followed the wooden pathways and platforms that have been carefully constructed to allow visitors to observe the puffins without disturbing their habitat. It was an incredible sight to behold.
To witness these birds in their natural habitat, interacting with each other and seemingly unbothered by our presence, was a truly humbling experience.
Thousands of puffins were nesting on the cliffs, their bright orange beaks and comical waddles making them endlessly entertaining to watch. Sofia was absolutely mesmerized, pointing and giggling as the puffins flew to and fro, carrying fish back to their burrows. Lena and I were equally captivated, marveling at the resilience and adaptability of these creatures. We spent hours simply observing them, losing ourselves in their world.
Hafnarhólmi is not just about puffins, though. It's a haven for bird enthusiasts in general. We spotted Kittiwakes, Fulmars, and Common Eiders, all coexisting in this vibrant ecosystem. The local community has done an excellent job of creating facilities that support safe and respectful birdwatching. There are shelters and observation decks that allow you to get up close and personal with the birds while minimizing your impact on their environment. It's a testament to Iceland's commitment to preserving its natural wonders.
After our puffin encounter, we decided to embrace the local folklore and explore the village's connection to the elfin world. Borgarfjörður Eystri is known for its elfin legends, and the most prominent landmark is Álfaborg, a charming hill believed to be the home of the Elf Queen. We took a short hike up Álfaborg, enjoying panoramic views of the fjord and the surrounding mountains. The trail was easy enough for Sofia to manage, and she was thrilled to imagine the elves living beneath the hill.
According to local tales, Álfaborg is not just a hill but a portal to another realm, a place where the veil between worlds is thin. I couldn't help but feel a sense of magic in the air as we stood on the summit, gazing out at the landscape. Whether you believe in elves or not, there's no denying that Borgarfjörður Eystri has a unique and enchanting quality.
For lunch, we stopped at the Nordic Restaurant, and I opted for the Arctic char, while Lena enjoyed a traditional Icelandic lamb soup. Sofia, predictably, chose the fish and chips, but she did try a bite of my char and declared it not bad. After lunch, we decided to explore some of the hiking trails around Borgarfjörður Eystri. I had read about the Víknaslóðir trails, a network of paths that wind through the rugged mountains and tranquil fjords of the region. We opted for a shorter loop, knowing that Sofia's little legs wouldn't be up for a multi-day trek. Even the shorter hike offered stunning views and a chance to immerse ourselves in the unspoiled beauty of East Iceland.
Discover the essence of Icelandic cuisine at Nordic Restaurant in Seydisfjordur - where local flavors meet breathtaking views.
As we hiked, I couldn't help but reflect on how much I appreciate these opportunities to connect with nature. Living in Berlin, it's easy to get caught up in the urban grind, to lose sight of the simple pleasures of life. But here in Iceland, surrounded by breathtaking landscapes and abundant wildlife, I feel a sense of peace and perspective that is hard to find elsewhere. It's a reminder that there's more to life than work and deadlines, that it's important to slow down and appreciate the world around us.
We learned that numerous marked trails surround the village at Borgarfjörður Eystri, with one leading to Kúahjalli and Hrafnatindur. This trail follows the banks of the Bakkaá river up to Hrafnatindur mountain, offering a remarkable view over the fjord. It continues to Kúahjalli and down again to Geitavík where a monument dedicated to the renowned Icelandic painter Jóhannes S. Kjarval stands. The hike should take about 3 hours with 350 m elevation, but with Sofia, we opted for a shorter, easier path.
Before dinner, we stopped by Skaftfell Bistro for a quick drink. It was a cozy little spot, perfect for warming up after a day of hiking. Lena and I enjoyed a local beer while Sofia sipped on a hot chocolate. We chatted with the bartender, who shared some interesting stories about the village and its history. It's always fascinating to hear these personal anecdotes, to get a glimpse into the lives of the people who call this place home.
Discover the culinary delights of Skaftfell Bistro in Seyðisfjörður, where local flavors meet a cozy atmosphere in the heart of Iceland.
For dinner, we chose Tehúsið - Café, Bar, Guesthouse & Hostel. The food was simple but delicious, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. We shared stories from our day, laughing about Sofia's fascination with the puffins and Lena's attempts to identify every plant and rock we encountered on our hike. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day.
Experience the heart of Icelandic hospitality at Tehúsið - Café, Bar & Guesthouse in Egilsstaðir.
As I sit here now, writing this blog post in our cozy room at Hótel Snæfell, I feel a deep sense of gratitude. Today was a reminder of the beauty and wonder that exists in the world, and of the importance of sharing these experiences with the people you love. Tomorrow, we are planning to explore Haífoss and Gufu waterfall, and I can't wait to see what adventures await us. I'm also hoping we can squeeze in a visit to Blóðberg, a local shop that Lena has been wanting to check out. Until then, I'll cherish the memories of today, the puffins, the elves, and the magic of Borgarfjörður Eystri.
The beauty of the Eastfjords continues to captivate us, and I am excited to see what tomorrow brings as we continue our family adventure across Iceland. One thing is for sure, though, I'm making sure to pack sunscreen and extra memory cards this time!
Discover the magic of Seydisfjordur with family-friendly adventures, stunning fjords, and cultural experiences in Iceland's hidden gem.
Meet this Featured Explorer
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Occupation: Software Engineer at a Berlin-based tech startup
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Country: Germany
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Age: 37
Hey everyone, I'm Jose! I'm a software engineer living in Berlin with my amazing wife, Lena, and our daughter, Sofia. Originally from New Mexico, I've always had a passion for exploring new places and immersing myself in different cultures. This blog is where I share my travel experiences, offering tips and insights for fellow travelers who are looking for authentic and sustainable adventures. Whether it's hiking through the Brandenburg countryside or discovering hidden gems in Berlin's art scene, I'm always on the lookout for new stories to tell. Join me as I navigate the world, one adventure at a time!
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