Solo Cultural Exploration in Kanazawa

A Day of Elegance and History

Today was a deep dive into the heart of Kanazawa's cultural heritage. From exploring the refined beauty of a lord's villa to stepping back in time in a geisha house and indulging in the city's culinary scene, it was a day of sensory delights and historical immersion.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Kanazawa Note Dining Bar. It was a great way to start the day, fueling up for the adventures ahead. The modern Izakaya setting was a delightful introduction to the local culinary scene.

My first stop was Seison-kaku, a villa built in 1863 by the 13th lord of the Maeda family for his mother. As a historical building restoration consultant, I was particularly excited to see the blend of traditional Japanese design with Western influences that were emerging at the end of the Edo period. The villa is located on the edge of Kenrokuen Garden, and it was built so that the lord's mother could enjoy views of Kenrokuen. The villa itself is an exquisite mansion that showcases the fine techniques used in its inner pillars and walls. The openwork carvings of flowers and birds and the coffered ceiling in the guest chamber were particularly impressive. It's fascinating to see how the Maeda family's status was reflected in every detail.

Wandering through Seison-kaku, I was struck by the serenity of the space. The way the light filtered through the shoji screens, the gentle sound of water in the gardens – it all created an atmosphere of tranquility and contemplation. The villa was designed so that the sound of running water can be heard in the bedroom, which was meant to soothe the residents as they slept. I could easily imagine Lady Takako, the lord's mother, enjoying her retirement in this beautiful home. The villa also functions as a museum, displaying dolls, kimonos, and paintings. The villa is replete with Edo Period arts and crafts that the Maeda family commissioned to have made.


Explore Seison-kaku, a historic gem in Kanazawa, where traditional architecture meets serene gardens, embodying Japan's rich cultural heritage.

History is not a burden on the memory but an illumination of the soul.

After immersing myself in the refined world of Seison-kaku, I ventured into the Higashi Chaya District to visit the Geisha House Shima. This well-preserved geisha house, built in 1820, offered a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the geishas who once entertained wealthy merchants and nobility here. Ochaya Shima was built in 1820 as part of the Higashi Kuruwa, an entertainment district. The word “chaya” means tea house and Ochaya Shima was one of many “chaya” built in this area. In fact these “tea houses”, served sake rice wine more than tea, and were mainly places where wealthy customers would be entertained by geisha with music, dance, poetry and drinking games.

As I wandered through the rooms, I could almost hear the echoes of laughter and music, imagining the geishas gracefully moving through the house, entertaining their guests. The displays of accessories, tea ceremony utensils, and musical instruments added to the immersive experience. It's remarkable how much of the original structure and atmosphere has been preserved. The house has two levels, and features guest rooms on the upper floor, and the owner's living area on the ground floor with an internal garden. There is also a dressing room for the geisha on the ground floor. Today the interiors appear much as they did when the house was first built with lacquered wooden surfaces and elegant furnishings.


Discover the charm and history of Kanazawa at Geisha House Shima, a beautifully preserved heritage site showcasing Japan's geisha culture.

Exploring the Higashi Chaya District, with its preserved wooden teahouses, was like stepping back in time. It's easy to imagine the area's gorgeous culture and feel the history. The tea houses feature a specially constructed style, called Chaya-Kenchiku. The geisha house normally doesn't have a kitchen; the foods were delivery service. The payment was a monthly payment, so at the checkout, the owner recorded the customer's name and who entertain him when the customer left.

For lunch, I had a reservation at Kifune, a Michelin-starred restaurant known for its innovative Kaiseki cuisine. The restaurant is located within walking distance from the Higashi Chayagai district, in a renovated old private home built in the Taisho era. The master chef, Kiyokazu Nakagawa, is known for his innovative approach to cooking. With its authentic Japanese atmosphere, Kifune preserves the vestiges of the halcyon days of Kanazawa. I was really looking forward to this meal, and it did not disappoint.

The multi-course Kaiseki meal was a perfect balance of taste, texture, and visual appeal, reflecting the chef's artistic approach to cooking. Each dish was a work of art, showcasing the freshest local ingredients and the chef's impeccable attention to detail. The chef combines traditional and contemporary cooking techniques, resulting in a unique dining experience. It was a truly unforgettable culinary experience.


Experience exquisite Kaiseki dining at Kifune in Kanazawa – where tradition meets flavor in every beautifully crafted dish.

In the evening, I decided to check out Oriental Brewing, a local craft beer spot. Located in an old chaya building in the Higashiyama district, the brewery has a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. I sampled a couple of their beers and enjoyed a light snack. The owner, Tanaka-san, came upon the idea of opening up his own brew pub a few years ago while travelling various countries, and noted that Kanazawa lacked what other cities had.

It was interesting to see the brewing equipment at the back of the bar. The bar offers a wide selection of Japanese beers, and the food menu features pizza and small plates. The staff were friendly and welcoming, and I enjoyed chatting with them about the local beer scene. It's a great place to relax and unwind after a day of exploring. There are 12 seats at tables dotted along the wall with 10 counter seats also available. The whole place is non-smoking and there is also no table charge.


Explore Oriental Brewing: A Craft Beer Paradise in Kanazawa with Unique Brews, Delicious Pizzas, and a Cozy Atmosphere.

For dinner, I had made a reservation at Umi & Tsuchi, a restaurant that focuses on pairing Japanese wines with innovative fusion cuisine. The restaurant is located along the river in Katamachi. The chef, Sho Tanaka, creates dishes that draw influences from Italian, Japanese, and French cuisine.

The experience was exceptional from start to finish. Each plate was beautifully plated and tasted equally delicious. The wine pairings were perfect complements to the dishes, and the staff were knowledgeable and passionate about their craft. I highly recommend this intimate restaurant for a special occasion or a relaxed dinner. The restaurant offers a wonderful omakase experience. I was celebrating my solo journey, and the staff made me feel welcome and appreciated.


Discover exquisite Kaiseki dining at Umi & Tsuchi, where Kyoto's culinary traditions meet modern elegance in Kanazawa.

As I reflect on today, I'm struck by the depth of Kanazawa's cultural heritage. The city seamlessly blends history and modernity, offering a unique and enriching experience for travelers like myself. The blend of tradition and innovation is what makes Kanazawa so special. Tomorrow, I plan to explore Shiroyama Tenshukaku Observation Deck and the Kanazawa City Ashigaru Museum. I'm also looking forward to trying more of Kanazawa's culinary delights. Good night, Kanazawa!

There are also various events taking place in Kanazawa. TK from Ling Tosite Sigure is performing at Eight Hall. JJJ was scheduled to perform at REDSUN, but it was canceled. There is also the Kanazawa Coffee Festival.