Solo Art Adventure on Naoshima Island

Day 1: Diving Deep into Naoshima's Artistic Heart

Today marked the beginning of my solo art adventure on Naoshima Island, and I couldn't have asked for a more inspiring start. Leaving behind the familiar streets of Berlin for this haven of creativity was a leap, but one I felt completely ready for. The blend of art, architecture, and nature here is already proving to be a balm for the soul.

My journey to Naoshima was smooth, though lengthy. The flight from Berlin to Tokyo was followed by a train to Okayama, and finally, a ferry to the island. The ferry ride offered my first glimpse of the Seto Inland Sea, dotted with islands that seemed to float on the horizon. The air was crisp, carrying the scent of the sea, a welcome change from the city air I’m used to. The weather in March is moderately chilly, with a high of 56°F (13°C) and a low of 41°F (5°C), but the sun was shining.

My first stop was My Lodge Naoshima, my accommodation for the next two weeks. It’s a cozy, budget-friendly place, perfect for immersing myself in the local culture.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.

After dropping off my luggage, I headed straight for the Benesse House Museum, eager to experience the art that Naoshima is famous for.


Discover the enchanting Benesse House Museum on Naoshima Island, where contemporary art meets stunning natural beauty in a harmonious setting.

The museum itself is a work of art, designed by the renowned architect Tadao Ando. His signature concrete structures blend seamlessly with the natural landscape, creating a unique environment where art and nature coexist. The museum's collection is impressive, featuring works by renowned artists from around the world. I was particularly struck by the pieces by Hiroshi Sugimoto, which play with depth and perspective in a way that challenges your perception.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

Wandering through the museum, I was struck by how the art interacted with the natural light filtering through the building's many windows and open spaces. It created a dynamic viewing experience, where the art seemed to change with the passing of time. The outdoor sculptures were equally impressive, set against the backdrop of the sea and the surrounding hills. I spent hours exploring the grounds, discovering new perspectives and hidden corners.

After the Benesse House Museum, I made my way to the Chichu Art Museum. Getting there involved a bus ride and a short walk, allowing me to soak in more of the island's atmosphere.


Explore the Chichu Art Museum on Naoshima Island, where modern art meets nature in a breathtaking architectural masterpiece.

The Chichu Art Museum is another masterpiece by Tadao Ando, built mostly underground to minimize its impact on the landscape. The museum houses a small but significant collection of works by Claude Monet, James Turrell, and Walter De Maria.

Monet's Water Lilies were a revelation. The way the natural light filtered through the museum's skylights, illuminating the paintings, created an ethereal atmosphere. It was as if I were standing in Monet's garden, surrounded by his beloved water lilies. James Turrell's light installations were equally mesmerizing, playing with perception and creating a sense of wonder. Walter De Maria's Time/Timeless/No Time was a powerful and thought-provoking piece, inviting contemplation on the nature of time and existence. Photography was not allowed inside the museum, encouraging a deeper engagement with the art.

For breakfast, I enjoyed a delightful meal at APRON CAFE. The cafe had a homely feel, with simple furniture and a warm atmosphere.


Experience culinary delights amidst the artistic beauty of Naoshima at APRON CAFE - where every meal tells a story.

I opted for the seasonal set lunch, which featured local ingredients and was designed by a certified nutritionist. It was a healthy and delicious way to start the day.

Lunch was at the Terrace Restaurant inside Benesse House. With its large windows and high ceiling, the restaurant offered stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea.


Experience fine dining at Terrace Restaurant in Naoshima—where art meets exquisite cuisine amidst breathtaking views.

The French-inspired cuisine was made with local produce, highlighting the flavors of the region. It was a perfect spot to relax and refuel after a morning of art exploration. Benesse House also has a shop, where I picked up a few postcards to send to Lena and the family.

As the day drew to a close, I headed to Perma_Naoshima for dinner. This ramen restaurant is known for its authentic flavors and fresh, local ingredients.


Experience authentic ramen at Perma_Naoshima, where culinary tradition meets the artistic charm of Naoshima Island.

The cozy atmosphere was perfect for unwinding after a long day of sightseeing. I ordered the classic shoyu ramen, which was rich and flavorful. It was a comforting and satisfying meal, a perfect end to a perfect day. I was pleasantly surprised they had vegetarian options, a pleasant surprise.

I’m already looking forward to tomorrow, when I plan to explore the Art House Project: Minamidera and the Lee Ufan Museum. I’m also planning on having breakfast at Café Ippo, lunch at Chikurin, and dinner at Ebisukamo. Maybe I'll even have a drink at Bar SARU.

Tonight, though, I'm content to reflect on the beauty and inspiration that Naoshima has already offered. It's a place where art, nature, and architecture come together in a harmonious whole, creating an experience that is both enriching and transformative. I'm grateful for the opportunity to be here, to immerse myself in this unique environment, and to share my experiences with you.

The island is known for its safety, so I took an evening stroll. Even though it was dark, I felt safe and at peace. The air was cool and the stars were out, creating a magical atmosphere. I can already tell that this trip will be one to remember.

Before drifting off to sleep, I sketched a few of the pieces that resonated with me most today. It's a way of solidifying the experience, of making it a part of me. I encourage anyone seeking inspiration and tranquility to consider a journey to Naoshima. It’s more than just an art island; it’s an experience that touches the soul.

Tomorrow I hope to rent a bike. I have heard it will make getting around the island much easier. I didn’t realize how hilly the island would be.

Until tomorrow,
José

P.S. I almost forgot! I saw the Yellow Pumpkin today! It's even more impressive in person than in the pictures. I will try to see it at sunrise tomorrow, as I heard that is the best time to see it.

P.P.S. I forgot my sunscreen and power adapter! I will need to buy some tomorrow. I am glad I remembered my camera, sketchbook, comfortable walking shoes, travel guidebook, and reusable water bottle.