Solo Art Adventure on Naoshima Island

Miyanoura's Unexpected Charms

Today was all about diving deeper into Naoshima, beyond the famous pumpkins and museums. I wanted to experience the island's everyday life, so I dedicated the day to exploring Miyanoura, the main port town. It turned out to be a treasure trove of art and local flavors, offering a different perspective on this unique island.

My day started with a much-needed caffeine fix at Akaito Coffee. It's a cozy little café not far from the ferry terminal. The aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans was heavenly. Apparently, they roast their own beans in-house, which explains the rich, smooth flavor of my latte. It was the perfect way to kickstart a day of exploration. I also grabbed a quick bite – egg and cheese on toast. The cafe had a charming, homey vibe, and I could easily see myself spending hours there with a book and a warm drink. Apparently, Akaito Coffee also has a collection of books and locally crafted goods. I made a mental note to return before I leave Naoshima.


Discover Akaito Coffee on Naoshima Island, where art, literature, and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee create an unforgettable experience.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

Next up was Miyanoura Gallery 6. Housed in a renovated pachinko parlor, the gallery space itself was interesting. Miyanoura Gallery 6 currently houses the Setouchi Archive project. The project changes with time but revolves around archiving Naoshima’s history and culture. It was fascinating to see the history and culture of Naoshima. Although some of the displays required Japanese reading skills, the pictures of old Naoshima were still fascinating.


Discover the intersection of art and nature at Miyanoura Gallery 6, a serene destination on Naoshima Island showcasing contemporary masterpieces.

After the gallery, I decided to seek out the Shipyard Works by Shinro Ohtake. I stumbled upon it near the Benesse House Museum. The exterior was full of small details. It was an accumulation that created an improbable reality. I could have spent hours trying to find them all. It was something else entirely, a vibrant, chaotic explosion of color and texture that completely captivated my attention. I'm so glad I took the time to explore beyond the main attractions; these unexpected encounters are what make traveling so rewarding.


Experience the transformative power of art at Shipyard Works by Shinro Otake, a unique exhibit blending creativity with Naoshima's serene coastal beauty.

For lunch, I ventured into NaoPAM/ Shima-Shoku-Do Miyanda. I was ready to try some local seafood. The restaurant had a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. The menu changes daily, offering a variety of fresh fish set meals. I opted for the grilled fish set, featuring Spanish mackerel. It was simple, yet incredibly flavorful, highlighting the freshness of the ingredients. It was easily one of the best meals I’ve had so far on this trip. Dining at NaoPAM felt like stepping into a local family's dining room.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at NaoPAM in Naoshima - where tradition meets flavor in a cozy atmosphere.

As the afternoon progressed, I found myself drawn to the Naoshima Yokocho for a pre-dinner drink. The portions are a bit small but the lunch set menu prices are cheap. It was refreshing to eat here and relax before exploring the island. There weren't many people at the restaurant. The miso grilled mackerel had a nice flavor and the rice was filling. Staff were quick and accommodating.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Naoshima Yokocho, an izakaya that captures the essence of Naoshima's culinary culture amidst stunning art and nature.

Dinner was at Raumen Tsumu, a local ramen shop recommended by several people I met during the day. It's a small, unassuming place, popular with the locals. I ordered their signature ramen, and it was exactly what I needed after a long day of walking. The broth was rich and savory, the noodles were perfectly cooked, and the toppings were fresh and flavorful. It was comfort food at its finest, a perfect end to a perfect day.


Discover the authentic taste of Japan with delicious ramen at Raumen Tsumu on Naoshima Island.

I was ready to call it a night, but I remembered someone mentioning Naoshima Yokocho, a local bar with a lively atmosphere. I decided to check it out, and I'm so glad I did. The bar was small and intimate, with a mix of locals and tourists. The bartender was friendly and welcoming, and the drinks were reasonably priced. I ended up chatting with a couple of locals, learning more about the island's history and culture. It was a great way to unwind and connect with the community.

Today was a reminder that the best travel experiences often come from venturing off the beaten path. Miyanoura may not be as famous as other parts of Naoshima, but it has its own unique charm and character. It's a place where art and local life intertwine, creating a vibrant and authentic atmosphere. As I walked back to My Lodge Naoshima under the starlit sky, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. It was a day of unexpected discoveries, delicious food, and genuine connections. These are the moments that make traveling so worthwhile.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore more of Naoshima's outdoor art installations, including the George Rickey Three Squares Vertical Diagonal and Drink a Cup of Tea. I'm also looking forward to trying some new restaurants, like maimai for breakfast, Luke's Table for lunch, and Restaurant EN for dinner. And of course, I'll be sure to visit the Chichu Art Museum Ticket Center to secure my entry for another day filled with artistic inspiration. I'm also mindful of the fact that I'll need to buy sunscreen and a power adapter, as I forgot to pack them. It’s always something, isn’t it?

Naoshima continues to surprise and delight me at every turn. It's a place that stimulates the senses, challenges the mind, and nourishes the soul. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

I am really enjoying experiencing the art scene here on Naoshima. It is a far cry from my usual work as a Software Developer back in Berlin. Lena would love this place. Maybe I can convince her to come back with me sometime.