Pilgrimage Adventure: Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Reaching for the Divine at Kumano Nachi Taisha

Today, Lena and I embarked on what felt like a true ascent, both physically and spiritually, as we explored the revered Kumano Nachi Taisha. The air was thick with the scent of cedar, and the sounds of nature echoed through the mountains, creating an atmosphere of profound tranquility. I was eager to experience one of the most iconic sites along the Kumano Kodo.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Watarase onsen cafe. Fuelled up, we set off to explore the day's attractions.

The journey to Kumano Nachi Taisha was an experience in itself. As we ascended Nachi Mountain, the views became increasingly breathtaking. The fresh air and the serene environment were a welcome change from the bustling city life of Berlin. It was a reminder of the simple, yet profound beauty of nature. The shrine is located about 350 meters above sea level on Nachi Mountain.

Upon arriving at Kumano Nachi Taisha, I was immediately struck by its grandeur. The vibrant vermilion-lacquered structures stood in stark contrast to the lush greenery of the surrounding forest. The shrine is one of the three Kumano Sanzan, and a major destination for pilgrims. The intricate details of the architecture and the meticulous care given to the grounds were a testament to the deep respect and reverence this site commands. Lena, with her architect's eye, was particularly fascinated by the traditional designs and the seamless integration of the buildings with the natural landscape.

We took our time exploring the main hall, where the 12 deities of Kumano are enshrined. The spiritual energy was palpable, and I found myself reflecting on the journey that had brought us here. It was a moment of quiet contemplation, a chance to connect with something larger than myself. I lit a candle and offered a prayer for continued strength and clarity on our pilgrimage.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step, but the journey to enlightenment begins with a willingness to look inward.

Next, we ventured into the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. Inside, we were treated to a fascinating glimpse into the shrine's history and religious significance. Among the many artifacts, the Nachisan Shrine Mandala stood out, a vibrant and well-preserved depiction of the shrine and its cosmology. It was incredible to see something so old still retaining its vivid colors and intricate details. Lena was captivated by the collection of mirrors once used in the Fire Festival, each one a symbol of Amaterasu-no-Okami, the sun goddess. The treasure hall also contained an extensive collection of chronicles and manuscripts, a bronze seal, and a wooden printing block. The printing block was used to make Karasu, paper amulets that featured 72 crows spelling out the words Priceless Seal of Nachi Waterfall in Chinese characters.

Of course, no visit to Kumano Nachi Taisha would be complete without witnessing the majestic Nachi Falls. As we approached the falls, the air grew cooler and the roar of the cascading water filled our ears. At 133 meters, it is the tallest waterfall in Japan, and it is easy to see why it has been a site of spiritual significance for centuries. The sight of the water plunging down the mountainside was simply awe-inspiring, a raw display of nature's power and beauty. We spent a long time simply watching the falls, feeling the spray on our faces and listening to the thunderous sound. It was a truly unforgettable experience.

For lunch, we visited Takehara, a local restaurant renowned for its tuna dishes. Being close to the Katsuura fishing port, which boasts the largest catch of fresh tuna in Japan, I knew we were in for a treat. I opted for the Meibutsu Maguro Teishoku, the restaurant's specialty, while Lena chose a selection of sashimi. The tuna was incredibly fresh and flavorful, melting in my mouth with each bite. It was a culinary experience that perfectly complemented the spiritual journey of the day. The restaurant is a small, counter-style eatery that is very popular with locals and tourists alike.

As the day drew to a close, we decided to unwind at the Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. Although primarily a guesthouse, the winery offers a unique experience with its Italian culinary feast and countryside setting. We enjoyed a glass of their homemade wine while soaking in the panoramic views of the mountains and Tanabe Bay. The owner, Giovanni, is an Italian chef who came to Japan in 2013 and opened his dream guesthouse in 2019. His restaurant, Dal Chef's Table, was even listed in the Michelin Guide in 2022. It was the perfect way to relax and reflect on the day's adventures.

For dinner, we dined at Akihei, a restaurant recommended for its authentic Japanese cuisine and traditional setting. Founded in 1870, the restaurant has a serene, Japanese-style interior. The meal was a delightful experience, with each dish showcasing the local flavors and culinary traditions of the region. It was a fitting end to a day filled with spiritual and cultural exploration.

Reflecting on today, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and wonder. Kumano Nachi Taisha is more than just a beautiful shrine; it is a place of deep spiritual significance, a testament to the enduring power of nature and faith. The hike, the shrine, the falls, and the food all combined to create an experience that I will cherish for a long time. As we prepare for tomorrow's journey to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kamikura Shrine, I feel a renewed sense of purpose and excitement for what lies ahead. Tomorrow, we plan to have breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, lunch at Onigajō cliff Center and dinner at Kumagoro. We might even stop by the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu shop [Day 5 Itinerary].

The blend of Shinto and Buddhist traditions at Kumano Nachi Taisha is a testament to Japan's unique cultural heritage. The shrine and the neighboring Seigantoji Temple were once joined together, offering a place of worship to followers of both religions. Although they were separated in the 19th century, they remain connected, representing harmony in the presence of nature.

As we continue our pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo, I am constantly reminded of the importance of slowing down, of connecting with nature, and of seeking meaning in the world around us. It is a journey that is transforming me in ways I could never have imagined.