Pilgrimage Adventure: Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

A Day of Sacred Waters and Shrine Visits

Today was a day of profound reflection and immersion in the spiritual heart of Kumano Kodo. From the ancient healing waters of Tsubo-yu to the serene Inabaneoji Shrine, every moment felt like a step deeper into Japan's rich cultural tapestry. I’m excited to share the day's experiences, filled with moments of peace, culinary exploration, and a touch of local charm.



The day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

The cafe had a cozy, inviting atmosphere, and it was the perfect way to fuel up for the day's adventures. Lena and I enjoyed a traditional English breakfast, which was a delightful surprise. Sipping on hot coffee while overlooking the serene landscape, I felt a sense of calm wash over me, preparing me for the spiritual journey ahead.


Our first stop was Tsubo-yu, a UNESCO World Heritage site and Japan's oldest hot spring.


Experience the serene beauty of Tsubo-yu, a historic onsen in Tanabe, Wakayama, known for its mineral-rich waters and tranquil atmosphere.

Nestled in the quaint village of Yunomine Onsen, this tiny bathhouse is steeped in legend and history. Only two people can bathe at a time, making it an intimate and unique experience. We waited patiently for our turn, and when it came, stepping into the small stone hut felt like entering another world.


The water, known for its healing properties, changed color several times during our brief soak—from clear to a milky white. It was surreal to think that emperors and monks had sought solace in these very waters centuries ago. The connection to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route was palpable, a reminder of the countless travelers who had cleansed themselves here, both physically and spiritually.

Bathing in Tsubo-yu is more than just a soak; it's a step back in time, a communion with centuries of pilgrims seeking solace and healing.

After our rejuvenating bath, we visited the nearby Inabaneoji Shrine.


Experience the serene beauty and cultural significance of Inabaneoji Shrine, a must-visit Shinto site in the lush landscapes of Kamitonda.

The shrine exuded tranquility, surrounded by towering trees and the gentle sounds of nature. The architecture was striking, reflecting the artistry and dedication that went into its construction. Lena, with her architect's eye, was particularly fascinated by the intricate details and the seamless integration of the shrine with its natural surroundings.


We took our time exploring the grounds, offering a prayer for continued safe travels and reflecting on the journey so far. The peaceful atmosphere was a welcome contrast to the hustle and bustle of Berlin, and I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience such a serene place.


For lunch, we stopped at Yorozuya Eatery.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

a local gem known for its authentic cuisine. I opted for a traditional obanzai set, while Lena chose the charcoal-grilled red chicken. Each dish was a burst of flavor, made with fresh, local ingredients. The cozy ambiance of the eatery added to the experience, making it feel like we were dining in someone's home.


As the afternoon waned, we made our way to Kumano Winery Guest House / Dal Chef’s Table.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

for a pre-dinner drink. This unique spot combines a winery with a guest house, offering an eclectic mix of Japanese countryside and Italian hospitality. We sampled some of their fine wines, enjoying the peaceful surroundings and the company of fellow travelers.


The guest house is located about 20 minutes walk from Nejiki-no-Sugi, along the Shiomi-toge route of the Kumano Kodo. I learned that Giovanni dal Bosco, known as Da-ru, came to Japan in 2013 and eventually opened his dream guest house. Dal Chef's Table, the restaurant at the guest house, was even listed in The Michelin Guide in 2022.


For dinner, we indulged in a memorable meal at Akihei.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

a restaurant with a long history in Tanabe. Founded in the early Meiji period, Akihei offers traditional Japanese cuisine like kaiseki, sushi, sashimi, and hot pot. The pure Japanese-style interior created a calm atmosphere, and we enjoyed a selection of fresh sushi and flavorful izakaya dishes. The TanTan Nabe was particularly impressive, a perfect blend of flavors and textures.


After dinner, we decided to explore the local nightlife and ended up at Kumano Winery Guest House / Dal Chef’s Table again, this time to enjoy the bar atmosphere. The place had a warm, inviting vibe, and we spent the evening chatting with locals and fellow travelers, sharing stories and laughter. Lena even tried her hand at a local instrument, much to the amusement of everyone around.


As the day drew to a close, I reflected on the incredible experiences we had. From the spiritual cleansing at Tsubo-yu to the culinary delights at Akihei, every moment was a testament to the beauty and richness of Kumano Kodo. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this remarkable region with my wife, Lena, by my side.


Tomorrow, we plan to visit Oyunohara, the site of the original Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine, and the Fushiogami Teahouse. I'm also hoping to pick up a few souvenirs at the Kumano Kodo Information Center. It will be another day of exploration and discovery, and I can't wait to see what adventures await.


Back at our accommodation, I couldn't help but think about how much this journey has changed me already. Being away from the familiar comforts of Berlin, and indeed, even the familiar cultures of Europe, has opened my eyes to a different way of life. I find myself appreciating the simple things – a warm bath, a delicious meal, a shared laugh – in a way I never did before. Perhaps that's the true essence of a pilgrimage: not just the physical journey, but the internal transformation that occurs along the way.


As I prepared for bed, Lena and I discussed our favorite moments of the day. She was particularly moved by the serenity of Inabaneoji Shrine, while I was captivated by the mystical waters of Tsubo-yu. We both agreed that the culinary experiences were a highlight, and we looked forward to more gastronomic adventures in the days to come.


I also spent some time reviewing the photos I had taken throughout the day. Each image was a snapshot of a precious memory, a moment in time that I wanted to preserve forever. From the vibrant colors of the local markets to the serene landscapes of the Kumano Kodo trails, every photo told a story of our incredible journey.


Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note to purchase sunscreen and a portable water bottle. I had forgotten these essentials, and the sun and the long walks were taking their toll. It was a small oversight, but a reminder that even on a spiritual journey, practical considerations are important.


As I closed my eyes, I felt a deep sense of contentment. Today had been a perfect blend of spiritual exploration, culinary delights, and cultural immersion. I was grateful for the opportunity to experience the beauty and richness of Kumano Kodo, and I looked forward to another day of adventure and discovery.


This pilgrimage is more than just a vacation; it's a chance to reconnect with myself, with Lena, and with the world around us. It's a reminder that life is a journey, not a destination, and that every step along the way is an opportunity to learn, grow, and appreciate the beauty of the present moment. And with that thought, I drifted off to sleep, dreaming of the adventures that awaited us tomorrow.