Family Adventure in Torres del Paine National Park
Day 12: Conquering the French Valley: A Day of Breathtaking Views and Patagonian Flavors
Hike to Mirador Valle del Francés, savor Patagonian cuisine, and unwind at Pampa Lodge in Torres del Paine's stunning landscapes.
A Day Among Giants
Today was nothing short of spectacular, a true immersion into the heart of Torres del Paine. The raw beauty of this park continues to amaze me, and I'm so glad I get to share these experiences with my family. It was a day of challenging hikes, rewarding views, and delicious food, all wrapped up in the crisp Patagonian air.
Our day began, as many do here, with an early start. We fueled up at Restaurant Pehoe Barbecue, drawn in by the promise of hearty Patagonian fare. I opted for a classic: scrambled eggs with a side of toast. Mateo, of course, wanted pancakes, and Klara chose a yogurt parfait with fresh fruit. The views of the Paine Massif from the restaurant were simply stunning, a perfect backdrop to start our day.
With our bellies full, we set off for the highlight of the day: Mirador Valle del Francés. The trailhead was about an hour's drive from our campsite, and the anticipation grew with every kilometer. The drive itself was beautiful, with glimpses of turquoise lakes and snow-capped peaks along the way. Once we arrived, we laced up our hiking boots and began our ascent.
Hike to the heart of Torres del Paine for unparalleled views of glaciers, granite peaks, and the stunning French Valley.
The trail started gently enough, winding through a forest of Lenga trees, their leaves just beginning to turn golden with the approaching autumn. The air was crisp and clean, filled with the scent of pine and damp earth. Mateo, full of energy, scampered ahead, his laughter echoing through the trees. Klara and I followed at a more leisurely pace, enjoying the tranquility of the forest.
As we climbed higher, the trees began to thin, and the views started to open up. We caught glimpses of the turquoise lakes below and the towering granite walls of the French Valley ahead. The trail became steeper and rockier, and we had to take a few breaks to catch our breath. Mateo, surprisingly, kept up the pace, his little legs pumping with determination. I was so proud of his resilience. I really need to remember to pack that portable charger next time; capturing these moments is crucial, and my phone battery is always the first to go!
The mountains are calling and I must go.After a couple of hours of steady climbing, we finally reached the Mirador Valle del Francés. And wow, it was worth every step. The view was simply breathtaking. We were surrounded by towering granite peaks, hanging glaciers, and cascading waterfalls. The Paine Grande massif loomed in front of us, its snow-capped peaks piercing the sky. To our left, the French Glacier clung to the mountainside, its blue ice shimmering in the sunlight. And below us, the valley stretched out in a tapestry of green and gold, dotted with turquoise lakes and meandering rivers.
We spent a good hour at the mirador, soaking in the view and taking photos. Mateo, of course, wanted to explore, so I let him clamber around on the rocks while Klara and I simply sat and marveled at the scenery. It’s moments like these that make all the challenges of traveling with a family worthwhile. Seeing the wonder in Mateo's eyes as he takes in this landscape reminds me of why we embarked on this adventure in the first place.
As we started our descent, the weather took a turn. The wind picked up, and the clouds began to gather, obscuring the peaks. Soon, it started to rain, a cold, driving rain that soaked us to the bone. We quickened our pace, eager to get back to the shelter of the forest. The hike down was slippery and challenging, but we made it safely, albeit a bit wet and bedraggled.
By the time we reached the trailhead, we were all ravenous. We drove to Hostería El Pionero, a charming restaurant located near the entrance to the park. We stepped inside, and were immediately enveloped in a warm and inviting atmosphere. The restaurant was cozy and rustic, with wooden beams, stone walls, and a crackling fireplace. We were seated at a table by the window, with a view of the surrounding mountains.

Experience comfort and local charm at Hostería El Pionero near Torres del Paine – your gateway to stunning landscapes and unforgettable adventures.
I ordered a hearty plate of lamb stew, a Patagonian specialty, while Klara opted for a vegetarian empanada. Mateo, predictably, chose a plate of french fries. The food was delicious, and we devoured it in silence, savoring every bite. The lamb was tender and flavorful, and the empanada was filled with a medley of fresh vegetables. It was the perfect fuel to replenish our energy after a long day of hiking.
After lunch, we decided to take a detour to Silla del Diablo, a unique rock formation located a short drive from the restaurant. According to local legend, the rock is shaped like a devil's chair and is said to be haunted. Mateo was fascinated by the story, and we spent some time exploring the area, taking photos, and imagining what it must have been like to live in this remote and wild place.
Discover the breathtaking Silla del Diablo, a striking natural monument in Patagonia, perfect for hiking and enjoying stunning landscapes near Natales.
We learned about the legend of a beautiful young girl and her dog, Pol, who were tricked by the devil disguised as a handsome man. The girl was lured into the rock formation and disappeared forever, while her faithful dog waited for her until he died of hunger. It's a somber tale, but it adds a layer of mystique to this already intriguing place. The rock formation itself is quite impressive, and the views from the top are stunning.
As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Pampa Lodge- Refugio- Quincho y Caballos, where we decided to unwind after our long day. Although it's listed as a hostel, it has a contemporary hotel feel, and the views are incredible. We settled into the bar area, and I ordered a well-deserved Chilean beer. Klara chose a glass of local wine, and Mateo sipped on a juice box. The atmosphere was relaxed and convivial, and we chatted with other travelers, sharing stories of our adventures in Patagonia.

Discover the natural beauty of Torres de Paine at Pampa Lodge, where comfort meets adventure in the heart of Patagonia.
For dinner, we decided to stay at the lodge's restaurant, enticed by the promise of upscale dining and breathtaking views. The menu featured a variety of Patagonian specialties, and we opted for a selection of dishes to share. We started with a plate of grilled seafood, followed by a hearty lamb stew and a side of roasted vegetables. The food was exquisite, and the service was impeccable. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day.
As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I can't help but feel grateful for the experiences we've had today. Torres del Paine is a truly magical place, and I feel so fortunate to be able to share it with my family. The challenging hikes, the breathtaking views, and the delicious food have all combined to create a day that I will never forget.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore Cerro Paine Grande and Laguna Reflejo del Cielo. We'll also stop by LE MOUTON VERT, a shop specializing in Patagonia Merino sheep wool and sustainable clothing. I'm excited to see what adventures await us, and I'm sure they will be just as memorable as today. I'm also hoping to find a portable charger there – I really need to remember to pack one!
Before I turn in for the night, we're planning to have dinner at Las Dos Rosas de Paine, a restaurant known for its authentic Chilean cuisine and warm hospitality. I'm looking forward to trying some traditional dishes and experiencing the local culture. It's these small moments of connection that make traveling so rewarding, and I'm eager to immerse myself in the flavors and traditions of Patagonia.
Discover authentic Chilean cuisine at Las Dos Rosas de Paine - where traditional flavors meet warm hospitality in the heart of Paine.
Explore the wonders of Torres del Paine with family, embracing nature, adventure, and cultural experiences in one of Chile's most iconic national parks.
Meet this Featured Explorer
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Occupation: Mobile App Developer specializing in tourism apps
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Country: Germany
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Age: 42
Hola! I'm Juan Diaz, a Chilean expat living in Potsdam, Germany, with my lovely wife, Klara, and our energetic son, Mateo. By day, I develop mobile apps for the tourism industry, but my true passion lies in exploring the world and sharing my adventures with you. This blog is my way of connecting with fellow travelers, sharing tips, and inspiring you to embark on your own sustainable and culturally rich journeys. Whether it's hiking through ancient ruins, savoring local cuisine, or discovering hidden gems in bustling cities, I'm always on the lookout for authentic experiences that leave a lasting impact. Join me as I navigate the globe, one sustainable adventure at a time!
- Sustainable living
- Modern architecture
- Technological innovation
- Latin American literature
- Indie music
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