Solo Historical and Cultural Exploration in Kanazawa

Stepping Back in Time in Kanazawa

Today was a day of deep dives into Kanazawa's past, a journey through the lives of samurai, geisha, and lords. It’s fascinating to see how the echoes of history resonate in the present, shaping the city’s identity and charm. As a restoration technician, I find myself drawn to the meticulous preservation efforts here, a testament to the value placed on heritage.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Curio Espresso and Vintage Design Café. The café had a cool, relaxed atmosphere. I ordered a strong espresso, just the way I like it to kickstart my day. It reminded me of the cafes back in Montreal, a little piece of home away from home. The owner, Sol, was super friendly and accommodating. Apparently, he is from Seattle. It’s always interesting to see how people from different backgrounds bring their own unique flavor to a new place. It made me think of how Sophie and I have blended our cultures in Montreal, creating a unique home for Mateo.


Experience the charm of Curio Espresso and Vintage Design Café in Kanazawa – where delicious brunch meets vintage vibes.

Fueled up, I headed to the Kanazawa City Ashigaru Museum. Nestled in the heart of Kanazawa, the museum offered a glimpse into the lives of the lower-ranked samurai, known as ashigaru. It was fascinating to see how they lived, their homes, and their daily routines. The museum consists of two well-preserved Edo-period homes. It is free to enter and is open daily. It's quite humbling to see the simplicity of their lives compared to the grandeur of the lords and their villas. The displays of tools, weapons and everyday items gave a clear picture of what life was like in the Edo period. As someone who works in restoration, I appreciated the dedication to preserving these homes, complete with their distinctive stone roofs. It reminded me of the importance of my work back in Montreal, preserving the stories and history embedded in the buildings we restore.


Explore the Kanazawa City Ashigaru Museum to uncover the intriguing history of Japan's foot soldiers and their impact on samurai culture.

From the Ashigaru Museum, I wandered over to the Kazuemachi Chaya District. This is one of Kanazawa's three traditional teahouse districts, where geiko (the Kanazawa term for geisha) entertain guests with music, dance, and games. Established in the early Meiji era, the wooden buildings and riverside location create a charming atmosphere. The narrow alleys and lattice fences exude a calm atmosphere.


Discover the captivating Kazuemachi Chaya District in Kanazawa, a historical treasure showcasing traditional teahouses and rich cultural experiences.

The beauty of Kanazawa lies not just in its grand monuments, but also in the quiet corners where the past whispers to the present.

Walking along the Asano River, I imagined what it must have been like in the Edo period, with the sounds of shamisen and drums echoing through the streets. The Kazuemachi district is known for its streetscape of narrow alleys and shops with lattice patterns. It is a National Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. I could almost picture the geishas gracefully moving through the streets, their kimonos rustling in the breeze. It reminded me of stories my grandfather used to tell me about the vibrant cultural life in Huancavelica, Peru. I stopped to admire the Naka Bridge, a popular photo spot known for its charming wooden structure.

For lunch, I had made a reservation at Kourin Sushi. This restaurant has a long history since 1951 and is now managed by the third generation Sushi Chef. It's a small, cozy place filled with messages written on post-it notes from customers and tourists. I was lucky to be seated at the counter, where I could watch the chefs at work. I opted for the joh nigiri, a plate of 10 sushi with high-quality ingredients. The sushi was incredibly fresh, and the chef’s skill was evident in every bite. It was probably in the top 5 sushi restaurants I’ve been to in Japan. I especially enjoyed the miso soup with prawn heads—the perfect amount of saltiness and sweetness. As I savored each piece, I thought about Mateo and how much he would have loved this experience. I made a mental note to bring him here someday, to share the flavors of Japan with my son. I am glad I made a booking because the place is very popular.


Experience authentic Japanese sushi at Kourin Sushi in Kanazawa - where tradition meets flavor in every bite.

In the afternoon, I visited Seison-kaku, a large villa built in 1863 by Maeda Nariyasu for his mother. It was built as a retirement home for his mother, Takako. The villa blends traditional Japanese design with Western touches that were coming into fashion at the end of the Edo period. The villa is an Important National Cultural asset and remains one of Japan's most elegant samurai villas.


Explore Seison-kaku, a historic gem in Kanazawa, where traditional architecture meets serene gardens, embodying Japan's rich cultural heritage.

Walking through the villa, I was struck by the elegance and attention to detail. The main floor is built in the buke-shoin style, with a formal guest chamber. The second floor is decorated in strong reds, blues, and purples in the sukiya-shoin style. Some of the shoji screens feature glass panes imported from the Netherlands, allowing snow viewing in wintertime without opening the screens. The villa was designed so that the sound of running water can be heard in the bedroom, soothing the residents as they slept. It’s amazing how they incorporated elements of nature into the design, creating a harmonious living space. I was particularly impressed by the Horsetail corridor, a 20-meter-long walkway with no supporting beams holding up the roof. The craftsmanship and engineering were truly remarkable. The villa is built around two small gardens. I could just imagine Lady Shinryu-in spending her days here, enjoying the peace and tranquility of her surroundings. It reminded me of Sophie and her love for peaceful environments.

Before dinner, I decided to check out Oriental Brewing, a local craft beer bar. Located in an old chaya building, the brewery has a chilled and friendly atmosphere. The owner, Tanaka-san, came up with the idea of opening his own brew pub while travelling various countries. I sampled a few of their beers, each one unique and flavorful. It was a great way to unwind after a day of exploring. The place is non-smoking and family friendly. I thought about how Mateo would enjoy a place like this, with its relaxed vibe and interesting drinks.


Explore Oriental Brewing: A Craft Beer Paradise in Kanazawa with Unique Brews, Delicious Pizzas, and a Cozy Atmosphere.

For dinner, I had made a reservation at Teppanyaki makibi san-an. The restaurant offers a great course with the opportunity to watch food being cooked right in front of you. The chef's detailed explanations and staff attentiveness made me feel at home and relaxed. The restaurant combines the art of cooking with the thrill of live performance. I chose the wagyu course meal, and it was an experience to remember. The chef skillfully grilled the meat on the teppan, creating a delicious aroma that filled the air. The wagyu simply melted in my mouth. The additional abalone dish was the most flavorful and delicious I had ever eaten. I appreciated the chef’s attention to detail and the quality of the ingredients. The Wagyu beef is cooked over firewood to add aroma to the delicate flavor.


Experience authentic teppanyaki dining at Teppanyaki Makibi San-an in Kanazawa—where culinary artistry meets vibrant flavors.

As I walked back to my hotel, I reflected on the day’s adventures. From the humble homes of the ashigaru to the elegant villa of Seison-kaku, I had gained a deeper understanding of Kanazawa’s history and culture. The city’s commitment to preserving its heritage is truly commendable, and I feel grateful to have experienced a glimpse into its past. Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Ishiura Shrine and Gyokusenin Maru Garden, continuing my exploration of Kanazawa’s historical and cultural treasures. I am also planning to visit Hakuichi Kanazawa Hyakubangai Store [S]. I'm excited to see what new discoveries await me.