Exploring the Untamed Beauty of Iceland's Highlands
Day 1: First Day in the Highlands: Landmannalaugar's Fiery Embrace
Kirsten and Hans embark on their Icelandic Highlands adventure, exploring Landmannalaugar's geothermal wonders and rugged trails.
A Highland Beginning
The Highlands of Iceland have always held a special allure for me, a promise of untouched landscapes and serene isolation. Today, that promise began to unfold as Hans and I embarked on our adventure, setting foot in Landmannalaugar, a geothermal wonderland nestled amidst colorful rhyolite mountains. The air was crisp, carrying a hint of sulfur, and the sky, though overcast, couldn't diminish the vibrant hues of the landscape that stretched before us.
Explore the vibrant landscapes and geothermal wonders of Landmannalaugar, a captivating mountain peak in Iceland's stunning highlands.
Our day started with a hearty breakfast at Hotel Highland | Hótel Hálend. I savored every bite, knowing we needed the energy for the day's hike. The hotel was cozy and inviting, and it was a perfect starting point for our journey into the Highlands. After breakfast, we loaded up our trusty 4x4 and began the drive towards Landmannalaugar. The drive itself was an experience, the landscape morphing from green pastures to stark volcanic plains.
Arriving in Landmannalaugar felt like stepping onto another planet. The mountains were painted in shades of red, orange, yellow, and green, a surreal contrast to the black lava fields. We parked our car, mindful of the new parking reservation system, and took a moment to soak in the view. The weather was chilly, around 5°C, and there was a slight chance of rain. I was glad I had packed my warm, layered clothing.
Our first stop was the Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll. Though we didn't need to purchase anything, it was interesting to see the variety of goods available. It's good to know there are options in case we need something during our travels. Kerlingarfjöll boasts a unique shopping scene that offers visitors a chance to bring home a piece of Icelandic culture. From handcrafted woolen goods and traditional Icelandic sweaters to locally made ceramics and jewelry inspired by the surrounding landscape, the shops in Kerlingarfjöll provide a one-of-a-kind shopping experience.

Experience the breathtaking beauty of the Icelandic highlands at Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll, your gateway to adventure and relaxation.
We decided to tackle the trail to Hrafntinnusker, a challenging but rewarding hike that promised stunning views. The path started relatively easy, winding through the Laugahraun lava field. The contrast of the black lava against the colorful mountains was striking. As we ascended, the terrain became more rugged, with patches of snow and ice adding to the difficulty.
Explore the breathtaking beauty of Hrafntinnusker, an iconic mountain peak in the stunning Icelandic Highlands, perfect for nature lovers and hikers.
The Highlands demand respect, but reward those who embrace their untamed beauty.
The weather turned as we climbed higher. The wind picked up, and a light snow began to fall. Visibility decreased, and I was grateful for my hiking boots and waterproof gear. Hans and I pressed on, determined to reach our destination. I was especially mindful of the conditions, as the path to Hrafntinnusker is known to be challenging, and in poor conditions, dangerous.
Reaching Hrafntinnusker was an accomplishment. The landscape was otherworldly, a vast expanse of black obsidian mountains and steaming vents. The Hrafntinnusker hut provided a welcome respite from the cold. We took a moment to warm up and enjoy a quick snack before starting our descent.
The descent was tricky, with the snow making the path slippery. We took our time, carefully navigating the terrain. As we made our way back down, the weather began to clear, revealing breathtaking views of the surrounding Highlands. The sun peeked through the clouds, casting a golden light on the landscape.
Back in Landmannalaugar, we decided to treat ourselves to a soak in the natural hot springs. The warm water was soothing, easing our tired muscles. It was the perfect way to end a challenging but fulfilling day. As I sat there, surrounded by the stunning scenery, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience this incredible place.
For lunch, we stopped at Ásgarður (Kerlingarfjöll). We enjoyed a hearty meal, refueling after our long hike. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, and the food was delicious. I especially enjoyed the traditional Icelandic lamb soup. It was the perfect way to warm up after a day in the cold.
Experience exquisite dining at Ásgarður in Kerlingarfjöll; indulge in local flavors surrounded by breathtaking Icelandic nature.
After our soak, we packed up our gear and began the drive to The Highland Center Hrauneyjar, where we planned to have dinner and spend the night. The Highland Center Hrauneyjar is known as the last outpost before entering the Highlands. The drive was scenic, with views of vast lava fields and distant mountains.

Discover comfort and adventure at The Highland Center Hrauneyjar – your essential stop in Iceland's breathtaking highlands.
Dinner at The Highland Center Hrauneyjar was a delightful experience. The restaurant offered excellent home-cooked cuisine in a comfortable and relaxed environment. I savored every bite, knowing that we needed the energy for the days ahead.
As the day drew to a close, I reflected on our first day in the Highlands. It had been challenging but incredibly rewarding. The landscapes were stunning, the hiking was invigorating, and the hot springs were a welcome treat. I felt a deep connection to nature, a sense of peace and tranquility that I rarely experience in the city.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Fjallabak Nature Reserve and the stunning Aldeyjarfoss waterfall. I'm excited to see what new adventures await us. The Fjallabak Nature Reserve offers a variety of hiking trails and stunning views. And Aldeyjarfoss is known for its unique basalt columns and powerful waterfall.
Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note of the items we'd forgotten: a portable stove and binoculars. While the restaurants had been great today, having a stove would offer more flexibility for preparing meals in the coming days. And binoculars would certainly enhance our wildlife viewing opportunities.
As I closed my eyes, I couldn't help but feel grateful for this incredible journey. The Highlands of Iceland were truly a special place, a place of raw beauty and serene isolation. And I was excited to explore more of its wonders in the days to come. Tonight, I will sleep soundly, dreaming of geysers and waterfalls.
The weather in the Highlands can change rapidly, and it's important to be prepared for anything. I checked the forecast for tomorrow. It looks like we can expect more of the same: chilly temperatures, a chance of rain, and plenty of wind. I made sure to pack extra layers of clothing and waterproof gear.
I also made sure to download the 112 Iceland app, which can be used to contact emergency services in case of an accident. It's always better to be safe than sorry, especially in such a remote area. It’s also important to be respectful of the environment. The Highlands are a fragile ecosystem, and it's important to leave no trace behind. I made sure to pack out all of our trash and stay on the designated trails.
Despite the challenges, I knew that this trip would be an unforgettable experience. The Highlands of Iceland were a place of raw beauty and serene isolation, a place where I could reconnect with nature and escape the stresses of modern life. And I was excited to share my experiences with my readers, to inspire them to explore this incredible place for themselves. The sun has now set, and it’s time for me to get some sleep. Tomorrow will be another day filled with adventure, and I want to be well-rested and ready for anything.
Join Kirsten and Hans on a journey through the Highlands of Iceland, exploring majestic landscapes and embracing sustainable travel.
Meet this Featured Explorer
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Occupation: Freelance Urban Gardener and Travel Blogger
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Country: Germany
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Age: 36
Hej! I'm Kirsten, a Danish transplant living in Berlin with my husband, Hans. By day, I'm an urban gardener, transforming city spaces into green havens. But my real passion lies in exploring the world and sharing my experiences with you. I'm all about sustainable travel, immersing myself in local cultures, and finding those hidden gems that make each destination unique. Join me as I share my adventures, tips for eco-conscious travel, and a little bit of 'hygge' along the way!
- Sustainable living
- Scandinavian design
- Photography
- Local cuisine
- Modern art
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