Exploring the Untamed Beauty of Iceland's Highlands

Chasing Waterfalls and Finding Paradise

Today, Hans and I ventured deeper into the Highlands, and what we discovered was nothing short of magical. It’s days like these that remind me why I love sharing our adventures, hoping to inspire others to seek out the hidden beauty in our world.

Our morning began, as most do on this trip, with a hearty breakfast at Nordic Restaurant in Reykjavik [i]. Fuelled up, we set off towards the interior, eager to see what wonders awaited us. The drive itself was an experience, the landscape transforming from the familiar coastal views to the stark, volcanic terrain that defines the Highlands. The weather was kind, a gentle breeze and a sky that threatened rain but held back, allowing us to fully appreciate the raw beauty around us. I was missing my binoculars though, a silly thing to forget for a nature lover like myself. Hans reminded me that we could always pick some up tomorrow while visiting Icewear in Vík.

Our first stop was Hjálparfoss, a waterfall that I had read about extensively but was still unprepared for its serene beauty. Reaching Hjálparfoss, about 30 kilometers from Flúðir, involved navigating a gravel road off Route 32. The falls are formed by the merging of the Fossá and Þjórsá rivers, creating a mesmerizing cascade into a tranquil pool. The surrounding lava fields, remnants of eruptions from the nearby Hekla volcano, added a dramatic touch to the scene. The name 'Hjálparfoss' translates to 'Helpful Falls,' a nod to its historical significance as a refuge for travelers crossing the barren Sprengisandur route. I could easily see why; the area felt like an oasis, a place of respite amidst the rugged landscape. We spent a good hour simply watching the water, the sound a constant, soothing presence. The way the two streams of water cascaded down the rocks, merging into one, was mesmerizing. The basalt columns framing the waterfall added a touch of architectural grandeur, as if nature herself was a master builder.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Hjálparfoss, a stunning waterfall in Iceland's Þjórsárdalur valley, perfect for nature lovers and photographers.

The true beauty of Iceland lies not just in its grand vistas, but in the intimate, unexpected moments of discovery.

Next on our itinerary was Gjáin, a valley often described as one of Iceland's hidden pearls. And hidden it was! The drive to Gjáin was an adventure in itself, requiring a sturdy 4x4 to navigate the bumpy, unpaved roads. The landscape was stark and barren, typical of the Highlands, making the sudden appearance of the valley all the more surprising. Gjáin is a small gorge filled with lush greenery, waterfalls, lava caves, and basalt columns. It felt like stepping into another world, a secret garden tucked away in the heart of Iceland. It is located in the Þjórsárdalur valley, about an hour from the Golden Circle and two hours from Reykjavik. We hiked around, exploring the various nooks and crannies, each turn revealing a new, breathtaking view. The Rauðá river meandered through the valley, feeding several small waterfalls, the most notable being Gjárfoss.


Explore Gjáin, a breathtaking Icelandic valley filled with vibrant flora, stunning waterfalls, and unique geological wonders for an unforgettable adventure.

I was particularly excited to visit Gjáin because of its connection to Game of Thrones; it served as a filming location for the series. Knowing that Arya Stark and the Hound had once walked this very ground added an extra layer of excitement to the experience. Hans, ever the pragmatist, was more impressed by the geological formations and the sheer abundance of plant life in such an unexpected location. The contrast between the black volcanic rock and the vibrant green moss was striking, a testament to nature's resilience and beauty. We found a quiet spot by one of the smaller waterfalls and enjoyed a picnic lunch, savoring the tranquility of the valley. It was a moment of pure bliss, a feeling of being completely immersed in nature, far away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. I took several photos, trying to capture the essence of this magical place, knowing that no image could truly do it justice. I made a mental note to try to incorporate some of the hardy Icelandic flora into my urban garden back in Berlin. Perhaps some inspiration for my rooftop oasis.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way back to Reykjavik, our hearts full of the day's adventures. We decided to treat ourselves to a nice dinner at Grillmarkaðurinn [i]. The restaurant works with local farmers, and in my experience, this was as farm to table as it gets. The downstairs at Grillmarket is not a downgrade at all. The decor is very “Northern Eclectic” as I call it.


Discover authentic Icelandic flavors at Grillmarkaðurinn, where local ingredients meet culinary artistry in a stylish setting.

After dinner, we decided to explore Reykjavik's nightlife a bit, stopping by Skúli Craft Bar for a taste of local brews [i, 12]. The bar had a great selection of Icelandic beers on tap. The bartender was knowledgeable and friendly, offering recommendations and sharing stories about the local beer scene. It was the perfect way to end the day, reflecting on our adventures while enjoying the company of fellow travelers. The Skúli Craft Bar had a bright, industrial-feeling space. Windows line two walls and make the place feel bright and welcoming. I enjoyed talking with the bartender, who mentioned that they see mostly tourists during the day, due to the price of alcohol in Iceland.


Discover the essence of Icelandic brewing culture at Skúli Craft Bar, where a vibrant atmosphere meets an impressive selection of craft beers.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Sigöldugljúfur and Ófærufoss, two more gems in the Highland's crown. I am particularly excited about Sigöldugljúfur, also known as the Valley of Tears, with its numerous waterfalls cascading into a narrow gorge. And Ófærufoss, with its unique natural bridge, promises to be another unforgettable sight. As we prepare for another day of exploration, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the raw, untamed beauty of Iceland's Highlands. It is a place that challenges and inspires, a place that reminds us of the power and resilience of nature. And as we continue our journey, I am excited to share these experiences with you, hoping to inspire your own adventures and discoveries. Good night!

Oh, I almost forgot to mention our lunch plans for tomorrow! We are booked at Svarta Kaffið. I heard they have the best soup in town!