Solo Expedition to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park

A Day of Discovery in Phong Nha

Today was a day of embracing the raw beauty and local charm of Phong Nha. From the depths of remarkable caves to the simple pleasures of Vietnamese cuisine and a cold beer, it was an experience that resonated with my soul. It's days like these that remind me why I set out on this solo adventure in the first place.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at The Rice House. I opted for a traditional Vietnamese breakfast, a flavorful bowl of pho that was both comforting and energizing. The broth was rich and aromatic, filled with fresh herbs and tender noodles. It was the perfect fuel for the day’s adventures ahead. I remember Fatou always saying that a good breakfast sets the tone for the entire day, and she couldn't have been more right. I made a mental note to try and recreate this pho when I get back home to Bielefeld; it would be a delightful reminder of my time here. After breakfast, I made my way to the first destination of the day: Hang Trạ Ang.


Explore the captivating Hang Trạch Ang in Quang Binh, Vietnam - a natural wonder of caves and stunning landscapes for every adventurer's delight.
The journey to Hang Trạ Ang was an adventure in itself. The trek involved navigating through dense jungle, crossing streams, and clambering over rocks. The air was thick with humidity, and the sounds of the forest surrounded me – the chirping of insects, the rustling of leaves, and the occasional call of a bird. It was a welcome contrast to the noise of Bielefeld, and I found myself appreciating the tranquility of the natural world. As I walked, I couldn't help but think of Ebrima, my son. He would have loved this trek, his youthful energy would have been well-suited to the rugged terrain. I must remember to tell him about this place when I next speak to him. The trail eventually led to the entrance of Hang Trạ Ang, a stunning water cave known for its pristine beauty.

To venture into the depths of the earth is to touch the heart of the world.

Exploring Hang Trạ Ang involved swimming through the cave's cool, clear waters. The darkness inside was punctuated only by the beams of our headlamps, revealing incredible rock formations and the glistening surfaces of the water. It was an otherworldly experience, and I felt a sense of awe and wonder as I navigated through the cave's hidden chambers. The water was so refreshing, and I enjoyed the sensation of swimming in the dark, surrounded by nothing but the sounds of dripping water and the occasional echo. I spent a couple of hours exploring Hang Trạ Ang, marveling at its natural beauty and feeling a sense of accomplishment at having conquered its depths.

After the exhilaration of Hang Trạ Ang, it was time for lunch. I headed to The Villas Restaurant, a highly-regarded establishment known for its beautiful riverside setting and delicious cuisine. I opted for a Vietnamese dish, savoring the fresh flavors and local ingredients. The Villas Restaurant is a beautiful eating place. It is situated along the sensational Son River, surrounded by karst mountains. The dining style is simple and uncomplicated. A small menu allows them to offer you their very best while still catering for everything from tasty snacks to a great dining menu for you and your friends. The peaceful ambiance and the stunning views of the Son River made it a perfect spot to relax and recharge before the afternoon's adventure.


Discover exquisite Vietnamese cuisine amidst the natural beauty of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park at The Villas Restaurant.
The next cave on the itinerary was En Cave, one of the largest natural caves in the world. The trek to En Cave was different from the morning's hike, with a more challenging path that took me deeper into the jungle. The landscape was breathtaking, with towering limestone karsts, lush vegetation, and hidden valleys. I passed through the village of Ban Doong, where I had the opportunity to meet some of the local Bru - Van Kieu people and learn about their traditional way of life. It was a humbling experience, and I felt a deep respect for the resilience and resourcefulness of these communities. En Cave has a large passage, running through a limestone mountain, with three entrances that are up to 110m high, a ceiling that reaches 145m at its highest point, and the widest section of the passageway reaching up to 200m. Inside Hang En Cave in Phong Nha - Ke Bang National Park, there is a clear stream that flows through the cave, eventually heading to Hang Son Doong.


Discover the enchanting En Cave in Quang Binh Province, Vietnam, where nature's beauty meets adventure in a breathtaking underground world.
As I finally reached the entrance to En Cave, I was struck by its sheer size and grandeur. The cave's massive chambers were filled with stalactites and stalagmites, creating a surreal and awe-inspiring landscape. I spent hours exploring En Cave, marveling at its natural beauty and feeling a sense of wonder at the forces of nature that had created this subterranean wonderland. It was truly a highlight of my trip, and I knew that this was an experience I would never forget.

After a day of caving, I was ready for a hearty dinner. I chose to dine at Phong Nha Family Restaurant, a local favorite known for its authentic Vietnamese cuisine and friendly atmosphere. I ordered a selection of dishes, including fresh spring rolls, grilled pork with rice noodles, and a flavorful vegetable curry. The food was delicious, and the portions were generous. The family who ran the restaurant were incredibly welcoming, and I enjoyed chatting with them about their lives and the local culture. It was a truly authentic and immersive experience, and I felt a sense of connection to the community. PHONG NHA FAMILY RESTAURANT is a fantastic spot for a delicious meal or an affordable drink. The staff members are incredibly friendly and do an excellent job of maintaining cleanliness and ensuring efficient service.


Discover authentic Vietnamese flavors at Phong Nha Family Restaurant in Quang Binh Province – a culinary gem amidst stunning natural beauty.
To cap off the day, I decided to visit Pub with cold beer, a quirky bar known for its ice-cold drinks and laid-back vibe. It was the perfect spot to unwind after a day of adventure, and I enjoyed sipping on a beer while chatting with fellow travelers. The atmosphere was relaxed and friendly, and I felt a sense of camaraderie with the other patrons. The Pub With Cold Beer is famous for their farm-to-table methods. Everything served is grown on their property. The atmosphere at the Pub With Cold Beer is relaxed and welcoming. Hammocks swing gently next to the pool table and chairs are peppered around the property; many with uninterrupted views over the Bong Lai Valley. The pub has been forging a name for itself as the alternative 'must-do' attraction in the region.


Discover the charm of Quang Binh's best pub, where cold beer meets local culture in a warm and inviting atmosphere.
As I sit here now, reflecting on the day's adventures, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this incredible region. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is a truly special place, and I am so grateful to have had the chance to experience its natural beauty and cultural richness. The blend of adventure, culinary delights, and local charm has created memories that I will cherish for a lifetime. The weather in Phong Nha in November is warm, with average temperatures ranging from 69°F (21°C) to 79°F (26°C). The humidity is high, around 89%, and there's a good chance of rain.

Tomorrow, I am planning to visit the Elephant Cave. I've heard it's another spectacular site, and I am eager to explore its depths. I also plan to visit Lá Store - Cho thuê đồ Boho/Vintage Phong Nha - Quảng Bình, a shop known for its boho and vintage clothing. I'm hoping to find a unique souvenir to take back home to Fatou. I know she would appreciate a little piece of Vietnamese culture to add to her wardrobe. For now, I'll rest up and prepare for another day of adventure in this remarkable corner of the world.