Family Adventure on Hiiumaa Island: Exploring Estonia's Hidden Gem

Echoes of History and Whispers of Nature

Today was a day of contrasts, a beautiful blend of delving into Hiiumaa's past and immersing ourselves in its serene natural landscapes. As someone with Estonian roots, I always feel a pull towards understanding the layers of history that have shaped this land, and today was no exception. It's fascinating to see how history intertwines with the present, influencing the culture and the very landscape we walk upon.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Muku Tare. It's a simple place, almost unassuming, but those are often the best kinds of discoveries. It reminded me of the small gas station eateries back in Võru, where you could always count on a good, honest meal. I opted for a classic burger, while Hans enjoyed a hearty portion of fries. Kati, ever the adventurous one, tried a local pastry she couldn't pronounce but declared delicious. It’s these small, unscripted moments that make traveling with family so special. After our bellies were full, we set off for the Hiiumaa Military Museum.


Discover the captivating military history of Estonia at the Hiiumaa Military Museum, a must-visit attraction on Hiiumaa Island.

The museum is located in a former Soviet border guard station, which immediately sets a somber tone. As we walked through the exhibits, I was struck by the weight of history. It's one thing to read about wars and occupations in textbooks, but it's another to stand among the artifacts and hear the stories of those who lived through it. The museum has a vast collection of military equipment, uniforms, and documents, offering a comprehensive look at Hiiumaa's role in various conflicts. Hans, with his architect's eye, was particularly interested in the bunker constructed in a potato cellar. Kati, surprisingly, was captivated by the stories of the soldiers stationed here during the Soviet era. It was a sobering experience, a reminder of the sacrifices made to secure the freedoms we enjoy today.

History is a relentless storyteller, and today, Hiiumaa whispered tales of resilience, conflict, and the enduring spirit of its people.

After a couple of hours immersed in military history, we needed a change of pace. We decided to head to Orjaku õpperada, a nature trail that promised a breath of fresh air and a chance to stretch our legs.


Explore the serene Orjaku Hiking Area in Hiiu County, where nature's beauty and adventure await every traveler.

The trail is located in the Käina Bay-Kassari Landscape Reserve, a protected area known for its diverse birdlife. As we started our walk, the air was filled with the sounds of birds chirping and the gentle rustling of reeds. The trail consists of two loops: a longer one of 2 km and a shorter one of 0.7 km. We opted for the shorter Roostikuring, a boardwalk that meanders through a dense reedbed.

It was a completely different world from the military museum. Here, the focus was on the beauty and tranquility of nature. The boardwalk led us to Silmakare, a birdwatching platform that offered panoramic views of the bay. Although it's not the migratory season when thousands of birds stop at the bay, we still managed to spot several species, including swans, ducks, and herons. Kati, who is developing a keen interest in photography, was thrilled to capture some stunning shots of the birds in their natural habitat. I found myself reflecting on the resilience of nature, its ability to thrive even in the face of human conflict and intervention. It was a peaceful, restorative experience, a reminder of the importance of preserving these natural spaces for future generations.

After our nature walk, our stomachs started to rumble. We decided to have lunch at Masala, an Indian restaurant in Hiiumaa.


Discover the rich flavors of Asia at Masala in Kärdla—where authentic cuisine meets warm hospitality.

It felt a bit out of place, but we were all in the mood for something different. The reviews were promising, and we were curious to see how Indian cuisine would be interpreted on a small Estonian island. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a fragrant aroma of spices wafting through the air. Hans, a big fan of Indian food, was particularly excited. We ordered a variety of dishes, including chicken tikka masala, lamb curry, and vegetable biryani. The food was surprisingly good, a testament to the chef's skill and the availability of fresh ingredients. It wasn't quite the same as the Indian restaurants we frequent in Leipzig, but it was a delicious and satisfying meal nonetheless.

In the late afternoon, with our energy levels slightly flagging, we made a quick stop at Hiiumaa Selver.


Explore Hiiumaa Selver, a premier supermarket in Estonia offering a wide selection of local groceries and fresh produce for an authentic shopping experience.

We needed to pick up a few essentials, including sunscreen, which I had foolishly forgotten to pack. It's always something, isn't it? The store was bustling with activity, a mix of locals and tourists stocking up on supplies. I was impressed by the selection of local products, including cheeses, jams, and smoked fish. We grabbed a few souvenirs for friends back home and headed back to our guesthouse.

For dinner, we decided to try Kalana ÄÄR, a restaurant located in the Kalana harbor.


Experience authentic Estonian cuisine at Kalana ÄÄR in beautiful Kalana - where delicious food meets stunning coastal views.

The restaurant is known for its seafood and its beautiful waterfront location. As we arrived, the sun was beginning to set, casting a golden glow over the harbor. The atmosphere was relaxed and convivial, with families and couples enjoying their meals al fresco. We ordered a platter of grilled fish, along with some local beer. The food was fresh and delicious, and the view was simply stunning. As we ate, we watched the fishing boats returning to harbor, their nets laden with the day's catch. It was a perfect ending to a day of contrasts, a reminder of the simple pleasures of life: good food, good company, and the beauty of nature.

Tomorrow is our last day on Hiiumaa, and we plan to make the most of it. We're going to visit the Elamuskeskus Tuuletorn - Windtower Experience, a unique attraction that promises panoramic views of the island. We're also going to explore the Sõru rear Lighthouse, another iconic landmark. And of course, we'll be sure to sample some more local cuisine. Before we leave, I want to soak up every last bit of this beautiful island, to carry its spirit with me back to Leipzig. I’m already anticipating the Luige baar, a charming local bar where I hope to enjoy one last Estonian beer, savoring the memories of our Hiiumaa adventure.

As I sit here writing this, I can't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to reconnect with my roots, to share this experience with my family. Hiiumaa has a way of getting under your skin, of reminding you of what's truly important in life. It's a place of history, beauty, and resilience, a place that I will carry in my heart long after we've left its shores.