Family Adventure in the Loire Valley: A Journey Through History and Nature

Saumur's Surprises: A Royal Castle and a Mushroom Kingdom

Today was a delightful blend of history and whimsy as we explored Saumur, a town that effortlessly marries regal splendor with quirky charm. From the imposing Château de Saumur to the fascinating Musée du Champignon, every moment was filled with discovery and wonder. It’s amazing how much there is to see and do in this relatively small corner of the Loire Valley.


Explore the rich history and stunning architecture of Château de Saumur, a captivating castle in the heart of the Loire Valley.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Auberge Pom'Poire. The fresh fruit and pastries were the perfect fuel for a day of exploration. The drive into Saumur was picturesque, with the rolling hills and vineyards painting a beautiful backdrop. Arriving at the Château de Saumur, I was immediately struck by its grandeur. Perched high on a hill, the castle commands attention, its stone walls whispering tales of centuries past. It’s hard to believe this magnificent structure started as a fortified stronghold against Norman attacks back in the 10th century!

Andreas, Sophie, and I eagerly joined a guided tour. The guide was incredibly knowledgeable, sharing captivating stories about the castle's transformation from a fortress to a royal residence and even a prison. The architecture is stunning, a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles, showcasing the evolution of the castle over the centuries. I was particularly fascinated by the octagonal towers, which were added in the 14th century by Louis I of Anjou.

The views from the castle ramparts were breathtaking. The Loire River snaked through the landscape, reflecting the clear blue sky. I could see the town of Saumur sprawling below, a charming mix of old and new. Sophie was particularly excited about the Decorative Arts and Horse Museum housed within the castle. The collection of decorative arts was exquisite, featuring furniture, tapestries, and ceramics from the 14th to 18th centuries. As for the horse museum, it was a fitting tribute to Saumur's equestrian tradition, with a fascinating display of saddles, bridles, and other equestrian artifacts. I learned that Saumur is known for its prestigious Cadre Noir, the French military riding academy, which further solidified its reputation as an equestrian capital.

The world is full of wonders; one simply needs to know where to look.

After a morning steeped in history, it was time for lunch. We headed to Restaurant Le Château de Pray in Amboise, a Michelin-starred gem nestled in a beautiful park overlooking the Loire. The setting was idyllic, and the food was simply divine. I savored every bite of the locally sourced ingredients, expertly prepared and presented. Andreas enjoyed a glass of regional wine, while Sophie opted for a refreshing sparkling apple juice. The chef, Arnaud Philippon, clearly has a passion for his craft, and it shone through in every dish. It was a truly memorable culinary experience.

With our appetites sated, we embarked on the afternoon's adventure: the Musée du Champignon. I must admit, I was a bit skeptical at first. A museum dedicated to mushrooms? But my curiosity got the better of me, and I’m so glad it did! Located in a network of troglodyte caves, the Musée du Champignon is a fascinating exploration of the world of fungi. We drove towards Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent, a short distance from Saumur, where the museum is located. The area itself is known for its troglodytic dwellings, adding to the unique charm of the experience.


Explore the enchanting world of mushrooms at the Musée du Champignon in Saumur, where nature meets culinary delights in an engaging museum.

As we entered the cool, damp caves, we were greeted by an array of mushrooms in all shapes, sizes, and colors. From the common button mushroom to exotic varieties like shiitake and pleurotes, the museum showcased the incredible diversity of the fungal kingdom. I learned about the cultivation process, which was surprisingly complex and fascinating. The museum cultivates about 12 tons of mushrooms each year! Sophie was particularly intrigued by the wild mushroom exhibit, which featured over 500 species, from the prized morel to the deadly amanite panthère. It was a stark reminder of the power and potential danger of nature.

The troglodyte setting added to the unique atmosphere of the museum. The caves, carved into the limestone hills, provided a natural and sustainable environment for mushroom cultivation. I was impressed by the ingenuity of the local farmers who have been using these caves for centuries. After touring the exhibits, we visited the museum shop, where we purchased some locally grown mushrooms and a jar of mushroom pâté. I’m looking forward to experimenting with these new ingredients in my cooking.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we made a quick stop at La ronde des rêves, a charming shop in Saumur. I was hoping to find a unique souvenir to remind me of our visit, and I wasn't disappointed. The shop was filled with local crafts, art, and other treasures. I ended up purchasing a beautiful hand-painted ceramic plate, which I plan to use as a centerpiece on our dining table back in Bonn.


Discover unique souvenirs and local treasures at La Ronde des Rêves, a charming gift shop that captures the spirit of the region.

Dinner was at Restaurant du Château de Rochecotte, another culinary highlight of our trip. The restaurant is located in a stunning château overlooking the Loire Valley, offering breathtaking views. We dined in the elegant dining room, surrounded by antique furnishings and exquisite artwork. The menu featured classic French cuisine with a modern twist, and every dish was a work of art. Andreas and I savored the rich flavors of the region, while Sophie enjoyed a specially prepared vegetarian dish. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.

Tomorrow, we're off to explore the Château de Langeais and the Château de l'Islette. I'm particularly excited to visit the Château de l'Islette, as I've heard it's a hidden gem with a romantic history. We plan to have breakfast at Auberge du Prieuré, followed by lunch at Auberge Pom'Poire, which we enjoyed so much today. In the evening, we'll try Le Shaker for a relaxing drink.

As I reflect on today’s adventures, I’m struck by the incredible diversity of the Loire Valley. From royal castles to mushroom caves, this region offers a wealth of experiences for every traveler. I’m so grateful to be sharing this journey with my family, creating memories that will last a lifetime. And who knows, maybe I’ll even start growing my own mushrooms when we get back home!

I almost forgot! Today, while exploring the Château de Saumur, I came across a group of children participating in a treasure hunt organized by the city. It was heartwarming to see the little ones running around with excitement, their eyes sparkling with curiosity. The Château de Saumur offers various activities for children during the Spring holidays, including themed visits and interactive workshops. Also, the Salon Coup 2 Canon, a wine fair organized by former students of Edgard Pisani, will be held on April 26, 2025, at the Château de Saumur. It's a great opportunity to discover a wide variety of wines produced by local professionals.

Before I sign off, I must share a funny incident from our visit to the Musée du Champignon. As we were exploring the troglodyte caves, Sophie suddenly exclaimed, Mom, look! It's a Smurf village! I burst out laughing, realizing that the clusters of small, white mushrooms did indeed resemble the homes of those beloved blue characters. It was a lighthearted moment that perfectly captured the whimsical charm of the Musée du Champignon.

The Loire Valley never ceases to amaze me with its blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Each day brings new discoveries and unforgettable experiences, making this family adventure one for the books. I can't wait to see what tomorrow holds as we continue our journey through this enchanting region.

On a side note, while at the Château de Saumur, I noticed a commemorative medal and a vintage token designed by the Saumur company Martineau. These items are available at the castle shop and the Cavalry Museum. It's a lovely way to take a piece of Saumur's history home with you.

What a day! I'm off to bed now, dreaming of castles, mushrooms, and the many adventures that still await us in the Loire Valley. Goodnight, everyone!