Exploring the Timeless Beauty of Shirakawa-go: A Solo Journey

A Day of Nostalgia and History in Takayama

The day began with a hearty Japanese breakfast at Chubei. I opted for the ‘CHUBEE SET’ which was an assortment of grilled Hida meat, rainbow trout, wild vegetables, and Shirakawa-made tofu. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration. The flavors were so fresh, and it was a wonderful introduction to the local cuisine. I made sure to try the Tororo soba, which added a comforting touch to the meal.

After breakfast, I headed to the Hida Takayama Retro Museum. Oh, what a trip down memory lane! From the moment I stepped inside, I was transported back to the Showa era. The museum is packed with nostalgic toys, vintage arcade games, and memorabilia from the 1960s, 70s, and 80s. It was like stepping into a time capsule, and I couldn't help but feel a sense of childlike wonder as I wandered through the exhibits.


Discover the charm of Japan's past at the Hida Takayama Retro Museum, where vintage toys and memorabilia create a nostalgic experience for visitors of all ages.

I spent a good hour or two exploring the museum. One of the highlights was the collection of vintage arcade games. I played classics like Pac-Man and Space Invaders, feeling like a kid again. The museum also had a recreation of a Showa-era classroom, complete with wooden desks and vintage textbooks. It was fascinating to see how much things have changed over the years.

Sometimes, the best way to understand the present is to take a step back into the past.

Leaving the Retro Museum, I made my way to Takayama Jinya, a former government building that dates back to the Edo period. This historical site offered a stark contrast to the playful atmosphere of the museum, but it was equally captivating. Takayama Jinya is the only remaining government building of its kind in Japan, and it provided a fascinating glimpse into the workings of feudal Japan.


Experience the historical essence of Takayama Jinya, a stunning landmark showcasing Japan's rich heritage and traditional architecture.

As I approached Takayama Jinya, the architecture immediately caught my eye. The traditional Japanese design, with its intricate wooden details and serene gardens, exuded a sense of history and authority. I learned that the building served as the local government office under the Tokugawa Shogunate, and it was in use until 1969. Imagine that!

Inside, I explored the various rooms and chambers, each meticulously preserved to reflect its original state. The tatami-matted offices, conference rooms, and interrogation room offered a tangible sense of the past. I could almost picture the officials and samurai who once walked these halls, carrying out their duties and shaping the course of history. The main building dates back to 1615, initially constructed as the residence of the lord of Hida, Kanamori.

One of the most impressive features of Takayama Jinya was the large rice storehouse, which is said to be the biggest traditional rice storehouse in Japan. Today, it functions as a museum, showcasing belongings and official documents of past local leaders, old maps of the Hida Region, and historic town plans. It was incredible to see these artifacts up close and gain a deeper understanding of the region's history.

For lunch, I stopped at Tenshukaku in Shirakawa-go. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, and the staff were incredibly welcoming. I opted for one of their set meals, which included a variety of local specialties. The Hida beef was tender and flavorful, and the miso soup was rich and comforting. I also tried some of the local pickles, which had a unique and tangy taste. It was a satisfying meal that perfectly captured the essence of the region's cuisine. I also learned that Tenshukaku offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and lush landscapes, which added to the overall dining experience.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors at Tenshukaku in Shirakawa—where culinary tradition meets stunning mountain views.

After lunch, I returned to Takayama and decided to unwind at Tanaka-ya, a local bar known for its selection of craft beers. I sampled a few different brews, chatting with the friendly bartender and soaking in the laid-back atmosphere. It was the perfect way to relax after a day of exploring.


Experience the authentic flavors of Japan at Tanaka-ya, Shirakawa-go's beloved soba noodle shop, nestled in a stunning traditional village.

For dinner, I had the pleasure of dining at Shirakawago Restaurant Irori, a charming eatery known for its traditional local dishes. The restaurant's interior was adorned with an irori (a traditional hearth), old photos of Shirakawa-go, and folk crafts, creating a cozy and rustic ambiance. I tried the Hoba Miso Set Meal, a Hida-Takayama specialty featuring miso grilled on a hoba leaf. The flavors were rich and savory, and the presentation was beautiful. I also sampled the Grilled Tofu Set Meal, made with the unique local Shirakawa-ko Tofu, which was incredibly delicious.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Shirakawago Restaurant Irori, nestled in the scenic beauty of Shirakawa-go's heritage village.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I'm struck by the unique blend of old and new that Takayama has to offer. The Hida Takayama Retro Museum transported me back to my childhood, while Takayama Jinya provided a fascinating glimpse into Japan's feudal past. The delicious local cuisine and the friendly locals added to the overall experience, making it a day to remember.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Jinya-mae Morning Markets and visit the Yoshijima Traditional House. I'm excited to immerse myself further in Takayama's culture and history and discover even more hidden gems.

Before heading back to my ryokan, I took a moment to reflect on the day. Heidelberg, with its own historical charm, feels a world away from the retro vibes and Edo-era grandeur of Takayama. This trip is not just a break from my routine as a geriatric nurse but also an enriching experience that broadens my perspective on different cultures and eras. I even made a mental note to try incorporating some Japanese ingredients into my cooking back home, perhaps surprising Hans with a Hida beef dish!

As I prepare for another day of exploration, I'm filled with gratitude for the opportunity to experience the timeless beauty of Shirakawa-go and Takayama. These journeys into the past remind me of the importance of preserving our heritage and cherishing the stories of those who came before us. And, of course, they remind me to pack sunscreen and a portable charger – lessons learned from my forgotten essentials!