Exploring the Peaks of Peru: A Journey to Huascaran National Park

Reaching New Heights: A Day of Ice and Awe

Today was a day of literal and metaphorical highs, a day where the thin air challenged my lungs and the stunning landscape filled my soul. Jean-Pierre and I ventured to the famed Glaciar Pastoruri, a jewel within Huascaran National Park. It was an experience that tested our limits, rewarded our efforts, and left us in awe of nature's grandeur.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Glaciar Pastoruri, a majestic glacier in the Andes, renowned for its stunning ice formations and diverse ecosystems.

The morning began with a hearty breakfast at Mi Comedia - Pizzeria. I know, pizza for breakfast sounds a bit unconventional, but after a little research, I discovered they serve more than just pizza. It seemed like the perfect spot to fuel up for our high-altitude adventure. We enjoyed some coffee and pastries there, the air filled with the aroma of baking dough and the promise of the day ahead. It was a cozy start, and I felt ready to embrace whatever challenges Pastoruri might throw our way.


Discover Mi Comedia - Pizzeria: A taste of Italy in Huaraz, renowned for delicious pizzas and warm hospitality.

Our journey to the glacier took us through picturesque towns, each a glimpse into the heart of the Peruvian Andes. Recuay, Ticapampa, and Catac—their names rolled off my tongue like a Malagasy poem, each town a verse in the story of this land. The drive itself was an ascent, both in altitude and anticipation. I couldn't help but feel a pang of guilt for forgetting my binoculars; the views were already incredible, and I knew I was missing out on spotting some of the local wildlife. Jean-Pierre, ever the prepared one, chuckled and reminded me that we could always buy a cheap pair in Huaraz later.

As we climbed higher, the landscape transformed. The air grew crisp and cool, and the vegetation became sparse, replaced by rugged terrain and towering peaks. We made a stop at the 'Lake of Seven Colors,' a surreal body of water reflecting the sky and the surrounding mountains in its shimmering surface. Then, it was on to the cave paintings, ancient echoes of a civilization that once thrived in this harsh yet beautiful environment. I imagined the artists, their hands steady despite the altitude, immortalizing their stories on these very rocks. It was a humbling experience, connecting with the past in such a profound way.

Finally, we reached the base of Glaciar Pastoruri. At over 5,000 meters (around 17,000 feet), the air was noticeably thinner. I could feel my heart working harder, and even Jean-Pierre, usually unfazed by physical exertion, admitted to feeling a slight shortness of breath. Altitude sickness is a real concern here, and I was grateful we had taken the time to acclimatize in Huaraz before attempting this trek. Before our trip, I had read about soroche pills and coca leaves, traditional remedies for altitude sickness. Luckily, we felt well enough to proceed without them, but it was reassuring to know they were available if needed.

The hike to the glacier itself was a gentle but steady climb. Many tourists opt to rent horses for this portion, but Jean-Pierre and I decided to tackle it on foot. I wanted to feel the earth beneath my boots, to earn the view with every step. It was a slow and deliberate ascent, each breath a conscious effort. I focused on the rhythm of my footsteps, trying to ignore the pounding in my ears and the slight dizziness that threatened to overwhelm me. I was glad that I had packed my hiking boots and waterproof jacket; the weather can change quickly at this altitude, and being prepared is essential.

The earth has music for those who listen.

And then, there it was: Glaciar Pastoruri. A vast expanse of ice and snow, shimmering under the Andean sun. It was a sight that stole my breath away, not just from the altitude, but from its sheer magnificence. The glacier was surrounded by towering peaks, their jagged edges piercing the sky. The silence was broken only by the occasional crack of ice and the whisper of the wind. I felt an overwhelming sense of awe and gratitude, grateful for the opportunity to witness such natural beauty.

Of course, the beauty of Pastoruri is tinged with sadness. As we walked closer, I couldn't help but notice the signs of glacial retreat. Patches of bare rock and debris marked the glacier's former boundaries, a stark reminder of the impact of climate change. It was a sobering experience, witnessing firsthand the effects of global warming on this fragile ecosystem. I felt a renewed sense of responsibility to do my part in protecting our planet for future generations.

We spent about an hour exploring the glacier, taking photos and simply soaking in the atmosphere. I felt a profound connection to this place, a sense of belonging that transcended language and culture. As a Malagasy woman living in Montreal, I often feel like I'm caught between two worlds. But here, amidst the towering peaks and the ancient ice, I felt grounded, connected to something larger than myself.

The descent was easier on the lungs but harder on the knees. We took our time, stopping frequently to admire the views and catch our breath. As we reached the base, I felt a sense of accomplishment and gratitude. I had conquered the altitude, witnessed a natural wonder, and connected with the soul of the Andes.

Back in Huaraz, we were famished. For lunch, we decided to try Ala qué rico. It was a small, unassuming restaurant, but the reviews were excellent. The food was simple but delicious, and the portions were generous. It was exactly what we needed after a long day of hiking. Jean-Pierre particularly enjoyed the local trout, while I savored a hearty vegetable stew. We chatted about our experience at the glacier, reliving the highlights and sharing our impressions. I made a mental note to start practicing my Quechua; I wanted to be able to communicate with the locals in their own language, to truly immerse myself in their culture.


Experience exceptional grilled dishes and gastropub delights at Ala Qué Rico in Huaraz - where culinary tradition meets modern taste.

For dinner, we chose Trece Buhos, a restaurant known for its local craft beer. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, and the food was delicious. I tried a beer made with coca leaves, a unique and surprisingly refreshing concoction. Jean-Pierre opted for a more traditional IPA, declaring it one of the best he'd had in South America. We shared a pizza and some appetizers, enjoying the company of fellow travelers and locals alike. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day.


Experience authentic Peruvian flavors at Trece Buhos in Huaraz – where grilled delights meet a vibrant atmosphere.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we made a quick stop at Craft Beer House. We wanted to sample a few more of the local brews before calling it a night. The bar was cozy and inviting, and the bartender was knowledgeable and passionate about his craft. I tried a dark ale with hints of chocolate and coffee, while Jean-Pierre sampled a pale ale with citrus notes. We chatted with the bartender about the local beer scene, learning about the different breweries and the unique ingredients they used.


Explore the Craft Beer House in Carhuaz for a delightful selection of local brews and a vibrant atmosphere perfect for relaxation and fun.

As I lay in bed that night, my body ached, but my heart was full. Today had been a challenge, but it had also been an incredible adventure. I had touched the sky at Glaciar Pastoruri, connected with the past at the cave paintings, and savored the flavors of the Peruvian Andes. I was grateful for the experience, and I knew that it would stay with me long after I left this beautiful country. This trip is about more than just seeing beautiful places; it's about pushing myself, learning about different cultures, and connecting with the world around me.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Cordillera Blanca and Callejón de Huaylas. I'm excited to see more of this stunning region, to hike through its valleys and climb its peaks. I'm sure it will be another day of adventure, another day of pushing my limits and expanding my horizons. I'll also make sure to buy those binoculars I forgot; I don't want to miss a single detail of this incredible landscape. Until then, I'll close my eyes and dream of ice and snow, of towering peaks and ancient stories, of the soul of the Andes.

And as I drift off to sleep, I am reminded of a quote I once read by the great Peruvian writer, José María Arguedas:

All the bloods, all the souls, fused together, all equal, can overwhelm the unhappiness and lift up our country.

It's a beautiful sentiment, one that captures the spirit of this land and its people. And it's a sentiment that I will carry with me as I continue my journey through Peru.

I can't wait for what tomorrow brings.