Family Adventure in Skaftafell National Park

Skaftafell's Embrace

After months of anticipation, our family adventure in Iceland has finally begun! Today marked our arrival in Skaftafell National Park, and the sheer beauty of this place is already exceeding my expectations. From the moment we set foot on Icelandic soil, the dramatic landscapes have captivated us. The crisp, clean air, the vast expanse of glaciers, and the promise of hidden waterfalls have ignited a sense of adventure in all of us. I’m excited to share our first day's experiences, navigating trails, marveling at icy wonders, and savoring local flavors with Ana and Luka by my side.

Our journey to Skaftafell was an experience in itself. Leaving Zurich behind, we boarded our flight to Reykjavik, eager to trade the familiar Swiss Alps for Iceland's volcanic vistas. The drive from Reykjavik to Skaftafell unveiled a landscape unlike any I've ever seen. Rolling green hills met jagged volcanic rock, and the distant horizon was punctuated by the shimmering ice caps of glaciers. Even Luka, usually glued to his tablet, was mesmerized by the scenery unfolding outside the car window. Ana and I exchanged excited glances, knowing this trip would be one for the books.

Our first order of business upon arrival was to fuel up for the day's adventures. We headed to Saatvik Restaurant (Kaffiterían Skaftafelli) for breakfast. The reviews I'd read online were mixed, but we were pleasantly surprised. I opted for a hearty portion of their soup, while Ana enjoyed a traditional Icelandic pastry. Luka, of course, chose the vegan cheesecake. He said it tasted too much like frosting. The restaurant itself was cozy and welcoming, a perfect spot to gather our energy before hitting the trails.

With our bellies full, we set off on the Svartifoss Trail. The weather in Skaftafell in June is quite pleasant, with temperatures hovering around 10°C, but we made sure to pack layers, as the Icelandic saying goes, you can experience all four seasons in one day. The trail began easily enough, winding through a lush green campsite before gradually ascending. I remembered reading that the hike is considered easy to moderate, and I found that to be accurate. It was just enough to get our blood pumping, but not so strenuous that Luka couldn't keep up.

As we hiked, we passed by two other waterfalls, Hundafoss and Magnúsarfoss, each with its own unique charm. But it was Svartifoss that we were most eager to see. Finally, after about 45 minutes of hiking, we reached the famed waterfall. And it was even more breathtaking in person than in the photos I'd seen. The water cascaded down from a height of about 20 meters, framed by striking black basalt columns that resembled the pipes of a giant organ. The hexagonal columns, formed from slow-cooled lava, were truly a sight to behold. It was easy to see why this natural architecture inspired the design of Iceland's National Theatre and Hallgrímskirkja church in Reykjavík.

Nature's artistry is often the most inspiring, and Svartifoss is a testament to that.

We spent a good hour at Svartifoss, taking photos and simply soaking in the beauty of our surroundings. Luka was fascinated by the sharp rocks at the base of the waterfall, remnants of the hexagonal columns that had broken off over time. Ana, ever the architect, was captivated by the intricate formations of the basalt columns. I found myself lost in the symphony of the waterfall, the rushing water a constant reminder of the power and beauty of nature.

After our fill of Svartifoss, we decided to extend our hike to Skaftafellsjökull. The trail to the glacier was well-marked and relatively easy, leading us through a landscape of volcanic sand and moss-covered rocks. As we approached the glacier, the temperature dropped noticeably, and we were grateful for our warm layers. Skaftafellsjökull is an outlet glacier of the vast Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe. The sheer scale of the ice was awe-inspiring, a reminder of the immense forces that have shaped this landscape over millennia.

I had considered booking a glacier hike, but with Luka in tow, we opted for a more leisurely approach. We walked as close to the glacier as we could safely get, marveling at the crevasses and ice formations. I made a mental note to perhaps return another time for a guided glacier hike or even an ice climbing adventure. I learned that there are several options for guided tours, some even including ice cave explorations. That's definitely something I'd be interested in experiencing!

By this point, we were all feeling quite peckish, so we made our way to Glacier Goodies for a quick lunch. This fast-food spot is conveniently located in Skaftafell and offers a variety of options. We opted for burgers and fries, a simple but satisfying meal that hit the spot. I'd read that the portions are generous, and that was certainly the case. Luka was particularly happy with his burger, declaring it the best he'd had in a long time. I appreciated the casual atmosphere and the opportunity to refuel before our next adventure.

Our final stop for the day was the Skaftafell shop. We wanted to pick up a few souvenirs to remember our trip, and the shop had a nice selection of local crafts and Icelandic goods. Luka chose a small stuffed puffin, while Ana found a beautiful woolen scarf. I settled on a book about Icelandic folklore, eager to learn more about the myths and legends of this fascinating land.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Pakkhús Restaurant in Höfn for dinner. Although it was a bit of a drive from Skaftafell, I had heard rave reviews about their langoustine, and I was eager to try it. Pakkhús is located in an old warehouse overlooking the harbor, giving it a cozy and authentic atmosphere. We arrived without a reservation, but luckily, we were able to snag a table after a short wait in their comfortable bar area. I ordered the langoustine, and it was indeed delicious, some of the freshest seafood in all of Iceland. Ana opted for the lamb, which was equally flavorful. Luka, surprisingly, chose the fish soup and really enjoyed it. The service was excellent, and the overall experience was top-notch.

Reflecting on our first day in Skaftafell, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude and excitement. The beauty of this place is truly remarkable, and I feel so fortunate to be able to share this experience with my family. From the cascading waters of Svartifoss to the icy expanse of Skaftafellsjökull, every moment has been a feast for the senses. And the local flavors we've savored along the way have added another layer of richness to our adventure. We did forget to pack our portable phone charger and sunglasses, but that is a minor setback considering the day we have had.

Tomorrow, we're heading to Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. I've seen countless photos of this iconic location, and I can't wait to witness it in person. We'll be taking a boat tour of the lagoon and exploring the ice-strewn shores of Diamond Beach. I'm also looking forward to trying the Fjallsárlón Frost Restaurant for dinner. I have heard great things about the restaurant. I have a feeling tomorrow will be another day filled with unforgettable moments. Until then, good night from Skaftafell!

This trip is not just a vacation; it's an investment in family memories, a chance to disconnect from our busy lives and reconnect with each other and with nature. As a software engineer working in the fast-paced world of fintech, I often find myself consumed by screens and deadlines. This trip is an opportunity to step away from all of that, to breathe in the fresh air, and to appreciate the simple beauty of the world around us. And as a father, I want to instill in Luka a sense of wonder and curiosity, a love for exploration, and a deep respect for the environment. I believe that travel is one of the best ways to achieve this, and I'm excited to see what the rest of our Icelandic adventure holds. I'm also hoping to make up for my technological shortcomings by capturing some amazing photos of our journey. I may not be a professional photographer, but I'm eager to hone my skills and document our experiences in a way that will allow us to relive them for years to come.

Ana, with her architectural eye, is particularly excited about seeing the interplay of natural elements and design in Iceland. She's been sketching in her notebook, capturing the shapes and forms of the glaciers and waterfalls. I know that this trip will inspire her creativity and provide her with fresh perspectives for her work. And Luka, with his boundless energy and curiosity, is soaking everything in, asking questions, and making observations that often surprise and delight us. It's moments like these that make me realize how important it is to prioritize family time and to create shared experiences that will shape our lives for years to come.

As I write this, I can hear the gentle sounds of the Icelandic night outside our window. The air is still and peaceful, and I feel a deep sense of contentment. I'm grateful for this opportunity to explore Iceland with my family, to create memories that will last a lifetime, and to share our experiences with you, my readers. I hope that our journey will inspire you to embark on your own adventures, to discover the beauty of the world, and to cherish the moments you share with your loved ones. And who knows, maybe one day we'll cross paths on a trail somewhere in the world! Until then, stay tuned for more updates from our Icelandic adventure. Good night!