Solo Adventure in Þórsmörk: Exploring Iceland's Wilderness

Chasing Volcanoes and Obsidian Dreams

Today was a day of dramatic landscapes and geothermal wonders, perfectly encapsulating the raw beauty of Iceland. I set out to explore the volcanic heart of Þórsmörk, eager to witness the unique formations and steaming vents I had read so much about. The weather was kind, a gentle breeze and soft sunlight filtering through the clouds, creating an ethereal atmosphere that made every view a photographer's dream.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Volcano Huts Húsadalur. The buffet was a welcome sight, offering homemade bread, eggs, and fresh fruit. Fuelled up, I felt ready to tackle the trails. The Volcano Huts are nestled right in Húsadalur Valley in the Þórsmörk Nature Reserve, making it an ideal starting point for any hike. I grabbed a hiking map from the reception, where the staff were incredibly helpful in suggesting routes.


Discover tranquility and adventure at Volcano Huts Húsadalur, your gateway to Iceland's majestic landscapes and authentic local cuisine.

First on the agenda was Tindfjöll, a mountain range that promised stunning panoramic views. The name 'Tindfjöll' translates to 'Peak Mountains,' which seemed fitting as I gazed up at the rugged terrain. The trail wound through lush vegetation, gradually ascending to reveal breathtaking vistas of the surrounding valleys. I paused frequently, snapping photos of the landscape bathed in the morning light. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of damp earth and wildflowers. It was a challenging hike, but the views were more than worth the effort.


Explore the breathtaking beauty of Tindfjöll, a majestic mountain peak in Iceland, perfect for hiking, photography, and nature exploration.

The beauty of Iceland lies not just in its grand landscapes, but in the intricate details that tell a story of fire and ice.

As I hiked, I thought about Liam back in Canmore. He would have loved this. We've tackled so many trails together in the Rockies, but Iceland has a unique allure that I know he'd appreciate. I made a mental note to plan a trip back here with him; he would especially enjoy the challenging climbs and the stunning photographic opportunities. I remembered the small scar above my left eyebrow, a memento from a childhood adventure in Denmark. It was a reminder of my adventurous spirit, something Liam always admires.

After a few hours of hiking, I made my way toward Hrafntinnusker, a mountain peak known for its geothermal activity and obsidian formations. The landscape shifted dramatically, from green valleys to a surreal, almost lunar terrain. Steam vents dotted the area, hissing and puffing as if the earth itself was breathing. The ground was covered in shimmering black volcanic glass, a stark contrast to the pale, steaming landscape.


Discover the stunning beauty of Hrafntinnusker, an iconic mountain peak in the Icelandic Highlands, known for its unique obsidian formations and breathtaking views.

Hrafntinnusker, also known as Obsidian Skerry, is part of the Torfajökull Volcanic System, one of Iceland's most active geothermal zones. The isolation and high elevation of the area gave it a raw, untouched character. There are no roads to Hrafntinnusker Mountain Peak, so it's only accessible by hiking.

The hike to Hrafntinnusker was otherworldly. Patches of snow lingered even in May, creating a stark contrast with the boiling vents. I carefully navigated the terrain, mindful of the geothermal activity beneath my feet. The views were expansive, stretching across the Fjallabak Nature Reserve. I imagined what it must be like in winter, completely covered in snow. I've seen photos of ice caves near glaciers, and I can only imagine how stunning they would be here.

Around midday, I stopped for lunch. I had packed a simple meal of dried fruit and nuts, which I enjoyed while sitting on a rocky outcrop, soaking in the panoramic views. It was a moment of perfect solitude, just me and the Icelandic wilderness. I made sure to pack out all my trash, leaving no trace behind. Sustainability is a big part of how Liam and I travel, and I always try to minimize my impact on the environment. I even chastised myself for forgetting my portable phone charger; capturing all these moments was draining my battery faster than expected.

As the afternoon wore on, I began my descent, heading back towards Þórsmörk. I decided to grab a late lunch at Restaurant Mika in Reykholt. This family-run restaurant is known for its delicious pizzas and handmade chocolates. I opted for a langoustine pizza, which was absolutely divine. The crust was perfectly crisp, and the toppings were fresh and flavorful. I also couldn't resist trying a piece of their handmade chocolate, a rich and decadent treat that was the perfect end to my meal. The owners, Mikki and Bozena, were incredibly welcoming, making me feel right at home.


Experience the culinary magic of Restaurant Mika in Reykholt—where fresh ingredients meet delightful flavors in every dish.

With a full stomach and a happy heart, I returned to Þórsmörk. For dinner, I chose Valhalla Restaurant, drawn in by its Viking-themed ambiance. The restaurant is designed to resemble an ancient Viking food hall, complete with rustic decor and long wooden tables. I ordered the traditional lamb soup, a hearty and flavorful dish that warmed me from the inside out. The atmosphere was lively, with fellow travelers sharing stories of their adventures. It felt like a true taste of Icelandic culture.


Experience Viking-inspired cuisine at Valhalla Restaurant in Hvolsvöllur—where history meets culinary excellence.

To cap off the evening, I ventured to Lundinn (Original Puffin Bar) for a nightcap. This cozy pub is a local favorite, known for its friendly atmosphere and selection of local beers. I struck up a conversation with a few locals, learning about their lives and traditions. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences. The bar was bustling, and I enjoyed a local beer while listening to some Icelandic music. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and adventure.


Experience the lively ambiance of Lundinn (Original Puffin Bar), the go-to pub in Vestmannaeyjabær for drinks, games, and local culture.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to explore Reynisfjall and Sólheimajökull. Reynisfjall is known for its stunning black sand beach and basalt columns, while Sólheimajökull is a glacier where I'm hoping to do some ice climbing. I'll start the day with breakfast at Volcano Huts Húsadalur again, followed by lunch at the Black Beach Restaurant. For dinner, I'm planning to visit Vogafjós Farm Resort, where I can enjoy a meal made with fresh, local ingredients. I might even check out Vík Market / Saga Wool for a souvenir or two.

As I settle into my tent tonight, I'm filled with gratitude for the experiences of the day. Iceland continues to surprise and inspire me, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. This solo adventure is turning out to be everything I had hoped for and more.

I am falling asleep with a smile on my face, already dreaming of black beaches, glaciers, and perhaps even a glimpse of the Northern Lights. Even though it’s May, one can always hope. I am so glad I decided to come here!