Solo Adventure in the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Finding Peace in Yakushima's Embrace

Today was a day of contrasts, blending the serenity of sacred spaces with the simple joys of nature. It’s amazing how a single day on this island can feel like a complete journey in itself. I started with a visit to a local shrine, followed by the calming waves of a beautiful beach, and ended with a taste of local life at the island market. It was a day of exploration and introspection.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at hiyoriya. I really enjoyed the authentic Japanese cuisine, setting the tone for a day of cultural immersion. After breakfast, I decided to visit the Yakushima Shrine.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual essence of Yakushima Shrine, a tranquil Shinto sanctuary surrounded by ancient trees and nature's wonders.

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A Visit to Yakushima Shrine

The Yakushima Shrine, also known as Yaku-jinja, is an ancient guardian shrine on the island. Nestled near the mouth of the Miyauragawa River, it exudes a sense of calm and history. The shrine is dedicated to Amatsu Hikohikohoho de no Mikoto, a deity from Japanese mythology. As I approached, the air was filled with the gentle sounds of nature, a stark contrast to the bustling city life I'm used to back in Heidelberg. The open-mouthed and closed-mouthed stone guardian statues, created in the mid-nineteenth century, stand proudly on the grounds, embodying the island's rich cultural heritage.

The shrine's history dates back to the syncretization with Buddhism during the Sengoku period, and it was later revived in the Edo era after being destroyed during World War II. This resilience speaks volumes about the enduring spirit of the local community. I learned that the shrine is considered the guardian shrine of the islanders, with an inner shrine located at the summit of Mount Miyanoura, reflecting Yakushima's deep-rooted culture of mountain worship. It’s fascinating how the islanders still practice the traditional Take-mairi, climbing the peak in a fusion of ancient mountain worship and Shinto.

As I walked through the precincts, I noticed the simple yet spacious layout, which added to the serene atmosphere. The small bamboo forest nearby provided a tranquil backdrop for reflection. I purchased a climbing charm, a small token to remind me of my adventures here and to bring a bit of Yakushima’s spirit with me. Taking a moment to appreciate the tranquility, I reflected on the journey so far. Yakushima has a way of slowing things down, allowing for introspection amidst its natural beauty. It's a far cry from my usual life of coding and deadlines, but it’s a welcome change of pace. Greta would have loved this place, I think to myself. Perhaps we can come back here together one day. I know she'd find inspiration in the blend of nature and spirituality.

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Inakahama Beach: Sun, Sand, and Sea Turtles

After a morning of quiet contemplation, I was ready for some sun and sea. I made my way to Inakahama Beach, a beautiful stretch of sand on the northwest shore of Yakushima. Known as the largest nesting site for loggerhead sea turtles in Japan, Inakahama Beach is a place where nature’s wonders unfold. Although it’s the nesting season, visitors are advised to join an observation group to protect the turtles and their habitat.


Experience the tranquility of Inakahama Beach in Yakushima, where breathtaking sunsets and crystal-clear waters await every traveler.

As I arrived, the beach was relatively quiet, with only a few other people dotting the shoreline. The sand was soft and white, and the water was crystal clear. I took off my shoes and strolled along the beach, feeling the gentle waves caress my feet. The views were stunning, with the lush green mountains providing a dramatic backdrop to the turquoise sea. It was the perfect spot to unwind and soak in the natural beauty of Yakushima. I could see Kuchinoerabu Island in the distance, with its active volcano, Mt. Shindake, adding to the picturesque scenery.

Sometimes, the best travel experiences are the ones where you simply allow yourself to be present, to feel the earth beneath your feet and the sun on your skin.

I spent a couple of hours simply relaxing on the beach, reading a book and listening to the soothing sounds of the waves. The gentle sea breeze and warm sun made it easy to forget about the stresses of everyday life. I even took a dip in the ocean, which was surprisingly refreshing. The water was so clear that I could see small fish swimming around my legs. Knowing that sea turtles frequent this beach to lay their eggs added a special significance to the visit. It’s a reminder of the delicate balance of nature and the importance of preserving these habitats. I made a mental note to read more about sea turtle conservation efforts when I got back to Heidelberg.

For lunch, I stopped by Hachiman, a local restaurant known for its authentic cuisine and warm hospitality. I opted for a traditional Japanese meal, savoring the fresh sashimi and fried chicken skewers. The cozy atmosphere and friendly service made the experience even more enjoyable. It’s these small, local eateries that often provide the most memorable culinary experiences.

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Exploring Yakushima Market

In the late afternoon, I decided to explore the Yakushima Market, a local hub where you can find a variety of crafts and fresh produce. Eager to support local artisans and sample some of Yakushima's famous flavors, I headed to Yakushima Market. This bustling spot is a treasure trove of unique finds, from handcrafted woodwork to locally grown fruits and vegetables. The market is a vibrant reflection of the island's culture and community.


Discover the vibrant Yakushima Market, where local crafts and fresh produce come together for an authentic shopping experience.

As I wandered through the stalls, I was immediately drawn to the colorful displays of fresh produce. Tankan, a local citrus fruit packed with vitamin C, was abundant. I sampled some of the premium tankan juice, its pure taste and health benefits making it a popular souvenir. I also discovered Yakushima Nagata Salt Cookies, handmade crackers made with natural salt produced by boiling local seawater. Their name and shape pay homage to Nagata Beach, famous as the primary nesting place for sea turtles in Japan.

The market was also a great place to find unique souvenirs. I picked up a few small wooden carvings, each one a testament to the skill and artistry of the local craftsmen. I also found some locally made ginger syrup, known for its health benefits and made with ginger grown without pesticides. It’s these authentic, locally sourced products that make travel so rewarding.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I had dinner at Il Mare, a restaurant recommended for its Italian cuisine with a local twist. I savored seafood dishes sourced from the surrounding waters, along with pasta and pizza crafted with local venison. It was a delightful way to end the day, enjoying a fusion of flavors that reflected the island's diverse offerings.

As the day wound down, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences Yakushima had offered. The island had a unique way of blending tranquility with adventure, spirituality with nature. It was a day of contrasts, yet everything seemed to flow together seamlessly. I felt a sense of peace and contentment that I hadn't experienced in a long time. I decided to visit Cafe＆Bar RainTree tomorrow evening, before I leave Yakushima.

Tomorrow marks the end of my solo adventure in Yakushima. I plan to visit the Yakushima Visitor Centre to learn more about the island's unique ecosystem. I'm also hoping to experience the Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen, a natural hot spring that can only be accessed during low tide. It sounds like the perfect way to end my trip, soaking in the healing waters and reflecting on all that I’ve seen and learned. As I prepare to leave this enchanting island, I know that the memories and experiences will stay with me long after I return to Heidelberg. Yakushima has a way of leaving a lasting impression, a gentle reminder of the beauty and simplicity that can be found in nature.

This trip has reminded me of the importance of disconnecting from the digital world and reconnecting with nature. It’s something I want to incorporate more into my life back in Germany. Perhaps Greta and I can explore more of the Odenwald Forest, or even plan a longer hiking trip in the Alps. The possibilities are endless, and I’m excited to see what adventures await.

For now, I’ll cherish the memories of Yakushima – the ancient forests, the pristine beaches, and the warm hospitality of the locals. It’s a place that has touched my heart and soul, and I know I’ll be back someday.