Solo Art Adventure in Naoshima Island

Day 4: Finding Harmony in Art and Community

Today on Naoshima Island was a journey of contrasts, blending the serenity of spiritual art with the lively warmth of communal bathing and the comforting flavors of local cuisine. From the ethereal depths of the Art House Project's Go'o Shrine to the vibrant atmosphere of the 'I Love Yu' public bathhouse, every experience deepened my appreciation for this island's unique approach to art and life.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Naoshima Yokocho. It's always a pleasure to start the day with good food. Fuelled up, I made my way to the Go'o Shrine, part of the renowned Art House Project. The Art House Project is a contemporary art movement in the Honmura neighborhood that involves transforming the insides of traditional houses into contemporary art works. Nestled on a hill overlooking the sea, the shrine was a place of worship for the local community, but it has been reconstructed with artistic elements, transforming it into a work of art in itself. The fusion of traditional shrine architecture with modern art was striking. The glass staircase connecting the above and below ground spaces created an ethereal atmosphere, enhanced by the natural light filtering through.

Descending into the underground chamber, I felt a sense of peace wash over me. The interplay of light and shadow invited contemplation, a dialogue between the visible and the unseen. It was a deeply immersive experience, a testament to the power of art to transform spaces and perceptions. I took my time here, sketching in my notebook and absorbing the tranquility. The sun was high in the sky, but down in that chamber, time seemed to slow.

Art transcends mere aesthetics; it invites us to explore the depths of our own consciousness and connect with the world around us in profound ways.

For lunch, I headed over to Kinosaki Udon Naoshima, a modern black building located a short walk from Miyanoura Port. I was eager to try their famous handmade udon. The cozy eatery was filled with locals, always a good sign. I ordered the Niku Udon (meat udon). The firm, chewy noodles were perfectly complemented by the broth, which was infused with the savory flavor of sweet and salty simmered beef—an irresistible and rich taste that kept you coming back for more. As a self-service udon shop, I chose my favorite side dishes. Chikuwa, shrimp, eggs, and more—all looked delicious and pair perfectly with the udon.

After lunch, I decided to explore Mikazukishoten, a charming coffee stand located on the picturesque island of Naoshima. It's renowned for its vibrant art scene and unique cultural ambiance. This delightful spot serves as both a coffee shop and souvenir store, making it an ideal stop for tourists looking to indulge in high-quality brews while picking up a piece of local craftsmanship. The coffee was superb, and I picked up a few postcards to send back home to Klara and Naomi. Perhaps Naomi would like to see some of this art one day.

As the afternoon wore on, it was time for a uniquely Naoshima experience: the 'I Love Yu' public bathhouse. Just a short walk from the ferry terminal, this public bath house was designed by artist Shinro Ohtake—also known for “Haisha” in the Art House Project. I had heard so much about this place, a sento that doubles as an art installation, and I was keen to experience it for myself. I Love Yu is a combination of contemporary art installation and public bath house (sento), where visitors can experience bathing in the artwork. From the outside, it's a riot of colour and quirky design. The walls, adorned with colorful mosaic tiles, a giant elephant statue, and a prominent “YU” sign, are all part of its distinctive charm.

Stepping inside, I was immediately struck by the vibrant, almost chaotic, atmosphere. Every surface was covered in intricate designs, collages, and found objects. It was like stepping into a living, breathing artwork. Shedding my inhibitions (and my clothes!), I embraced the communal spirit and slipped into the steaming water. It was surprisingly relaxing, soaking in the warmth while surrounded by such playful and imaginative art. I even got chatting with a local, who shared some tips about other hidden gems on the island. Apparently, there's a fantastic view from the top of Mount Miyanoura, something to consider for the coming days.

Before heading back to My Lodge Naoshima, I stopped for dinner at Raumen Tsumu. Raumen Tsumu is a hidden gem in Japan, offering the best ramen with true flavors and perfect spice levels. The spicy curry ramen is a must-try, and the ginger pork set meal with miso soup and rice is delightful. This local mom-and-pop establishment was buzzing with activity, filled with locals and tourists alike. I ordered their signature ramen, a rich and flavorful broth with perfectly cooked noodles and tender pork. It was the perfect way to end a day of artistic and cultural immersion. I opted for the spicy curry ramen and it was indeed a taste sensation.

As I walked back, the island was quiet, the stars beginning to emerge in the clear night sky. I reflected on the day's experiences, the blend of art, spirituality, and community that makes Naoshima so special. I'm looking forward to tomorrow, where I plan to visit Kadoya in the Art House Project and the Honmura Lounge & Archive. I'm also planning to try Akaito Coffee for breakfast, Yuunagi for lunch and Okonomiyaki Umikko for dinner. Maybe I'll even check out Naoshima Yokocho bar for a nightcap. Until then, goodnight from Naoshima!

Tomorrow promises more artistic discoveries and culinary delights, and I can't wait to share them with you all. I think I'll sleep well tonight.