Solo Art Adventure in Naoshima Island

Discovering Honmura's Soul

Today was all about diving deep into the heart of Honmura, a charming village on Naoshima that holds so much of the island's artistic soul. It's a place where art isn't just displayed, it's woven into the fabric of everyday life, blending seamlessly with the traditional homes and the rhythm of the island. I was keen to explore the Art House Project and soak in the local atmosphere.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Akaito Coffee. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee alone was enough to get me going. It's a cozy spot near the ferry port, and I knew I needed a good dose of caffeine before embarking on my artistic journey. I ordered their signature Akaito blend, a rich and smooth coffee that paired perfectly with their egg toast. The cafe itself is decorated with upcycled materials, giving it a unique and homey vibe. It felt like the perfect place to start the day, surrounded by locals and fellow travelers alike.


Discover Akaito Coffee on Naoshima Island, where art, literature, and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee create an unforgettable experience.
Fueled up and ready to go, I headed to the Honmura Lounge & Archive. This place is the central hub for the Art House Project, and it’s where you get your tickets and information. The staff were incredibly helpful, providing detailed explanations of each art house and giving me a map to navigate the village. The lounge itself is housed in a remodeled building that used to be a supermarket, giving it a unique and inviting atmosphere. It’s also a great place to pick up souvenirs and local crafts.


Explore Naoshima's artistic essence at Honmura Lounge & Archive, where culture meets relaxation amidst stunning landscapes.
With my ticket in hand, I set off to explore the Art House Project, starting with Kadoya. This was the first Art House to be created, and it’s located in one of the largest houses in Honmura. The exterior has been traditionally restored, complete with charred boards and a tiled roof, giving it a sense of history and authenticity. Inside, there are two site-specific works by Japanese digital artist Tatsuo Miyajima. The first, Sea of Time '98, features a shallow pool with LED counters submerged in the water, each counting from one through nine at different speeds. It’s a mesmerizing and thought-provoking piece that explores the passage of time and the unique perspectives of the island's inhabitants. Miyajima actually involved residents, ranging from five to 95 years old, to set the speed of the counters according to their own perception of time.


Explore the harmonious blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Naoshima's Art House Project: Kadoya.

Art isn't just something you see; it's something you experience, something that becomes a part of you.

After immersing myself in the digital world of Kadoya, I decided to grab some lunch at Yuunagi. I was in the mood for some fresh seafood, and this restaurant came highly recommended. It's conveniently located near the port, making it a popular spot for both locals and tourists. I ordered their special fried fish dish, and it was absolutely delicious. The fish was perfectly crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, and the accompanying soup was flavorful and comforting. The owners were incredibly kind and welcoming, making me feel right at home. It was the perfect place to recharge before continuing my artistic explorations.


Discover Yuunagi: A Seafood Haven on Naoshima Island Offering Authentic Japanese Teishoku Cuisine.
With renewed energy, I ventured back into the Art House Project, eager to discover more hidden gems. The beauty of this project is that it’s integrated into the everyday pathways of Honmura, making it feel like you’re stumbling upon art as you wander through the village. The houses themselves are often indistinguishable from the residences and businesses surrounding them, blurring the lines between museum, sacred space, public place, and home.

As the sun began to set, I made my way to Naoshima Yokocho, a local bar known for its relaxed atmosphere and izakaya-style dishes. I was hoping to mingle with some locals and get a better sense of the island's community. The bar was bustling with activity, and I managed to strike up a conversation with a few friendly residents. They shared stories about the island's history, its art scene, and their own experiences living in this unique place. It was a truly immersive experience, and I felt a deep connection to the island and its people. I sampled a few of their tofu and vegetable dishes, which were quite tasty.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Naoshima Yokocho, an izakaya that captures the essence of Naoshima's culinary culture amidst stunning art and nature.
Tomorrow, I plan to explore Miyanoura Gallery 6 and then hop on a ferry to Teshima to visit the Teshima Art Museum. I'm looking forward to seeing more of the art that this region has to offer. Before heading back to My Lodge Naoshima, I decided to visit Okonomiyaki Umikko for dinner. This family-run restaurant is known for its delicious okonomiyaki, a savory pancake that's a staple of Japanese cuisine. The owners were incredibly friendly, and they recommended their Umikko Special, which was loaded with seafood and vegetables. It was the perfect way to end a day of artistic exploration and cultural immersion. As I savored the last bite of my okonomiyaki, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences I had today. Naoshima is more than just an art island; it's a place where art, nature, and community come together to create something truly special. It's a place that nourishes the soul and inspires the imagination.


Savor authentic okonomiyaki at Okonomiyaki Umikko on Naoshima Island—where every bite celebrates local flavors and culinary artistry.
Walking back to my lodge, I reflected on the day. The Art House Project is more than just art; it’s a way of life here. The way the community embraces and integrates art into their daily routines is truly inspiring. It's a reminder that art isn't just something you see in a museum; it's something you experience, something that becomes a part of you. And as I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but wonder what other hidden gems Naoshima had in store for me. I'm looking forward to Teshima tomorrow. I've heard great things about the Teshima Art Museum and I'm eager to explore another facet of the Seto Inland Sea's art scene. I'm also planning to stop by the Art Island Center to pick up a few more souvenirs before heading back to Berlin. It's been an incredible journey so far, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

I did miss Klara and Naomi today. I know they would have loved exploring the art houses and trying the local cuisine. I made a mental note to bring them back here someday, so they can experience the magic of Naoshima for themselves. Maybe next time, we can visit during the Setouchi Triennale, which I heard is an incredible art event that takes place every three years. I think Naomi would especially love the colorful and whimsical installations that are scattered throughout the island. And Klara, with her keen eye for design and architecture, would appreciate the way the art is integrated into the natural landscape.

As I settle into my cozy room at My Lodge Naoshima, I can't help but feel a sense of gratitude for this incredible experience. Naoshima has a way of captivating your senses and inspiring your soul. It's a place where art, nature, and community come together to create something truly special. And I'm so grateful to have had the opportunity to immerse myself in its beauty and charm. I'm looking forward to tomorrow's adventure on Teshima, but I know that I'll always carry a piece of Naoshima with me, wherever I go. Maybe I'll even try to incorporate some of its artistic spirit into my restaurant in Berlin, creating a space that not only serves delicious Jamaican food but also inspires creativity and connection.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.
One thing I forgot to pack was my Japanese phrasebook. I've been relying on my limited Japanese and the kindness of the locals, but it would have been helpful to have a few more phrases under my belt. I'll definitely remember to bring it next time. And speaking of next time, I'm already planning my return trip to Naoshima. There's so much more to explore, so many more hidden gems to discover. And I can't wait to share it all with my family.