A Family Pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Day 6: Finding Peace in Ancient Waters

Today was a day of quiet reflection and rejuvenation along the Kumano Kodo. We immersed ourselves in the spiritual heart of this pilgrimage, finding peace in ancient waters and the simple beauty of the trail. It’s days like these that remind me why we embarked on this journey in the first place – to connect with something deeper, both within ourselves and the world around us.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. The cozy atmosphere and the promise of a traditional Japanese breakfast was the perfect way to fuel up for the day’s adventures. Elena particularly enjoyed the vegan options, and Miguel was excited about the prospect of a full day of exploration. I savored the strong coffee, a comforting ritual that always helps me center myself before a day of hiking.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.
With our stomachs full and spirits high, we set off to explore Tsugizakura-Oji. This site is steeped in history. The air was thick with the scent of cedar, and the towering trees seemed to whisper stories of centuries past. It's incredible to think that pilgrims have been walking these paths for over a thousand years. Miguel, ever the history enthusiast, was captivated by the tales of the grafted cherry tree, a rare sight documented in an 1109 diary entry. The branches of the trees all point south towards the sacred Nachi Falls.


Experience tranquility and cultural heritage at Tsugizakura-Oji, a captivating Shinto shrine in Wakayama's lush landscapes.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it’s a journey through time, a pathway to self-discovery, and a testament to the enduring power of faith and nature.

After our visit to Tsugizakura-Oji, we made our way to Yunomine Onsen, home to Tsubo-yu. This tiny bathhouse is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is known as Japan's oldest hot spring. Only two people can bathe at a time, making it a very intimate experience. The water is known for its healing properties and changes color several times a day. Elena and I took turns soaking in the warm waters, feeling the stress of our everyday lives melt away. Miguel, always eager for new experiences, found the changing colors of the water particularly fascinating.


Experience the serene beauty of Tsubo-yu, a historic onsen in Tanabe, Wakayama, known for its mineral-rich waters and tranquil atmosphere.
“This place is amazing, Dad,” he said, “It feels like we’re stepping back in time.”

I had to agree. Sitting there, I couldn’t help but think about all the pilgrims who had soaked in these same waters, seeking physical and spiritual cleansing. It was a humbling and deeply moving experience.

For lunch, we stopped at Hinoki Steak House , a local establishment renowned for its Kumano beef. I opted for the Wagyu steak, while Elena enjoyed a tuna hamburger. Miguel, of course, chose the classic Kumano beef hamburger steak, declaring it one of the best he’d ever had. The restaurant had a classic feel, and the service was top-notch. It was a delightful culinary experience that perfectly complemented our day of exploration.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.
In the afternoon, we visited Kumano-Nachi Taisha. While Elena and Miguel explored the shrine, I took the opportunity to visit some of the local shops. I was looking for a special memento of our trip and found a beautiful Nachiguro inkstone at Yamaguchi Kohodo. These inkstones are made from black stone unique to the area and are considered Wakayama Prefecture souvenirs. I knew it would be a treasured reminder of our time on the Kumano Kodo.


Discover the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a must-visit Shinto shrine in Japan's stunning Wakayama mountains.
Before dinner, we took a leisurely stroll around the area, soaking in the atmosphere and enjoying the beautiful scenery. The late spring weather was perfect, with a gentle breeze and the warm sun. It was a peaceful and serene end to a day filled with reflection and rejuvenation.

For dinner, we chose Takehara , a restaurant known for its tuna dishes. Katsuura is a fishing port known for its fresh tuna. We savored the flavors of the sea, enjoying the freshest sashimi and grilled tuna. It was the perfect way to end a day of pilgrimage, with a delicious meal and the company of my loved ones.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.
As I reflect on today’s experiences, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to walk this sacred path with my family. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it’s a journey through time, a pathway to self-discovery, and a testament to the enduring power of faith and nature. It's a reminder of the importance of slowing down, connecting with the present moment, and appreciating the simple blessings in our lives.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Koyazaka Slope and Tokei Shrine. I'm looking forward to another day of discovery and reflection on this remarkable pilgrimage.

I'm also eager to try KUMANOYASAI CAFE for breakfast. I've heard they have some delicious and healthy options. Perhaps we'll even end the day with a visit to Why Kumano, a local bar. It would be a great way to unwind and reflect on our experiences.

Until tomorrow, may your own journeys be filled with peace and discovery.