Family Adventure on the Beara Peninsula

Island Time on Dursey

Today was a day of rugged coastlines, windswept landscapes, and a healthy dose of Irish history. The Beara Peninsula continues to surprise and delight, offering a unique blend of tranquility and adventure. It's days like these that remind me why I started this blog – to share the hidden corners of the world and the stories they hold.

Our day began, as most good days do, with a hearty breakfast. We found ourselves at O Donnabhain's in Kenmare, a charming spot right in the heart of town. The full Irish breakfast was just what we needed to fuel our adventures. Jan, of course, went straight for the black pudding, while Aoife enjoyed the freshly baked bread. I opted for a simple poached egg, perfectly cooked and served with a smile. The staff were incredibly welcoming, making us feel right at home. It’s these small, personal touches that make a place memorable.


Experience authentic Irish cuisine and vibrant live music at O Donnabhain's in Kenmare - your gateway to local culture!

With our bellies full, we set off towards Dursey Island. The drive itself was a treat, winding through rolling hills and past vibrant green fields dotted with sheep. As we neared the coast, the landscape became more dramatic, the Atlantic stretching out before us in all its glory. The anticipation was building – Dursey Island, accessible only by cable car, promised a unique experience.

And what an experience it was! The Dursey Island cable car is Ireland's only cable car that crosses the sea, and it's quite the ride. Suspended high above the churning waters of Dursey Sound, the views were simply breathtaking. The strong tides below added an element of excitement, and I couldn't help but feel a thrill as we glided across. It's a short journey, but one that imprints itself on your memory.

The best view comes after the hardest climb.

Dursey Island itself is a world apart. It's a place of raw, untamed beauty, where the wind howls and the waves crash against the cliffs. There are no shops, pubs, or restaurants here, just a handful of houses and a sense of profound peace. We set off on foot, following the Beara Way walking trail towards the Dursey Island Signal Tower. The island is a bird watcher's paradise. I could have sworn I spotted a few rare birds from Siberia, though Jan insists I was mistaken – perhaps my imagination was simply running wild with the scenery.


Explore the majestic Dursey Island Signal Tower, a historic gem offering breathtaking views and a glimpse into Ireland's maritime past.

The Signal Tower stands proudly on the highest point of the island, offering panoramic views of the surrounding coastline. Built in the early 19th century, it was part of a chain of defenses against a potential Napoleonic invasion. Standing there, gazing out at the vast expanse of the Atlantic, I couldn't help but feel a connection to the past. It's easy to imagine the watchmen scanning the horizon, alert for any sign of danger. I explained to Aoife, with Jan adding some historical context, how these towers were crucial for communication during the Napoleonic Wars, relaying messages swiftly along the coast.

After exploring the Signal Tower, we decided to take a boat tour with Beara Boat Tours. The idea of seeing Dursey Island from the water was too tempting to resist. We drove to Garnish Pier, where we met our friendly captain and boarded the boat. The tour was fantastic! We cruised along the dramatic cliffs of Dursey Island, learning about its history and wildlife. The captain shared stories of Viking slave bases and Gaelic chieftains, bringing the island's past to life. The views of the Bull Rock, home to Ireland's largest gannet colony, were simply stunning.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Co. Cork's coast with Beara Boat Tours, where adventure meets tranquility on the stunning Beara Peninsula.

As the afternoon wore on, our stomachs began to rumble. We headed to Kenmare for a late lunch at Con's Bar and Seafood Restaurant. The seafood chowder was creamy and delicious, packed with fresh fish and shellfish. Jan opted for the fish and chips, while Aoife enjoyed a plate of mussels. It was the perfect way to refuel after a day of exploring. I was a little disappointed that there were no reviews to read beforehand, but the food was delightful and made up for the lack of information.


Experience exceptional seafood dining at Con's Bar and Seafood Restaurant in Kenmare, where fresh flavors meet breathtaking views.

In the evening, we treated ourselves to dinner at The Purple Heather Bistro & Pub in Kenmare. This family-run establishment has been around since 1961, and it's easy to see why it's so popular. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, the food was delicious, and the staff were incredibly friendly. I had the lamb stew, a hearty and comforting dish that warmed me from the inside out. Jan enjoyed the steak, while Aoife opted for the vegetarian option. As we savored our meal, we listened to some traditional Irish music, soaking up the lively atmosphere.


Experience authentic Irish hospitality at The Purple Heather Bistro & Pub in Kenmare with delightful dishes and local brews.

Before heading back to our B&B, we stopped by Skippers Bar in Allihies for a nightcap. The bar was buzzing with locals and tourists alike, all enjoying the craic. I ordered a pint of Guinness, while Jan opted for a local craft beer. We chatted with some of the locals, learning about the history of the area and sharing stories of our travels. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.


Experience the warmth of Skippers Bar in Castletown-Bearhaven, Co. Cork, where great drinks and an inviting atmosphere await.

Reflecting on the day, I am reminded of the simple pleasures of travel – the stunning scenery, the delicious food, the friendly people, and the sense of discovery. The Beara Peninsula has captured my heart, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. Tomorrow, we plan to visit Ballydonegan Beach in Allihies and The Mare's Tail Waterfall, so more outdoor adventures await!

As we prepare for another day of exploration, I am filled with a sense of gratitude. This trip with Jan and Aoife is more than just a vacation; it's a chance to reconnect with my Irish roots and create lasting memories. And who knows, maybe I'll even spot a few more Siberian birds along the way.