Family Adventure on the Beara Peninsula

Farewell, Beara!

As our Beara Peninsula adventure draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the incredible journey we’ve had. From the rugged coastal drives to the charming villages and the warmth of the Irish people, this trip has been a balm for the soul. Today, we soaked up the last drops of this Emerald Isle magic, leaving with hearts full of memories and a longing to return.

Our final day began, as many others did, with a hearty breakfast at Lagom Restaurant & Accommodation Kenmare. I must say, Jan was particularly enthusiastic about their corned beef brisket hash, declaring it the best start to the day one could possibly have. I opted for something a bit lighter, but equally delicious, and we both agreed that Lagom had truly set the bar high for breakfasts during our stay. It's no wonder they've been featured as one of Ireland's best restaurants! The meticulous attention to detail that Brendan and Liz Byrne put into every aspect of their establishment is truly commendable.


Discover the perfect blend of comfort and culinary excellence at Lagom Restaurant & Accommodation in scenic Kenmare.

With our bellies full and spirits high, we set off for Bantry House, a place steeped in history and grandeur. The drive itself was a treat, offering glimpses of the stunning Bantry Bay. As we approached the house, its stately presence against the backdrop of the bay was truly impressive. I couldn't help but imagine all the stories those walls could tell. Having lived in Poland for so long, I always feel a pull toward my Irish roots, a sense of belonging that's hard to explain.


Discover the elegance of Bantry House, a historical landmark and cozy retreat in the enchanting landscapes of Co. Cork, Ireland, perfect for tourists and nature lovers.

We spent a good portion of the morning exploring Bantry House and its gardens. The house, originally built in the early 18th century, has been owned by the White family since the mid-18th century. Each room was filled with fascinating artifacts, from Gobelin tapestries to mosaics from Pompeii. Jan, with his history teacher background, was in his element, sharing historical tidbits with Aoife and me. The gardens, developed by the second Earl of Bantry and his wife Mary, were equally captivating. Seven terraces cascading down the hillside, offering breathtaking views of the bay. I was particularly taken by the hundred steps behind the house, surrounded by vibrant azaleas and rhododendrons. The restoration work, still ongoing, is a testament to the dedication to preserving this historical gem.

To travel is to take a journey into yourself.

After immersing ourselves in history at Bantry House, we decided to chase waterfalls – specifically, The Mare's Tail Waterfall. Located on the Beara Peninsula, about 4 km west of Adrigole, it was a bit of a drive, but well worth the effort. The rugged landscape leading to the waterfall was stunning, and the anticipation grew with every turn. Although there's no public access to the waterfall itself, we were able to admire it from the R572 near Adrigole. The cascading water against the backdrop of the mountains was a sight to behold. I learned that it is actually the highest waterfall in Ireland and the UK, which made the experience even more special. We took some photos, breathed in the fresh air, and soaked in the natural beauty before heading back on the road.


Discover the breathtaking Mare's Tail Waterfall in Co. Cork, a hidden gem offering stunning views, tranquil ambiance, and a taste of Ireland's natural beauty.

For lunch, we stopped at The Village Kitchen, a charming spot that came highly recommended. It turned out to be a delightful experience. The atmosphere was cozy and inviting, and the menu offered a variety of options. I opted for the fish pie with a smoked cheese mash, while Jan went for the chicken satay skewer with peanut dipping sauce. Aoife, ever the adventurous one, chose the Guinness chocolate cake with a rich chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream. We all thoroughly enjoyed our meals, and it was the perfect way to refuel after our waterfall adventure.


Experience authentic Irish cuisine at The Village Kitchen in Sneem - where local ingredients meet warm hospitality.

In the afternoon, we made a stop at The Spinning Wheel, Glengarriff. I had heard so much about this shop, and I was eager to see it for myself. It's a treasure trove of local artistry and charm, showcasing an array of handcrafted gifts that reflect the rich culture of County Cork. From exquisite pottery to delicate textiles, every item told a story. I picked up a few souvenirs for friends back in Warsaw, and Jan found a beautiful Belleek Living candle holder for his study. The staff was incredibly friendly and helpful, making our shopping experience even more enjoyable.


Discover unique handcrafted gifts and local crafts at The Spinning Wheel in Glengarriff, a charming gift shop in County Cork, Ireland.

As the day drew to a close, we headed to Bantry for our farewell dinner at The Boathouse Bistro. Located in the heart of the town, this bistro offered a cozy and relaxed atmosphere. We started with some appetizers – the fried calamari and coconut fried shrimp were a hit. For our main courses, Jan chose the braised short rib, while I opted for the pan-seared salmon. Aoife, of course, went for the pasta. Every dish was cooked to perfection, and the flavors were simply divine. It was the perfect way to end our Beara Peninsula adventure.


Discover exquisite dining at The Boathouse Bistro, where local flavors meet breathtaking views in County Kerry.

After dinner, we took a leisurely stroll through Bantry, soaking in the atmosphere of this charming town. We even popped into Ma Murphy's, a traditional Irish pub, for a pint of Guinness and some traditional Irish music. The pub was buzzing with locals and tourists alike, all enjoying the lively atmosphere. As the music filled the air, I couldn't help but feel a sense of contentment. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.

As I sit here tonight, writing this blog post, I can't help but feel a tinge of sadness that our Beara Peninsula adventure is coming to an end. But I also feel incredibly grateful for the experiences we've had, the memories we've made, and the bonds we've strengthened as a family. This trip has been a reminder of the beauty and magic of Ireland, and I know that we'll be back again soon.

Tomorrow, we begin our journey back to Warsaw, carrying with us the spirit of the Beara Peninsula. Until next time, slán go fóill!

I will miss the scenic drives, the fresh sea air, and the friendly faces we encountered along the way. And I will definitely miss the hearty Irish breakfasts! Perhaps I'll try my hand at making corned beef brisket hash when I get back home, though I doubt it will taste quite as good as the one at Lagom. Until our next adventure, farewell, Beara Peninsula. You've captured a piece of my heart, and I'll be dreaming of your rolling hills and rugged coastline for years to come. It's back to my role as a librarian specializing in Polish-Irish cultural exchange resources, but with a renewed sense of purpose and a treasure trove of stories to share.

One of the things I appreciate most about traveling is the opportunity to disconnect from the everyday and reconnect with what truly matters. This trip to the Beara Peninsula has been a perfect example of that, and I'm so grateful to have shared it with my family.

As we prepare to leave, I'm already looking forward to our next adventure. Who knows where we'll go next? But one thing is for sure: we'll continue to explore, discover, and create memories that will last a lifetime.