Pilgrimage Through the Ancient Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past

Today, Jan and I, along with our friends, embarked on a journey to Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyunohara, two sites steeped in history and spiritual significance. As a librarian specializing in cultural exchange, I'm always drawn to places where the past feels palpable, where you can almost hear the whispers of those who came before. Today was one of those days, a true pilgrimage into the heart of Japan's spiritual heritage.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. It was a quaint and cozy spot. Ms. Uzawa, the owner, is a dynamic soul who is interested in yoga, music, food, and healing, and she made us feel right at home. The cafe had a mountain-side cool vibe and overlooked the Akagi-gawa river and rice fields with mountains framing the horizon. Jan especially enjoyed the coffee, remarking that it was just the thing to prepare him for a day of exploring. After breakfast, we set off towards Kumano Hongu Taisha.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

The approach to Kumano Hongu Taisha was nothing short of awe-inspiring. Climbing the 158 stone steps to the main building, I could sense the weight of history in the fluttering streamers and towering cedar trees. The shrine is one of the three grand shrines of Kumano, and it serves as the head shrine of over 3,000 Kumano shrines across Japan. It enshrines Izanagi-Okami, the deity who gave birth to Japan, and Ketsumimiko-Okami, a benevolent deity who strives to help mankind. The current structure was relocated here from Oyunohara after the original structure was destroyed by floods in 1889.


Discover the spiritual beauty of Kumano Hongu Taisha, a historic Shinto shrine in Wakayama, Japan, renowned for its stunning architecture and serene landscapes.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

I found myself particularly drawn to the unique corridor under the verandas of the pavilions. It's a small refuge where pilgrims and ascetics would meditate, pray, and even sleep. It was in this sacred asylum that Saint Ippen Shonin was enlightened. Jan, ever the history teacher, was fascinated by the mix of Kasuga and Taisha styles in the architecture.

After exploring Kumano Hongu Taisha, we made our way to Oyunohara, the original location of the shrine. Today, it's marked by the largest Torii gate in the world, standing at an impressive 33.9 meters tall and 42 meters wide. The gate signifies the division of the secular and spiritual worlds, and as I stood beneath it, I couldn't help but feel a sense of reverence.


Discover the spiritual essence of Japan at Oyunohara, a breathtaking Shinto shrine and historical landmark nestled in the heart of Wakayama's Kumano Kodo.

Oyunohara was once a sprawling complex with five main pavilions enshrining twelve deities, a stage for music and dance, and numerous other temples and shrines. A massive flood in 1889 swept away much of this history, but the spirit of the place remains. Legend has it that the Kumano deities, in the form of three moons, descended into the branches of a giant oak tree in this clearing. It's a place where all the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes converge, a true center of faith and pilgrimage.

Adding to the spiritual ambiance, I learned that Oyunohara is sometimes illuminated during special events like the Yata-no-Hi Matsuri Fire Festival, held annually at the end of August. This festival honors the Yatagarasu crow with a fire mikoshi, Taiko drum show, dancing, and fireworks. It sounds like an incredible spectacle, and perhaps we'll have to plan another trip to witness it firsthand! The Yatagarasu, a three-legged crow, is an important symbol here, representing guidance and safe travels. It's even the symbol of the Japan Football Association.

For lunch, we stopped at Yorozuya Eatery, a charming spot known for its authentic Japanese dining experience. The staff was incredibly welcoming, and we enjoyed a delicious meal of local specialties. Jan raved about the okonomiyaki, which was made right at our table. It was a perfect way to refuel after a day of exploring.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

As the day drew to a close, we decided to treat ourselves to dinner at Hinoki Steak House. While opinions seem to be a bit varied, we were in the mood for something different after days of traditional Japanese cuisine. The steak house is known for its Kumano beef hamburgers and grilled seafood. It was a satisfying end to a day filled with history, culture, and spiritual reflection.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

To cap off the evening, we ventured to Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for a drink. This place is truly a hidden gem, offering a farm stay experience with a sun terrace, garden, and even baby goats. The hosts are incredibly welcoming, and the food is amazing. It was the perfect spot to relax and reflect on the day's adventures.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

Reflecting on our day, I am struck by the profound sense of history and spirituality that permeates Kumano Kodo. It's a place where ancient traditions are still alive, where you can connect with the past and find a sense of peace and renewal. As we prepare for tomorrow's hike to Nachi Waterfall and Kumano-Nachi Taisha, I feel grateful for the opportunity to experience this sacred journey with my friends and Jan. I am also looking forward to trying the local breakfast at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, having lunch at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, and dinner at Akihei. Perhaps, we will also stop by the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu to pick up some souvenirs.

Before heading back to our accommodation, I made a mental note to buy sunscreen and a travel guidebook, as I realized I had forgotten to pack them. It's the little things that can make a big difference on a trip like this.

Back at Jokiin in Koya, I am already anticipating what tomorrow will bring. The blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage here is simply captivating, and I can't wait to see what other treasures Kumano Kodo has in store for us.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

Tomorrow promises more breathtaking sights as we continue our pilgrimage. I am particularly excited to see Nachi Waterfall, one of Japan's tallest waterfalls, and to visit Kumano-Nachi Taisha, another of the Kumano Sanzan grand shrines.

For now, though, it's time to rest and recharge, ready for another day of exploration and discovery on the ancient trails of Kumano Kodo.