Pilgrimage Through the Ancient Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Ancients

Today, the path led us deeper into the spiritual heart of Kumano Kodo, a journey resonating with echoes of ancient pilgrims and the quiet strength of the mountains. It was a day of profound discoveries, not just of places, but of the spirit that dwells within them. The air itself seemed to hum with the energy of centuries of devotion.

Our day began, as most do here, with a hearty breakfast at Watarase onsen cafe. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and perfectly steamed rice. Jan, ever the enthusiast for local fare, opted for the cafe's specialty, a savory egg custard, declaring it a delightful start to the day. Fuelled and ready, we set off to explore the sacred sites that awaited us. I made a mental note to try and recreate some of the dishes when we return to Warsaw, perhaps adding a Polish twist to honour our home.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

Our first stop was Kumano Hayatama Taisha, one of the Kumano Sanzan, the three grand shrines of Kumano. Standing on the shores of the Kumano River, the shrine exuded a sense of peace and history. According to ancient myths, this is where the deities Kumano Hayatama no Okami and Kumano Fusumi no Okami, husband and wife, first descended to earth. The main hall, with its vibrant vermilion hues, was a sight to behold, contrasting beautifully with the surrounding greenery. We took our time to wander the grounds, admiring the meticulous craftsmanship and soaking in the tranquil atmosphere.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.

One of the highlights was the sacred Nagi tree, said to be over 1,000 years old. Its leaves, smooth and difficult to tear, are considered symbols of strong bonds and marital happiness. Jan and I each took a leaf as a keepsake, a reminder of our own enduring connection. I couldn’t help but think of Aoife and hope she too, will find such lasting love. The shrine's Treasure Hall was equally impressive, housing a collection of national treasures, including ancient artifacts and offerings from pilgrims past. It was like stepping back in time, each artifact whispering stories of faith and devotion.

The journey is the destination, and every step taken in faith is a step closer to understanding.

From Kumano Hayatama Taisha, we made our way to Kamikura Shrine, a site of even greater antiquity. Perched on the steep slopes of Mount Kamikura, reaching the shrine required a climb up 538 stone steps. The steps, irregular and challenging, tested our endurance, but the reward was well worth the effort. As I ascended, I couldn't help but think of my childhood adventures in the Connemara hills, scrambling over rocks and feeling the exhilaration of reaching the summit. The climb was a pilgrimage in itself, a physical manifestation of spiritual ascent.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

At the top, we were greeted by the Gotobiki-iwa, a massive rock believed to be the very spot where the Kumano deities first descended. Wrapped in a sacred rope, the rock exuded an aura of ancient power and divine presence. I could almost feel the weight of history, the countless prayers and offerings made over centuries. The panoramic views from the shrine were breathtaking, stretching out over Shingu City and the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean. It was a moment of profound connection, a sense of being both grounded in the present and linked to the infinite past.

After descending from Kamikura Shrine, our stomachs were beginning to rumble. We decided to have lunch at Tororoya, a local restaurant known for its traditional Japanese cuisine. I opted for the tororo gohan, a dish of grated yam over rice, a regional specialty. The yam was incredibly smooth and flavorful, a comforting and nourishing meal after our exertions. Jan, ever adventurous, tried the local seafood curry, declaring it a unique and satisfying culinary experience.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

As evening approached, we found ourselves drawn to Kumagoro, an izakaya in Shingu. This traditional Japanese pub offered a cozy atmosphere and an array of delectable dishes. We sampled several small plates, including grilled fish, local vegetables, and a variety of sake. The izakaya was filled with locals, creating a lively and authentic atmosphere. I enjoyed chatting with some of the patrons, learning about their lives and traditions. It was a reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places, but about connecting with people and sharing experiences.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

To round off the day, we ventured to Wine Kumano, a charming bar specializing in natural wines and craft beers. The bar had a relaxed and welcoming vibe, and the staff were knowledgeable and passionate about their offerings. I sampled a local craft beer, while Jan savored a glass of natural wine. We chatted with the owner, who shared stories of the region and its unique terroir. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploration, a chance to reflect on our experiences and savor the moment.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.

As I sit here now, writing in my travel journal, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of today. Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it is a journey into the heart of Japan's spiritual and cultural heritage. The ancient shrines, the stunning natural landscapes, and the warm hospitality of the local people have all left an indelible mark on my soul. I am eager to see what tomorrow brings, as we prepare to venture into the Doro Kyo Gorge and experience the Kumano Boat River Cruise. But for now, I will rest and cherish the memories of this sacred day.

I also learned that August is a vibrant time in the Nara Prefecture, near Kumano Kodo, with the Obon festival taking place from August 13th to 15th. The Obon festival is a celebration of ancestors, with many beautiful ceremonies and traditions. Also, the Nachikatsuura-cho Fireworks Festival will be on August 11th. I am hoping we will have an opportunity to experience some of these festivals before we leave Japan.