Pilgrimage Through the Ancient Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of Ancient Pilgrims

Today, Jan and I, alongside our friends, embarked on a journey to one of the most iconic and spiritually significant sites along the Kumano Kodo: Nachi Waterfall and Kumano-Nachi Taisha. The air was thick with anticipation as we set out, eager to witness the natural beauty and historical depth that this sacred place holds. It was a day of awe-inspiring sights, quiet contemplation, and a deeper connection to the ancient traditions of Japan.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. The cozy atmosphere and the promise of local flavors made it the perfect starting point. I opted for a traditional teishoku meal, savoring each bite as I prepared myself for the day’s adventures. Jan enjoyed a steaming bowl of noodles, remarking on the restorative power of a good Japanese breakfast. It’s these simple moments, shared over delicious food, that truly enrich our travels.

Fueled and ready, we made our way towards Nachi Waterfall, eager to witness what is known as one of Japan's tallest waterfalls. The bus ride itself was a treat, winding through lush landscapes that hinted at the natural wonders to come. As we approached, the distant roar of the falls grew louder, heightening our excitement. The closer we got, the more palpable the spiritual energy of the area became. It felt as though we were stepping back in time, following in the footsteps of countless pilgrims who have sought solace and enlightenment here for centuries.

The sight of Nachi Waterfall was nothing short of breathtaking. Plunging 133 meters with impressive force, the water cascaded into a deep pool below, creating a scene of raw, untamed beauty. The falls are considered sacred, a deity in themselves, and it's easy to understand why. The sheer power and majesty of the water are humbling, inspiring a sense of reverence and awe. We spent a long time simply watching the falls, lost in the moment, letting the sound of the water wash over us.


Discover the stunning Nachi Waterfall in Wakayama, Japan—one of the tallest and most sacred waterfalls in the country, surrounded by lush nature and rich culture.

The essence of Kumano Kodo lies not just in the destinations, but in the journey itself – a path of self-discovery and spiritual awakening.

Next, we ascended towards Kumano-Nachi Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano. The climb was invigorating, a physical reminder of the pilgrims' dedication. As we reached the shrine, we were greeted by a sense of profound peace. The vermilion buildings stood in striking contrast to the surrounding greenery, creating a visual harmony that was both calming and uplifting.


Explore the spiritual heart of Wakayama at Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a stunning Shinto shrine surrounded by natural beauty and rich cultural history.

Kumano-Nachi Taisha has a rich history, dating back some 1,700 years. It was founded as a new location for the worship that had begun at Nachi Waterfall, and upholds the same tradition of reverence for nature. According to legend, the location was chosen because a great three-legged crow called the Yatagarasu alighted here after guiding the legendary first emperor Jimmu to present-day Nara.

Exploring the shrine complex, we admired the intricate details of the architecture and the serene atmosphere of the inner sanctum. We learned about the shrine's close ties to the neighboring Seiganto-ji Temple, a testament to the historical fusion of Shinto and Buddhist beliefs in Japan. The two sites were once part of the same religious complex, exemplifying the syncretism that was once prevalent in Japan. Though they were separated following the Meiji Restoration of 1868, the two sites remain closely linked, each enhancing the other's spiritual significance.

One of the highlights was spotting the Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow, which is a symbol of the Kumano region. Said to be a divine messenger, the Yatagarasu is a recurring motif throughout the Kumano Kodo, reminding us of the interconnectedness of nature, spirituality, and history. We even purchased Yatagarasu ema (prayer boards) to write our wishes on, a small but meaningful gesture of connection to this sacred place.

Before leaving Kumano-Nachi Taisha, we took a moment to appreciate the panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. From this vantage point, the world seemed vast and serene, a reminder of the beauty and power of the natural world. It was a moment of quiet reflection, a chance to internalize the lessons of the Kumano Kodo and to carry them with us on our journey.

For lunch, we stopped at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, a local restaurant that offered a variety of regional dishes. I tried a traditional Wakayama-style ramen, while Jan opted for a hearty bowl of katsudon. The food was simple but satisfying, providing us with the energy we needed for the afternoon’s adventures. It’s always a pleasure to support local businesses and to experience the authentic flavors of a region.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

In the afternoon, we visited the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, a charming rest stop that showcased local crafts and produce. I picked up a few souvenirs, including a beautiful hand-painted fan and some locally made sweets. Jan, ever the history buff, spent time browsing through the books and maps on display, learning more about the history and culture of the Kumano region. It’s these small discoveries that make travel so enriching.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Akihei for dinner. This restaurant, founded in 1870, is known for its elegant ambiance and refined cuisine. We opted for a multi-course tasting menu, each dish a work of art. The presentation was impeccable, and the flavors were complex and nuanced. It was a truly unforgettable dining experience. The owner's wife was also fluent in English, which made the experience even more pleasant.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

Reflecting on the day, I am struck by the profound sense of peace and connection that I feel. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a spiritual journey, a chance to connect with nature, history, and oneself. The majestic Nachi Waterfall and the serene Kumano-Nachi Taisha are powerful symbols of this journey, reminding us of the importance of reverence, reflection, and resilience.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kamikura Shrine. I am eager to continue our exploration of the Kumano region, to delve deeper into its history and culture, and to experience the transformative power of this ancient pilgrimage route. I also look forward to visiting Wine Kumano, to sample some local wines.

As we prepare for another day on the Kumano Kodo, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and anticipation. This journey is a gift, a chance to reconnect with what truly matters and to create memories that will last a lifetime. And I am so glad to be sharing it with Jan and our friends.