Pilgrimage Through the Ancient Trails of Kumano Kodo

Reaching New Heights on the Kumano Kodo

Today was a day of both physical exertion and spiritual reflection as we continued our journey along the Kumano Kodo. The ancient trails offered stunning views, and the local cuisine provided a delightful taste of the region's culture. I felt a deep connection to the pilgrims who walked these paths centuries ago.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Watarase Onsen Cafe. The traditional Japanese breakfast set us up perfectly for the day’s adventure. I enjoyed the simple, yet nourishing meal, while Jan enjoyed a strong coffee to kickstart his morning. We knew we had a challenging hike ahead, and a good breakfast was essential. I am always amazed how food can tell a story, and breakfast was no exception, as it was a prelude to the day ahead.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

With our stomachs full and spirits high, we set off to tackle the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing. The trail was challenging, but incredibly rewarding. The ascent was steep in places, and the August heat added an extra layer of difficulty. However, the views from the top were simply breathtaking. Lush green mountains stretched as far as the eye could see, and the sense of accomplishment upon reaching the summit was immense. I made sure to pack my reusable water bottle, feeling grateful for the chance to stay hydrated throughout the hike. I was thankful I had remembered to pack it, unlike my sunscreen, which I realised I had forgotten back at Jokiin in Koya!


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hike; it's a journey through time, nature, and the depths of one's own spirit.

As we descended, we joined the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route. This section of the trail was particularly significant, known as the Imperial Route used by emperors and nobles from the 10th century onwards. Walking in their footsteps, I felt a profound connection to the history and spirituality of this place. Jan and I took our time, soaking in the serene atmosphere and reflecting on the journey so far. I thought of my work back in Warsaw, curating resources on Polish-Irish cultural exchange, and how this pilgrimage was adding another layer to my understanding of cultural heritage.


Explore the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route, a UNESCO World Heritage site, for a blend of breathtaking nature and rich cultural heritage in Wakayama, Japan.

Lunch was a delightful experience at the Kumano Winery Guest House / Dal Chef’s Table. This charming spot offered a unique blend of Italian cuisine made with local ingredients. We savored the flavors of Verona-style cooking, a welcome change from the traditional Japanese meals we had been enjoying. The owner, Giovanni Dal Bosco, came to Japan in 2013 and created his own balsamic vinegar with homegrown ingredients and branded his own wine. The guest house itself was nestled amidst vineyards, with chickens and goats roaming freely. It felt like a true escape from the ordinary, and the food was absolutely divine. Aoife would have loved this place, with its unique blend of cultures and culinary delights.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.

In the evening, we arrived at Yunomine Onsen, one of Japan’s oldest hot spring towns. Before dinner, we explored the town and learned about its history as a place of purification for pilgrims. The natural hot springs have been revered for centuries, and it was easy to see why. I dipped my feet in the Tsuboyu bath, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and felt the soothing waters ease my tired muscles.

Dinner was at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, a casual restaurant that serves traditional Japanese dishes. I enjoyed a teishoku set, a meal featuring a variety of local delicacies. The dining hall also functions as a newsstand, providing access to local news and travel information. It was a perfect spot to unwind after a long day of hiking and exploration.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

To cap off the evening, we ventured to Why Kumano, a local bar in Kii-Katsuura. This cozy spot offered a selection of local craft beers and sake. We chatted with fellow travelers, sharing stories and experiences from our respective journeys. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and it was a great way to connect with others who shared a passion for exploration. I even tried a local craft beer, which had a unique and refreshing taste. Jan enjoyed a glass of sake, reminiscing about his days as a history teacher in Warsaw.


Experience the perfect blend of comfort, culture, and culinary delights at Why Kumano, your gateway to the enchanting Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

As I reflect on today’s experiences, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to walk this ancient path. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hike; it’s a journey through time, nature, and the depths of one’s own spirit. Each step brings a new perspective, a deeper understanding of oneself and the world around us. I am eager to see what tomorrow brings as we continue our pilgrimage. Tomorrow we plan to visit Fudarakusan-ji Temple and Nyonin-do Hall, and perhaps do some shopping at Toretore Market. I am looking forward to exploring these new sites and continuing our cultural immersion.

Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note to buy some sunscreen tomorrow. I wasn’t going to make that mistake again! It’s the little things that can make a big difference on a long journey, and protecting my skin from the sun is definitely one of them. Good night from Kumano Kodo!