Family Adventure in Orvieto, Italy

Day 8: A Journey Through Myth and Renaissance Splendor

Today was a day of contrasts, blending the whimsical with the majestic. From the quirky sculptures of Bomarzo to the architectural grandeur of Villa Farnese, it was a journey that stimulated both the imagination and the intellect. The Italian countryside offered its usual stunning views, making the drive between destinations a pleasure in itself.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Trattoria Pizzeria San Michele. I opted for a simple yet satisfying cappuccino and a pastry, while Eleanor chose a more substantial breakfast of eggs and bacon. Kenji, of course, was happy with his usual chocolate croissant. The pizzeria was conveniently located near the train station, making it a great spot for a quick and tasty meal before our adventures began. Reviews online suggested their pizzas were a must-try, but perhaps that will be for another time. After breakfast, we set off towards Bomarzo, eager to explore its historic center.

Centro storico di Bomarzo: A Step Back in Time

The Centro storico di Bomarzo is a small hilltop town that exudes an otherworldly charm. As we walked through its narrow, cobbled streets, I felt as though we had stepped back in time. The buildings seemed to cuddle up together, their stone facades whispering stories of centuries past. Bomarzo, unlike many towns in the area, doesn't have Roman roots, adding to its unique appeal. It was once the seat of the Orsini family, and their crest is emblazoned on buildings throughout the town.

We visited the Palazzo Orsini, a 16th-century palace that now houses the town hall. Although we couldn't explore all of its rooms, we admired its Renaissance facade and the clock tower that added to the town's picturesque skyline. Near the palace, we saw the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta, an early Christian church restored in 1546. Inside, it houses a 3rd-century sarcophagus with the remains of Saint Anselmo, the patron saint of Bomarzo. The bell tower, built on Etruscan ruins, was a fascinating blend of history. Bomarzo is known for the Parco dei Mostri, or Monster Park, which we were about to visit. Before heading there, we paused to take in the panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, a patchwork of green fields and distant hills.

Parco dei Mostri: A Whimsical World of Grotesque Sculptures

The Parco dei Mostri, also known as the Sacro Bosco, is a garden unlike any other. Commissioned in the 16th century by Prince Vicino Orsini as a memorial to his late wife, Giulia Farnese, it's a place where mythology and oddity come to life. As we entered the park, we were immediately greeted by larger-than-life sculptures of fantastic animals and mythological figures. Kenji's eyes widened in amazement as he gazed upon the Orcus Mouth, a massive stone head with a gaping mouth that visitors can enter. He was a little hesitant at first, but curiosity eventually won over, and he ventured inside with Eleanor. I followed, and we all chuckled at the strange acoustics within.

We wandered through the park, discovering a leaning house, a temple, and various fountains. Each sculpture seemed to have its own story to tell, and I found myself captivated by the park's surreal atmosphere. The park differs from Italian gardens and constitutes a unicum, giving life to a hermeneutic labyrinth of silences, allusions and illusions. The sculptures are free from perspective or proportional relationships. The classic composure gives way to the Mannerist taste for the bizarre and, with its gigantic elements, determines a disturbing relationship with nature.

The Sacro Bosco is more than just a garden; it's a journey into the imagination, where the boundaries between reality and fantasy blur.

Kenji was particularly fascinated by the giant turtle and the dragon, climbing on them and pretending to be a brave knight. Eleanor enjoyed the opportunity to take some creative photos, capturing the park's unique blend of art and nature. As we explored, I couldn't help but reflect on the Orsini family's history and the personal tragedy that led to the creation of this whimsical world. It was a poignant reminder of how art can be born from grief and loss.

After spending a couple of hours in the Parco dei Mostri, we were ready for lunch. We drove back towards Orvieto, stopping at Il Dialogo Orvieto for a quick and satisfying meal. I ordered the spaghetti carbonara, while Eleanor chose the cacio e pepe. Kenji, predictably, wanted pizza Margherita, which he devoured with gusto. The service was fast, and the prices were affordable, making it an ideal spot for a family lunch. Reviews online highlighted their tasty pasta and pizza, and we certainly weren't disappointed.

Villa Farnese: A Renaissance Masterpiece

After lunch, we drove to Caprarola to visit Villa Farnese, a magnificent Renaissance and Mannerist construction that dominates its surroundings. The villa is situated directly above the town of Caprarola, opening to the Monte Cimini, a range of densely wooded volcanic hills. As we approached the villa, I was immediately struck by its imposing pentagonal plan. The reddish-gold stone and the sheer size of the building were awe-inspiring. Villa Farnese should not be confused with Palazzo Farnese and Villa Farnesina, both in Rome. The Palazzo had already been started on a pentagonal plan by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, an expert military engineer. Work on it was interrupted around the mid-16th century; however, the walls of the fortress had already been erected at that time.

The Villa Farnese, also known as Villa Caprarola, is a mansion in the town of Caprarola in the province of Viterbo. Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, a grandson of Pope Paul III, planned to turn this partly constructed fortified edifice into a villa or country house. In 1556, he commissioned Giacomo Barozzi da Vignola as his architect, building work commenced in 1559 and Vignola continued to work on the villa at Caprarola until his death in 1573. The Villa Farnese was constructed on the foundations of a fortress begun in 1521 for Pope Paul III by Antonio da Sangallo and Baldassare Peruzzi.

We explored the villa's interior, admiring the series of frescoes that constitute one of the most important decorative cycles of the later 16th century. The rooms were filled with paintings depicting various events from Italian history, the Bible, and the history of the Farnese family. The most important room in the mansion is full of paintings depicting various events from Italian history, the Bible, and the history of the Farnese family. The design drew extensively on architecture at the Vatican in Rome. The two walled lower gardens of the Villa Farnese were laid out to Vignola's designs, in square parterres, with sculpture and fountains symbolizing the seasons and the regenerative cycles of nature. In the west garden are statues of Autumn and Winter and the Grotto of the Rain.

After touring the villa, we strolled through its gardens, which were just as impressive as the building itself. The gardens feature fountains and sculptures representing figures from Roman mythology. Apparently, there is a secret garden inside the mansion connected to the other gardens via a secret bridge. It is possible that the owners used this garden as a summer house.

As we walked through the gardens, I couldn't help but marvel at the vision and ambition of the Farnese family. They were always looking to climb the social ladder. In order to impress the king and the other nobility, they tried to build diplomatic relations and painted themselves heroically taking place in important battles and conflicts of Italy. The construction took 75 years to finish, and it became one of the finest and most enduring pieces of Renaissance architecture. The Villa Farnese has been towering over Caprarola and its locals for more than 500 hundred years now.

Before leaving Caprarola, we paused to take one last look at Villa Farnese, silhouetted against the setting sun. It was a fitting end to a day of exploration, a reminder of the beauty and grandeur that Italy has to offer.

Evening in Orvieto: Wine and Relaxation

Back in Orvieto, we decided to unwind with a drink at Enoteca al Duomo, a wine bar near the Duomo. I sampled a local red wine, while Eleanor opted for a glass of prosecco. Kenji enjoyed a refreshing juice. The atmosphere was relaxed and inviting, and we enjoyed chatting with the friendly staff. Reviews online praised their selection of wines and their tasty snacks. The spectacular decor and enjoyable atmosphere let clients feel relaxed.

For dinner, we chose Osteria del Grillo, a restaurant known for its authentic Italian cuisine. I ordered the homemade pasta, while Eleanor chose a meat dish. Kenji, of course, wanted pasta again. The food was delicious, and the service was excellent. The restaurant's rustic decor added to its charm, and we enjoyed a leisurely meal, savoring the flavors of Umbria. The atmosphere of hospitality of Osteria del Grillo highly depends on the staff, that is friendly. Service at this place is something one can name enjoyable. The menu is thoughtfully crafted, featuring a variety of dishes made from locally sourced ingredients that highlight the best of Italian gastronomy. The knowledgeable staff is always ready to recommend the ideal wine to enhance your dining experience.

As we walked back to Palazzo Piccolomini, I reflected on the day's adventures. From the whimsical sculptures of Bomarzo to the architectural grandeur of Villa Farnese, it had been a day of contrasts and discoveries. I am excited to see what tomorrow brings, with our planned visit to Sacro Bosco and Lake Bolsena. I've heard that Sacro Bosco is another unique and fascinating garden, and I'm eager to explore its hidden corners. And Lake Bolsena promises to be a refreshing escape from the summer heat. Kenji is already excited about the prospect of swimming in the lake, and Eleanor is looking forward to capturing its beauty with her camera. I'm also planning to do some shopping at TOO Italy tomorrow. It's days like these that make travel so rewarding, offering a blend of cultural immersion and personal enrichment.

Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note to buy Kenji's favorite toy and sunglasses tomorrow; forgetting them was a mistake. I also need to find an adapter for Italian outlets so I can charge my devices more easily.

Tomorrow, we’re off to Sacro Bosco and Lake Bolsena, hoping for more unforgettable experiences.