Family Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Through Ancient Paths: Koyazaka and Shiomi-togego'e

Today, the sixth day of our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, was a testament to the enduring spirit of this ancient trail. We embarked on a journey through history and nature, traversing paths that have been walked by countless pilgrims seeking solace and enlightenment. The day was filled with moments of quiet reflection, challenging climbs, and the simple joy of being surrounded by the lush beauty of the Kii Peninsula.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Yorozuya Eatery in Koya. This cozy spot offered a comforting start to what promised to be a physically demanding day. I savored the traditional Japanese breakfast set, a delightful mix of grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. Eleanor opted for the same, while Kenji, ever the adventurous eater, surprised us by enjoying a bowl of rice with natto (fermented soybeans). Fuelled up, we set off to tackle the Koyazaka Slope.


Discover the enchanting Koyazaka Slope in Wakayama, a captivating hiking area rich in history and breathtaking views, perfect for all nature lovers.

The Koyazaka Slope is a section of the Kumano Kodo in Shingu that leads along the coast to Nachi station. As we started our ascent, I couldn't help but think of the countless pilgrims who had walked this very path centuries before us. The stones beneath our feet felt worn smooth by time and the unwavering faith of those who sought spiritual connection. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, a fragrance that seemed to carry the whispers of the past.

Kenji, with his boundless energy, was particularly thrilled by the little Jizo statues that lined the trail. He made it a game to count them, his small voice echoing through the tranquil forest. Eleanor, ever the thoughtful one, paused at each statue, offering a silent prayer for the well-being of our family. I, meanwhile, found myself contemplating the significance of these small acts of devotion, the quiet moments of faith that have sustained people through generations. The Koyazaka Slope, while not overly strenuous, offered a gentle introduction to the day's challenges. The path wound its way through a dense forest, sunlight dappling through the leaves, creating an ethereal glow. We passed ancient stone markers, their inscriptions worn and faded, hinting at stories long forgotten. The air was still and quiet, broken only by the occasional chirping of birds and the rustling of leaves.

Walking the Kumano Kodo is not just a physical journey, but a journey of the soul, a chance to connect with the past and find peace in the present.

After completing the Koyazaka Slope, we made our way towards the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing.


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

This part of the journey promised to be more demanding, and I must admit, I felt a twinge of apprehension. However, the thought of the breathtaking views that awaited us at the summit spurred me on.

The Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing is known for its challenging terrain and stunning natural beauty. The trail snaked its way up the mountainside, the path becoming steeper and more rugged with each step. We passed through dense forests of cedar and cypress, the trees towering above us like ancient sentinels. The air grew cooler as we ascended, and the scent of pine filled our nostrils.

There were moments when I felt my resolve waver, my legs burning with exertion. But then I would look at Eleanor and Kenji, their faces flushed with effort but their eyes shining with determination, and I would find renewed strength. We encouraged each other, sharing stories and jokes to lighten the mood. Kenji, despite his small size, proved to be an incredibly resilient hiker. He scrambled over rocks and roots with the agility of a mountain goat, his laughter echoing through the trees. Eleanor, ever the practical one, kept us supplied with water and snacks, ensuring that we stayed hydrated and energized.

As we climbed higher, the trees began to thin, and we were rewarded with glimpses of the surrounding landscape. The views were simply breathtaking. Rolling hills stretched out before us, carpeted in a vibrant tapestry of green. In the distance, we could see the shimmering waters of the Pacific Ocean, a vast expanse of blue that seemed to stretch to the horizon.

Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we reached the summit of the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing. The sense of accomplishment was overwhelming. We stood there, catching our breath, taking in the panoramic views that unfolded before us. It was a moment of pure, unadulterated joy, a feeling of being completely connected to the natural world.

For lunch, we stopped at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

This charming spot is located in a renovated 130-year-old traditional Japanese folk house. We decided to try making Mehari-zushi for ourselves. Mehari-zushi is a local delicacy from Kumano City. It is a kind of sushi that is famous in the southern part of Mie Prefecture around Kumano City. Instead of dried seaweed, you wrap it in pickled mustard green leaves. It was originally eaten for lunch by locals who worked up in the mountains or in the rice fields. The staff were incredibly welcoming, guiding us through the process of preparing this local delicacy. Kenji was particularly enthusiastic, eagerly wrapping the rice balls in the pickled mustard green leaves. The taste was unique and satisfying, a perfect blend of sweet and savory. We also enjoyed a bowl of udon noodles with chicken. After lunch, we spent some time browsing the shop, which was filled with local crafts and souvenirs. I picked up a small wooden carving of a Jizo statue as a reminder of our pilgrimage.

In the late afternoon, we stopped by Iseya, a local shop known for its pickled eggplants.


Experience traditional Japanese hospitality at Iseya, a budget-friendly inn in Tanabe, Wakayama, perfect for relaxing getaways and cultural exploration.

The shop has been around since 1948. The owner, a kind elderly woman, greeted us warmly and offered us samples of her wares. The pickled eggplants were delicious, a perfect blend of sweet, sour, and salty flavors. I purchased a jar to take back to Bristol, a small taste of Kumano to share with friends and family.

For dinner, we went to Kakinoate.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

This restaurant is located near the entrance of the Hayatama Taisha shrine. We were looking forward to trying their persimmon leaf-wrapped sushi with salmon and mackerel, along with soba noodles. We were lucky to get a table, as the restaurant is quite popular and tends to sell out quickly. The vinegared rice had a light taste, and we enjoyed a homemade bisque cheesecake that paired well with black coffee.

As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it is a journey of the soul. It is a chance to connect with the past, to challenge oneself physically and mentally, and to find peace in the present.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall and Tsubo-yu. I am excited to see what new adventures await us on this incredible pilgrimage. And perhaps in the evening, if Kenji is not too tired, we can explore the KUMANOYASAI CAFE.

Oyasumi nasai (Good night) from Kumano Kodo.