Family Adventures in Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Whispers of the Wild

Today was a symphony of nature, a day where the serene beauty of Lago di Cornino met the untamed spirit of the Tagliamento River. It was a reminder of why we travel – to witness the raw, unfiltered beauty of our planet and to connect with it on a deeper level. This region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia continues to surprise and enchant us with its hidden gems.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Trattoria Alla Vedova in Forgaria nel Friuli. This charming spot, run by the Zamarian family since 1895, offered a cozy atmosphere that immediately made us feel at home. It's amazing to think that Ida, the current owner and Gianni Zamarian's widow, along with her daughters Sandra and Cristina, keep this place running, offering a taste of local tradition. The simple, hearty fare was the perfect fuel for our day of exploration. Elena, of course, was particularly thrilled with her *pane e marmellata* (bread and jam), a classic that never fails to bring a smile to her face. Maximilian and I savored the local pastries, accompanied by strong Italian coffee, while planning our route for the day.

Fueled and ready, we set off towards the Riserva Naturale Regionale del Lago di Cornino. The drive itself was a treat, with rolling hills and picturesque villages dotting the landscape. As we approached the reserve, the air grew noticeably fresher, carrying the scent of pine and wildflowers. The reserve covers about 500 hectares between the municipalities of Forgaria nel Friuli and Trasaghis, and I was eager to explore this protected area.


Explore the breathtaking Riserva Naturale Regionale del Lago di Cornino, a serene nature preserve with stunning landscapes and diverse wildlife in Italy's Udine Province.
The Riserva Naturale Regionale del Lago di Cornino is a haven for birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts alike. The lake itself is stunning, its emerald waters reflecting the surrounding mountains. But what truly sets this reserve apart is its dedication to the conservation of the griffon vulture. For nearly twenty years, an international project has been underway here, working to protect and reintroduce these magnificent birds to the area. I remember reading about Konrad Lorenz and his studies on animal behavior; it’s inspiring to see that same dedication to understanding and protecting wildlife in action here.

We spent a good portion of the morning exploring the reserve's trails. Elena was fascinated by the various observation points, where we could spot different bird species. The reserve is home to numerous animals, and the morning hours offer the best chance to see the griffons in flight. Although we didn't spot any vultures soaring overhead, we did see several other birds and learned about the local flora and fauna. The trails were well-maintained and easy to navigate, making it perfect for a family hike.

The beauty of nature lies not just in what you see, but in what it makes you feel.

After our morning hike, we drove to San Daniele del Friuli for lunch at Vitello d'Oro. This restaurant, located in the historic center of Udine, has been serving customers since 1849. The Sabinot family has been welcoming guests here since 1987, and they maintain the maritime tradition of the locale, with some revisited Friulian dishes. The ambiance was elegant yet inviting, and the menu featured a delightful array of seafood and regional specialties. Maximilian and I shared a plate of *prosciutto di San Daniele*, a local delicacy that simply melts in your mouth. Elena opted for a simple pasta dish, which she devoured with gusto. It was a perfect midday treat.

With our bellies full and spirits high, we embarked on our afternoon adventure: exploring the Tagliamento River. Known as the “King of the Alpine Rivers,” the Tagliamento is one of the last free-flowing rivers in Europe. Its wide, gravelly bed and braided channels create a unique and dynamic ecosystem. The river stretches from Carnia to the hilly area with San Daniele, and it’s a sight to behold.


Experience the breathtaking landscapes and tranquil waters of the Tagliamento River, a must-visit destination for nature lovers in Italy.
We found a spot along the riverbank where we could safely wade into the cool, clear water. Elena squealed with delight as she splashed around, collecting smooth, colorful stones. Maximilian and I took a moment to simply soak in the surroundings – the sound of the rushing water, the warmth of the sun on our skin, the vastness of the landscape. It was a moment of pure, unadulterated bliss. I was reminded of the bike ride between the Stella River and the Tagliamento River, and I made a mental note to look into that for a future adventure.

The Tagliamento is not just a beautiful river; it's also a vital habitat for a variety of plant and animal species. As we explored the riverbank, we noticed various wildflowers and insects, all thriving in this unique environment. It's a reminder of the importance of preserving these natural spaces for future generations. There is even an event called Tagliamento Libero, a non-competitive river descent that celebrates the Tagliamento River. It sounds like an incredible way to experience the river firsthand.

As the sun began to dip below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the landscape, we made our way to Ristorante Farroni in San Daniele del Friuli for dinner. This charming restaurant, with its terrace overlooking the Duomo and the Loggia of the Biblioteca Guarneriana, offered a stunning setting for our final meal of the day. The restaurant has a cozy atmosphere, and you can even sit at the counter and watch the chefs prepare the dishes. The menu changes monthly based on the seasonality of the products, and the chef proposes tasty and fresh extracts of seasonal fruits and vegetables as an aperitif.

We savored the traditional and vegetarian dishes, all prepared fresh in the modern open kitchen. Maximilian enjoyed the pizza with sourdough, while I tried the spaghetti alla carbonara. Elena was thrilled with her hamburger, which came with fries and sauces. It was the perfect way to end our day of exploration and adventure.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we stopped at Bar Al Got in Forgaria nel Friuli for a nightcap. It was a cozy place to relax and unwind after a day of exploring. We chatted about our favorite moments from the day and planned our itinerary for tomorrow. I enjoyed a glass of local wine, while Maximilian opted for a *birra artigianale* (craft beer). Elena, of course, was fast asleep, dreaming of griffon vultures and sparkling rivers.

Tomorrow, we’re off to Gemona Castle and Fagagna Borgo d'Italia. I’m particularly excited to explore the castle and learn more about the history of the region. I’m also looking forward to visiting Fagagna, known as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. And of course, we’ll be sure to try some more local cuisine at Ristorante Centopassi for breakfast, Ristorante San Michele for lunch, and Al Boschetto for dinner.

Today was a reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places; it's about connecting with nature, experiencing different cultures, and creating lasting memories with loved ones. Friuli-Venezia Giulia continues to captivate us with its beauty, its charm, and its warm hospitality. I’m so grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with my family and with all of you. I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!

And I definitely need to remember to buy an adapter for Italian power outlets; my phone is almost out of battery!