Family Adventure in Cape Breton Highlands

A Coastal Beginning

After a long journey from Haarlem, with a quick stopover in Amsterdam and a connecting flight in Halifax, we finally arrived at Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The anticipation had been building for months, ever since we booked this family adventure. I was eager to immerse myself in the stunning landscapes I had seen in countless photographs. I must say, those pictures did not lie – this place is simply magical, and I am excited to share my experiences with you.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Chowder House in Neil's Harbour. The drive there was scenic, offering glimpses of the rugged coastline that Cape Breton is famous for. As we approached the restaurant, the smell of the ocean filled the air, mingling with the savory aroma of seafood chowder. The Chowder House sits perched on a cliff, providing breathtaking views of the Atlantic. It was the perfect setting to start our culinary exploration of Cape Breton.

Pieter and Alessia were particularly excited about trying the local seafood. Alessia, despite her initial hesitation about anything that comes from the sea, was surprisingly adventurous. She even tried a tiny spoonful of my chowder and declared it not too fishy! I opted for the classic seafood chowder, while Pieter chose the lobster roll. We all agreed that the food was incredibly fresh and delicious, a true taste of the East Coast. Fueled up after a satisfying breakfast, we were ready to explore our first official stop: Lakies Head.


Experience the stunning vistas and natural beauty of Lakies Head, a scenic gem along Nova Scotia's iconic Cabot Trail in Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

Lakies Head is a short drive from Neil's Harbour, and the views along the way were simply stunning. The Cabot Trail winds its way through the park, offering panoramic vistas of the coastline at every turn. As we approached Lakies Head, we could see the dramatic cliffs and the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean stretching out before us. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of salt and pine.

The parking area at Lakies Head was easily accessible, and we were pleased to find a boardwalk that made it easy for Alessia to navigate. As we walked along the boardwalk, the wind picked up, playfully whipping through our hair. The views from the headland were breathtaking. To the south, we could see Ingonish Island and Cape Smokey in the distance. The rugged coastline stretched out before us, a testament to the power and beauty of nature.

Sometimes, the most beautiful discoveries are made when you simply allow yourself to wander and observe.

I was particularly captivated by the vibrant colors of the landscape. The deep blue of the ocean contrasted with the green of the forests and the rugged browns of the cliffs. Even in early October, the fall foliage was just beginning to emerge, painting the hillsides with hues of red and gold. I could only imagine how spectacular it would be in a few weeks when the colors were at their peak. I made a mental note to bring my good camera tomorrow, as my phone simply couldn’t capture the beauty of the landscape.

After spending some time at Lakies Head, soaking in the views and taking photos, we continued our drive along the Cabot Trail. Our next stop was Chéticamp, a charming Acadian village on the western side of the park. As we drove, we talked about the unique culture and history of the Acadians, descendants of French settlers who have called this region home for centuries.

Arriving in Chéticamp, we immediately felt the warmth and hospitality of the community. The village is known for its colorful buildings, traditional music, and delicious cuisine. We decided to have lunch at the Rusty Anchor Restaurant in Pleasant Bay, a place recommended by several locals. The restaurant is located halfway along the Cabot Trail, offering stunning views of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.


Experience fresh seafood and stunning views at Rusty Anchor Restaurant on Nova Scotia's scenic Cabot Trail.

The Rusty Anchor lived up to its reputation. Pieter and I both ordered the lobster roll, which was piled high with fresh lobster meat and drizzled with butter. Alessia, still a bit hesitant about seafood, opted for the fish and chips, which were crispy and golden brown. As we ate, we watched the fishing boats bobbing in the harbor, imagining the fresh seafood they would bring in later that day.

After lunch, we explored the village of Chéticamp, stopping at the Cape Breton Curiosity Shop. I had heard about this shop from other travel bloggers, and I was eager to see it for myself. The shop was filled with a quirky assortment of local crafts, souvenirs, and books. I loved browsing through the shelves, discovering unique treasures and learning about the local artisans who created them. Alessia was particularly fascinated by the selection of children’s books, and we ended up buying a beautifully illustrated story about a Mi’kmaq legend. I even found a book with Dutch idioms for Pieter, which I’m sure will provide us with some laughs later on.


Explore the charm of Cape Breton Curiosity Shop, where unique gifts and local artisan crafts await to create lasting memories from your visit to Nova Scotia.

As the day drew to a close, we decided to have dinner at L'abri café, restaurant et bar. This restaurant, recommended by our rental cabin owner, is known for its simple but elevated meals and its commitment to showcasing the best of Chéticamp. The restaurant has a cozy and inviting atmosphere, with large windows offering panoramic views of the ocean.


Experience authentic Cape Breton cuisine at L'abri Café in Chéticamp – where local flavors meet breathtaking coastal views.

The menu at L'abri featured a variety of local and seasonal dishes. I chose the seafood linguini, which was bursting with flavor. Pieter opted for the haddock, pan-fried to perfection. Alessia, predictably, chose the pasta with tomato sauce, which she devoured with gusto. As we ate, we reflected on our first day in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. We had seen stunning landscapes, tasted delicious food, and experienced the warmth and hospitality of the local people. It was everything we had hoped for and more.

Before heading back to our cabin, we took a stroll along the beach, watching the sunset over the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The sky was ablaze with color, painting the clouds with hues of orange, pink, and purple. The sound of the waves crashing against the shore was soothing and peaceful. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.

As I write this, curled up in our cozy cabin, I am already looking forward to tomorrow's adventures. We plan to hike the Skyline Trail, one of the most iconic trails in the park. I have heard that the views from the trail are simply breathtaking, and I can't wait to experience them for myself. I am also looking forward to trying the local craft beer at The Doryman Pub and Grill, a recommendation from a fellow traveler we met at L’abri. I have a feeling that Cape Breton Highlands National Park will leave a lasting impression on all of us. The natural beauty, the rich culture, and the friendly people have already captured our hearts. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. Good night from Cape Breton!

Oh, I almost forgot to mention! I realized as I was unpacking that I forgot my raincoat! Hopefully the weather will be on our side tomorrow, but I might have to make a stop at a local shop to pick one up, just in case.