Family Adventure in Historic Kanazawa

Echoes of Edo: A Day of Merchants and Geishas in Kanazawa

Today, I stepped back in time to explore two fascinating facets of Kanazawa's rich history: the world of its traditional merchants and the enchanting atmosphere of its geisha district. It was a day filled with cultural immersion, offering glimpses into the lives of those who shaped this beautiful city. Joining me on this adventure were Sri and Bagus, who were equally excited to delve into Kanazawa's past.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Curio Espresso and Vintage Design Café. This wasn't just any café; it was a little slice of Seattle right here in Kanazawa! The owner, a friendly Seattleite named Saul, has created a cozy, welcoming space that’s popular with both locals and tourists. I opted for a latte made with their special bean blend, while Sri enjoyed a vegan sandwich. Bagus, ever the adventurous one, went for the pulled pork sandwich with chili. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring. The atmosphere was buzzing, and it was clear why this place is a favorite.


Experience the charm of Curio Espresso and Vintage Design Café in Kanazawa – where delicious brunch meets vintage vibes.

With our caffeine fix sorted, we made our way to the Kanazawa Shinise Memorial Hall. This beautifully preserved building once housed the Nakaya Pharmacy, a traditional merchant house that dates back to the early Edo period. Walking through its rooms felt like stepping into a time capsule. We learned about the daily lives of the merchants, their business practices, and the cultural significance of their role in the community.


Explore Kanazawa's heritage at the Kanazawa Shinise Memorial Hall, a local history museum showcasing the city's rich cultural traditions and artisan crafts.

The staff were incredibly welcoming, providing information in English that helped us understand the history and significance of the building. Bagus was particularly fascinated by the old-fashioned tools of daily life displayed on the second floor, while Sri admired the lovely garden. It was a great opportunity to show Bagus a different way of life from a different era. The Mise-no-Ma, or storefront, was particularly evocative, recreating the atmosphere of a traditional drug store with its lattice screens and historical artifacts.

Sometimes, the best way to understand a place is to immerse yourself in its history, to walk in the footsteps of those who came before.

For lunch, we ventured to Dining Tsuzumi, located in Hotel Kanazawa. The restaurant offered a relaxed atmosphere with spacious seating. We decided to try their lunch buffet, which featured a variety of dishes using local Kaga ingredients. I opted for the Noto pork, Sri chose a pasta dish, and Bagus went for the Tsuzumi burger. The dessert buffet, complete with a chocolate fountain, was a hit with all of us. The food was delicious, and the service was attentive. It was the perfect place to recharge before our afternoon adventure.


Discover exquisite Western cuisine at Dining Tsuzumi in Kanazawa, where French and Italian flavors meet Japanese hospitality.

After lunch, we strolled towards the Kazuemachi Chaya District, one of Kanazawa's three preserved geisha districts. As we crossed the Asanogawa River, also known as Onna-gawa or the female river, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation. This district, with its narrow alleys and latticework facades, is known for preserving the traditional atmosphere of Kanazawa.


Discover the captivating Kazuemachi Chaya District in Kanazawa, a historical treasure showcasing traditional teahouses and rich cultural experiences.

Walking through Kazuemachi felt like stepping onto a movie set. The wooden buildings, the sound of the river flowing nearby, and the occasional glimpse of a geiko hurrying to an appointment all contributed to the enchanting atmosphere. We wandered through the quaint Akari-zaka (Bright Alley) and Kuragari-zaka (Dark Alley), imagining what life must have been like in this district during the Edo period.

Kazuemachi is quieter and less crowded than the more famous Higashi Chaya District, which allowed us to soak in the atmosphere at a more relaxed pace. We learned that the district got its name from Tomita Kazue, a key retainer to the Kaga lords. It was fascinating to think about the history and the stories hidden behind those wooden doors. The gentle breeze and the soft sunlight filtering through the trees created a magical ambiance.

Before dinner, we decided to experience Kanazawa's nightlife with a visit to Kohaku Bar. This cozy bar is known for its excellent cocktails and friendly service. I opted for a classic Old Fashioned, while Sri tried a local sake-based cocktail, and Bagus, always up for something new, asked the bartender to surprise him. The atmosphere was relaxed and intimate, and it was a great way to unwind after a day of exploring.


Discover the vibrant Kohaku Bar in Kanazawa, where expertly crafted cocktails meet warm ambiance for an unforgettable nightlife experience.

For dinner, we chose Hibi Sakanazuki Toboku, a Japanese cuisine restaurant known for its fresh seafood and seasonal vegetables. The owner, who trained in Kyoto and Tokyo, focuses on using local ingredients, ensuring that every dish is bursting with flavor. We opted for the chef's omakase (chef's choice) course, which featured a variety of dishes, from sashimi to grilled fish to simmered vegetables. Each dish was beautifully presented, and the flavors were exquisite.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Hibi Sakanazuki Toboku in Kanazawa – where tradition meets flavor in every bite.

The restaurant itself was small and intimate, with counter seating that allowed us to watch the chef at work. The service was attentive, and the chef took the time to explain each dish to us. It was a truly memorable dining experience, and a perfect end to a day of cultural immersion. It is important to note that they do not accept guests under junior high school age for dinner.

As we walked back to Kaname Inn Tatemachi, I reflected on the day's adventures. From the cozy Seattle-style café to the preserved merchant house and the enchanting geisha district, Kanazawa had offered us a glimpse into its soul. It was a day of contrasts – old and new, East and West – that perfectly captured the essence of this fascinating city. Tomorrow, we plan to visit the D.T. Suzuki Museum and explore more of Kanazawa with a guided tour. I’m also planning to do some shopping at Kanazawa Loft. I can't wait to see what other treasures this city holds.


Discover comfort and convenience at Kaname Inn Tatemachi, a centrally located hotel in Kanazawa perfect for travelers seeking adventure and relaxation.

The day ended with a pleasant surprise. As we were strolling through the city center, we stumbled upon a live performance! It turns out that indigo la End, a popular band, was playing at the Hondanomori Hall as part of their 15th-anniversary tour. Although we couldn't get tickets at such short notice, the atmosphere was electric, and we enjoyed soaking in the music from outside the venue. It was a reminder that Kanazawa is not just a city of history and tradition, but also a vibrant hub of contemporary culture.