Discovering Kanazawa: A Cultural Journey in Japan

Echoes of the Past in Kanazawa

Today was a day of diving deep into Kanazawa's history, and I couldn't wait to share all the amazing things Maximilian and I discovered. From wandering through a preserved geisha district to stepping inside the homes of samurai and exploring an elegant villa, every moment felt like a step back in time. It's amazing how well-preserved this city is, offering such a tangible connection to its rich cultural heritage.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Umi & Tsuchi. It reopened as a French restaurant last September, and it was such a treat! The ambiance was lovely, and the food was a delicious fusion of Japanese and French flavors. I opted for one of their lunch set menus, which featured creative dishes that were almost too pretty to eat. Maximilian thoroughly enjoyed his meal as well, and we both appreciated the restaurant's commitment to using local ingredients. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration. I made sure to try some Japanese wine, and it paired perfectly with the meal. It was a truly unique experience, blending the best of both culinary worlds.


Discover exquisite Kaiseki dining at Umi & Tsuchi, where Kyoto's culinary traditions meet modern elegance in Kanazawa.

First on our itinerary was the Kazuemachi Chaya District. This is one of Kanazawa's three preserved geisha districts, and it offered such a different atmosphere compared to the more famous Higashi Chaya District. As we strolled along the Asano River, the traditional wooden buildings with their latticed windows created a serene and elegant ambiance. I could almost hear the faint melodies of shamisen music drifting from the tea houses. I read that this area was named after Tomita Kazue's residence during the Edo period. The narrow alleys and stone-paved streets were so picturesque, and it felt like stepping into a scene from a historical drama. It's easy to see why this district is designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. Maximilian and I enjoyed simply wandering and soaking in the atmosphere, imagining what life must have been like here centuries ago. Although we didn't spot any geiko, the charm of the district was captivating enough. The gentle breeze and the soft sunlight filtering through the trees made it a perfect morning walk. I even managed to snap a few photos that I know will become treasured memories of our trip.


Discover the captivating Kazuemachi Chaya District in Kanazawa, a historical treasure showcasing traditional teahouses and rich cultural experiences.

To truly understand a culture, one must walk in the footsteps of those who came before.

Next, we ventured to Seison-kaku Villa, a stunning mansion built by a Maeda lord for his mother in 1863. It is located in the southeast corner of Kenrokuen Garden, and is considered one of the most elegant, remaining samurai villas in Japan. The villa was built by Maeda Nariyasu for his mother, Shinryu-in, as a retirement home, and it's filled with her personal effects, which are now open to the public. The architecture was breathtaking, with intricate wooden carvings, coffered ceilings, and beautiful tatami rooms. I was particularly impressed by the Horsetail corridor, a long, covered walkway that extends without any supporting beams. The villa had a direct entrance to Kenrokuen, but we decided to explore the villa first before heading back to the gardens. The vibrant colors and the serene atmosphere made it easy to imagine the Maeda family living here in luxury and peace. Maximilian was fascinated by the blend of Japanese and international design elements, including stained glass imported from the Netherlands. It was a testament to Lord Nariyasu's open-mindedness and appreciation for foreign culture. We spent a good hour wandering through the villa, admiring the craftsmanship and learning about the history of the Maeda family. It was a truly enriching experience that provided a deeper understanding of Kanazawa's cultural heritage.


Explore Seison-kaku, a historic gem in Kanazawa, where traditional architecture meets serene gardens, embodying Japan's rich cultural heritage.

After immersing ourselves in the opulence of Seison-kaku, we sought a change of pace at the Kanazawa City Ashigaru Museum. This museum comprises two faithfully preserved Edo-period homes of common foot soldiers. It offered a stark contrast to the lavish lifestyle of the samurai lords. These houses were inhabited until the 1990s and are very well maintained, including their distinctive stone roofs. The Ashigaru Museum's display of how low-ranking samurai lived complements the more stately samurai houses around it in the Nagamachi district. It was eye-opening to see how the Ashigaru lived, their homes reflecting a humble existence. It's easy to forget the lives of ordinary people when visiting historical sites, but this museum offered a valuable glimpse into the daily routines and struggles of the foot soldiers who supported the samurai class. Maximilian and I discussed how different life must have been for them, and how their contributions were often overlooked in historical accounts. The museum's exhibits of restored household items helped us imagine the daily lives of the families who lived there. It was a humbling experience that reminded us of the importance of appreciating the contributions of all members of society, regardless of their social status.


Explore the rich legacy of Japan's foot soldiers at the Kanazawa City Ashigaru Museum, where history comes alive through engaging exhibits and artifacts.

For lunch, we headed to Grill Otsuka, a famous Western-style restaurant known for its Hanton Rice. We had to wait in line, but it was definitely worth it. Hanton Rice is a local specialty, featuring ketchup rice topped with a half-boiled egg, fried white fish, and a generous amount of tartar sauce and ketchup. It's a hearty and satisfying dish that's considered a soul food in Kanazawa. It was so delicious! The combination of flavors and textures was unique and comforting. Maximilian opted for the hamburger steak, which was equally tasty. The restaurant had a cozy, old-school atmosphere, and the staff was friendly and welcoming. It felt like stepping back in time to a simpler era. I learned that Hanton rice was originally a *makanai* dish, a meal prepared for the restaurant staff, and it eventually became so popular that it was added to the menu. It's a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the local chefs. We left Grill Otsuka feeling full and content, ready for more adventures.


Discover Grill Otsuka in Kanazawa: Where Japanese tradition meets Western culinary excellence in every delicious bite.

Our afternoon was dedicated to shopping at Kanazawa Hyakubangai, a large shopping district located within Kanazawa Station. It's divided into three areas: Anto, Rinto, and Anto Nishi, each offering a different shopping experience. Anto is a souvenir and eating area with many restaurants where you can enjoy the unique tastes of Kanazawa, and souvenir shops that sell local Japanese sweets, confectionary, local sake, and crafts. Rinto is a popular fashion area, and Anto Nishi has a fresh food supermarket, pharmacy and restaurants. We explored all three areas, browsing through the various shops and stalls. I was particularly interested in the local crafts and confectionery, while Maximilian was on the lookout for unique souvenirs for his family. We ended up buying a few small gifts and some local sake to take back to Heidelberg. The shopping center was bustling with activity, and it was a great place to experience the local culture and energy. We even sampled some local sweets and snacks, which were delicious. It was a fun and relaxing way to end the afternoon.


Discover the ultimate shopping and dining experience at Kanazawa Hyakubangai, where tradition meets modernity in the heart of Kanazawa.

As evening approached, we made our way to Nyumba for dinner. This modern izakaya was recommended to us by a local, and it did not disappoint. The atmosphere was vibrant and lively, with a mix of locals and tourists enjoying the food and drinks. Nyumba is a modern izakaya that marries traditional Japanese flavors with a contemporary flair. The menu featured a variety of small plates, from fresh sashimi to grilled skewers, all expertly prepared and beautifully presented. I was impressed by the selection of craft beers, and Maximilian enjoyed the local sake. The staff was attentive and friendly, making sure we had everything we needed. We ordered a few different dishes to share, and each one was a culinary delight. The flavors were bold and complex, and the ingredients were fresh and high-quality. It was the perfect way to end our day of exploration. As we savored our meal, we reflected on all the amazing things we had seen and done. Kanazawa had truly exceeded our expectations, and we were already looking forward to what tomorrow would bring.


Experience modern izakaya dining at Nyumba in Kanazawa—where tradition meets contemporary flavors for an unforgettable culinary journey.

Tomorrow, we are planning to explore more of the natural beauty surrounding Kanazawa. We'll start with a visit to Natadera Temple, nestled in a scenic forest, followed by a hike up Mount Utatsu for panoramic views of the city. We'll also visit the Kanazawa Utatsuyama Kogei Kobo to learn about local crafts, and end the day with drinks at JIGGER BAR St.Louis. I can't wait to see what new adventures await us!

I'm so grateful for experiences like today that remind me why I love to travel. Sharing these moments with Maximilian makes it even more special. Kanazawa, you've stolen a piece of my heart!

I am looking forward to sharing more of my adventures with you all!