Family Cultural Escape to Monemvasia, Greece

Whispers of the Past in Monemvasia

Today was a day of wandering through time, as Lena, Kai and I explored the captivating medieval town of Monemvasia. The echoes of history resonated in every stone, every corner, and every breathtaking view. It's days like these that remind me why I love sharing these experiences with my family, creating memories that we'll cherish long after we've left this enchanting place.

Our day began, as most good days do, with a hearty breakfast. We headed to Aktaion, a family-run restaurant near the entrance to the castle. The hotel is located right at the entrance of the bridge that leads to the castle of Monemvasia. It offers stunning views of the rock of Monemvasia and its small port. Aktaion has been around for about 80 years. I opted for some traditional Greek yogurt with honey, while Lena and Kai enjoyed fresh pastries. The view of the Rock of Monemvasia from our table was simply stunning, a perfect start to our explorations. The hotel and restaurant is located right on the edge of the corridor to the old town of Monemvasia.


Experience authentic Greek cuisine at Aktaion with stunning sea views and fresh local ingredients.
Fueled up, we ventured into the heart of the castle town. Our first stop was the Lighthouse of Monemvasia, perched on the eastern tip of the peninsula. The walk there was an experience in itself, a gentle climb through narrow passageways, each turn revealing a new vista of the Aegean Sea. The lighthouse building complex was built in 1896, and the lighthouse was lit on January 13th, 1897. During World War II, the lighthouse remained closed due to damage it suffered. It reopened in 1945. The renovated and restored lighthouse of Monemvasia in 2011 was designated a protected monument. The building complex includes the old stone house of the lighthouse keeper, accompanied by the lighthouse tower, smaller auxiliary buildings and smaller structures. The height of the square stone tower reaches 7 metres, and its focal height is 17 metres. Access to the lighthouse is through a passage that connects the Laconian coast with the rock. The building complex is characterised by military austerity and simplicity. Its spaces follow basic geometric shapes and simple lines without other morphological elements. The lighthouse was established in 1896 and automated in 1955. The lighthouse operated with a dioptric oil lighting device, with a characteristic red light and a beam of 8 nautical miles.


Explore the historic Lighthouse of Monemvasia, a beacon offering stunning views and a glimpse into Greece's maritime heritage.
The lighthouse itself, with its square stone tower, stood proudly against the azure sky. Though small, the museum housed within one of the auxiliary buildings offered a glimpse into the history of Greek lighthouses. I couldn't help but feel a connection to the countless sailors who had relied on this beacon over the years. As someone who grew up on an island, I've always felt a special kinship with the sea and those who navigate it. It was automated in 1955. The lighthouse suffered severe damage during World War II and was extinguished, but it started operating again in 1945 after it was restored. The lighthouse was restored in 2015 with funds from the European Union and still has a keeper responsible for the operation and its maintenance.

The beauty of Monemvasia lies not just in its stones, but in the stories they whisper.

Next on our itinerary was the Elkomenos Christos Church, considered the most famous church of the castle town. As we approached, the church exuded a sense of peace and history. The Church of Elkomenos Christos is located in the Old Town of Monemvasia, in the quarter of Kato Poli. It is dedicated to Christ and celebrates on Holy Thursday, in Easter. A carved inscription indicates that it was constructed in 1697, probably on the site of a former church founded in the 6th-7th century. Inside this small church, there are rare Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons, including the icon of Christ in chains before He was crucified and the Crown of Thorns on His head. The beautiful bell tower was constructed in the 18th century and the marble iconostasis was created in 1801 by the Tinian artist Yorgios Kaparias. The church is considered the oldest on the rock and was built in the 6th or the 7th century. Its interior is decorated with remarkable works of the 17th and 18th century, mainly portable icons. The marble screen was constructed in 1901, and replaced the older wooden-carved one. The most important relic of the church is the famous large icon of the Elkomenos, which dates from the 14th century.


Explore Elkomenos Christos, a magnificent Greek Orthodox church in Monemvasia, rich in history and breathtaking architecture amidst stunning coastal views.
Stepping inside, we were enveloped in the cool, dim light, the air thick with the scent of incense. The intricate frescoes and the ancient icons spoke of centuries of faith and devotion. Lena, with her background in art history, was particularly fascinated by the Byzantine art. She shared details about the techniques and symbolism, enriching our understanding of this sacred space. The original structure probably dates from the Early Christian period (6th-7th centuries). In the 11th and 12th centuries the chapel of Aghios Ioannis was incorporated into the south side of the church. In 1539 a church official named Georgios Kougydas built buttresses onto the south wall. In 1697 the dome and narthex were added. The icon of the Crucifixion was stolen and was for many years exhibited at Athens' Byzantine Museum. It was finally brought back to the Elkomenos Christos in 2011. It is considered to be one of the largest and most beautiful examples of what is known as the Palaeologian Renaissance and is of inestimable value.

Our final stop of the day was Chryssafitissa Square, the heart of Monemvasia. This picturesque square, adorned with stone buildings, serves as a gathering point for locals and tourists alike. As we entered the square, we were greeted by charming cafes and shops. The atmosphere was vibrant yet relaxed, making it an ideal spot to unwind. The square often hosts local events, performances, and art exhibitions. The backdrop of the towering rock of Monemvasia combined with the azure waters of the Aegean Sea creates a breathtaking panorama.


Discover the enchanting Chryssafitissa Square in Monemvasia, where stunning views, rich history, and vibrant local culture come together.
The square is a large open space of neoclassical proportions sitting in a medieval settlement. It was opened up in the 19th century. Underlining the poetic dimension of rainwater drainage as a vital need, a series of linear drain paths were traced, traversing and ending up in small openings. The drains unfold in a zig-zag fashion, follow the most efficient route to avoid stagnation and bring, with their geometry, a contemporary aspect. The main surface of the square is laid with stone pavers joined with rammed earth so that low vegetation can grow. The drainage paths are lined with limestone, brick and pebble mosaic for the curved part in the center, to give the impression of water flowing. Four marble slabs are placed in the four corners of the square, engraved with verses from local poet Yannis Ritsos. Steel sculptures in the form of Byzantine letters on steel rods rest in small groups around the marble slabs. There are no conventional benches, only randomly placed oversized cannonballs which can be used freely for sitting or playing.

We settled at Marianthi, a traditional taverna with tables spilling out onto the walkway. Chef/owner Magda is friendly and welcoming, and serves up a mouth-watering menu of home-cooked local favorites. I decided to try some local delicacies. The food was delicious, and the portions were generous, a true taste of Greek hospitality. Lena and Kai enjoyed some people-watching, observing the ebb and flow of life in the square. Marianthi has been a Monemvasia institution since 1970.


Savor traditional Greek cuisine at Marianthi in Monemvasia, where every dish tells a story of heritage and flavor.
As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the town, we made our way to Malvasia Café. This quiet and rustic stone terrace is located at the east end of the main road in Malvasia Hotel. The café has a beautiful terrace above the city, with amazing view of the city and sea. The menu is not extensive; just good coffee, wine, cocktails, and small bites. The café blends with the landscape, as if it had always been there. The majesty of the landscape and the absolute peace and quiet give the impression that time has stopped or that flows very slowly. We sipped on some local wine, savoring the moment and the stunning view. The café is open every day from early morning until midnight. It was the perfect end to a day filled with history, culture, and family bonding. We sat on the traditional wicker chairs in the shade of the trees and sipped something refreshing while gazing at the open sea.


Discover the perfect blend of history and flavor at Malvasia Café, where every sip of coffee tells a story in the heart of Monemvasia.
For dinner, we chose Restaurant Skorpios, drawn in by its reputation for traditional Greek cuisine and fresh seafood. The restaurant offers an inviting dining experience nestled in the heart of Monemvasia. The menu showcases a vibrant selection of traditional Greek cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh seafood and hearty dishes. The ambiance is enhanced by breathtaking views of the picturesque fisherman port and stunning mountain backdrop. The restaurant is located in a quiet location in the new town of Monemvasia, where you can enjoy your meal by the sea with spectacular views of the famous Rock. It is a family business that offers Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, with particular emphasis on quality ingredients, most of which are produced by the owners themselves. We were not disappointed. The Imam Moussaka and flavorful local pasta options were amazing. Families are particularly delighted to find kid-friendly options that cater to younger guests while ensuring everyone feels like cherished members of this culinary family.


Discover authentic Greek flavors at Restaurant Skorpios in Gefira – where tradition meets exceptional dining experiences.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore Monemvassia Island, visit Pēgés, and relax on Portello Beach. I'm looking forward to another day of discovery and adventure with my wonderful family. I'm also hoping to pick up a little something for Lena at Kornilia Jewellery Shop.

Before heading back to our guesthouse, we enjoyed a final stroll through the town, the stars twinkling above us. Monemvasia at night is a magical place, the ancient stones bathed in soft light, the air filled with a sense of timelessness. It's a feeling I'll carry with me long after we've left, a reminder of the beauty and wonder that this world has to offer.