Exploring the Majestic Bungle Bungle Range with Family
Day 12: Kimberley's Hidden Gems: Caves, Homesteads, and Outback Charm
Discover the Kimberley's wonders: Explore ancient caves, experience station life, and savor famous scones on an unforgettable adventure.
A Day of Discovery in the Kimberley
Today was a day of contrasts, a blend of ancient history and rustic charm that only the Kimberley could offer. Leaving the Bungle Bungle Range behind, we ventured into the heart of Gooniyandi country to explore Mimbi Caves, followed by a taste of outback hospitality at Ellenbrae Station. It was a day filled with stories, both old and new, and a deeper appreciation for this unique corner of Australia.
Discover the enchanting Mimbi Caves, a stunning natural wonder in Western Australia, perfect for adventure seekers and nature lovers.
Our day began early with breakfast at the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park & Tour Company. Fueled up, we set off towards Mimbi Caves, eager to explore the ancient wonders I'd heard so much about. I must admit, the drive itself was an experience, the landscape unfolding in a tapestry of red earth and rugged beauty. It reminded me of the landscapes back in Arezzo, Tuscany, yet with a unique Australian twist.
Delving into Dreamtime at Mimbi Caves
Arriving at Mimbi Caves, I was immediately struck by the sense of history and culture that permeated the air. The caves are located 90km east of Fitzroy Crossing, in the heart of Gooniyandi country. As we gathered for our tour, our Gooniyandi guide welcomed us with a traditional smoking ceremony, a deeply moving experience that connected us to the land and its ancient spirits. The Gooniyandi people have inhabited this part of the Kimberley for over 40,000 years, making them part of the world's oldest continuous culture.
As we ventured into the caves, the temperature dropped noticeably, a welcome respite from the Kimberley heat. Our guide shared Dreamtime stories of how the caves and freshwater pools were created, tales passed down through generations. The caves themselves are part of a 350-million-year-old Devonian Reef system, and the delicate limestone formations, vivid colors, and crystal-clear pools were truly breathtaking. Lasse was particularly fascinated by the marine fossils embedded in the cave walls, remnants of a time when this land was submerged beneath the ocean.
The land is not just a place; it's a living, breathing story etched in stone and whispered on the wind.
The Mimbi cave system reveals ancient large scale fossilised reefs that are amongst the best preserved in the world. I learned that the caves attract geologists from all over the world.
One of the most poignant moments was when our guide showed us ancient rock art and petroglyphs on the cave walls, further evidence of the Gooniyandi people's use of the caves over thousands of years. He explained the meanings behind the paintings, stories of ancestors, animals, and the spirits that inhabit the land. We also visited a birthing cave, a place used by Gooniyandi women in traditional times. Only women are permitted to visit this cave for cultural reasons.
Emerging from the caves, we were treated to traditional Billie Tea and damper, made with native seeds, around a campfire. Our guide shared more stories and played a few songs on his guitar, creating a truly immersive cultural experience. It was a privilege to learn about the Gooniyandi people's connection to this land and their efforts to preserve their culture for future generations.
Outback Hospitality at Ellenbrae Station
After a fulfilling morning at Mimbi Caves, we continued our journey towards Ellenbrae Station. The drive was long, but the anticipation of experiencing a true outback station kept us going. Located 230km from Kununurra along the Gibb River Road, Ellenbrae Station is a working cattle station that also offers accommodation and hospitality to travellers.

Experience the rugged beauty and tranquility of Ellenbrae Station, a premier camping destination on the Gibb River Road in Western Australia.
As we drove up the 5km driveway to the homestead, we were greeted by lush green lawns and shady trees, a welcome contrast to the rugged landscape we had been traversing. Ellenbrae is known for its warm hospitality and laid-back atmosphere. The station was built by Byrne Terry, who was passionate about the Kimberley. Terry created a stopover for tourists. The station has rustic buildings. We settled in for lunch at the homestead, where we enjoyed the most famous scones in the Kimberley. Astrid declared them the best she'd ever tasted, light and fluffy with fresh cream and jam. I savored every bite, thinking of how I might try to recreate them back in Silkeborg, perhaps with a Danish twist.
After lunch, we explored the station grounds, taking a dip in one of the nearby waterholes to cool off. The water was refreshing, and it was a great way to escape the afternoon heat. We also learned about the station's history and its role in the Kimberley's pastoral industry.
Ellenbrae Station is a million acres in size. It is still a working cattle station. It has rustic buildings. The scones are the main attraction.
Before leaving Ellenbrae, we stopped by the bar at the Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge, where we enjoyed a refreshing drink and reflected on the day's adventures. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with exploration and cultural immersion.
Looking Ahead
As we head into our final day in the Kimberley, I am filled with mixed emotions. Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Argyle Homestead Museum and Kelly's Knob, also known as Thegoowiyeng. It's hard to believe our adventure is coming to an end, but I know the memories we've made will last a lifetime. This trip has been more than just a vacation; it's been a journey of discovery, a chance to connect with the land and its people, and an opportunity to create lasting memories with my family. I'm already looking forward to sharing our experiences with my readers and inspiring them to embark on their own Kimberley adventures.
Perhaps, on our next outback adventure, I'll remember to pack the portable phone charger and binoculars that I forgot this time around. The vast landscapes of Australia demand to be seen up close!
For dinner, we enjoyed another meal at the Bungle Bungle Savannah Lodge | Eco Accommodation in Purnululu National Park, savoring the flavors of the outback one last time.
Discover eco-friendly luxury at Bungle Bungle Savannah Lodge in Purnululu National Park—where adventure meets comfort in stunning natural surroundings.
The stars are out tonight, and as I sit here writing, I can't help but feel grateful for this incredible experience. The Kimberley has captured my heart, and I know I'll be back someday to explore more of its hidden gems.
Discover the breathtaking Bungle Bungle Range with your family and explore its natural wonders and cultural heritage on an immersive Australian adventure.
Meet this Featured Explorer
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Occupation: Restorer of Antique Furniture
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Country: Denmark
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Age: 47
Ciao! I'm Andrea Colombo, a restorer of antique furniture with a passion for history, art, and exploring different cultures. Born in Italy and now living in Denmark, I've spent my life surrounded by craftsmanship and stories of the past. Join me as I share my travel experiences, weaving together personal anecdotes, historical facts, and practical tips for those who appreciate immersive and authentic journeys. Together with my family, I seek out unique destinations, connect with local communities, and uncover the hidden gems that make each place special. Benvenuti!
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