A Family Adventure in the Heart of Florence

Florentine Echoes: Art, Faith, and Culinary Delights

Today was a sensory feast, a day where Florence revealed its soul through art, history, and the unforgettable tastes of its cuisine. From the awe-inspiring presence of Michelangelo's David to the echoes of history within ancient walls, and the vibrant flavors savored in charming eateries, Florence truly captivated me today.

Our day began with a pilgrimage to the Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze. I had pre-booked our tickets, a lesson learned from previous travels, knowing how precious time is and how long the queues can get. Even in late February, the line was considerable, and I felt a surge of smugness as we bypassed the crowd and stepped inside. James, Eglė and I were eager to see Michelangelo's David. I was especially excited to see it in person, after having only seen it in books and online. I had also read that the Galleria is home to an impressive collection of Florentine paintings, mostly from the period 1300–1600, by artists including Andrea Orcagna, Taddeo Gaddi, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Filippino Lippi, and Sandro Botticelli, so I was looking forward to see them as well.

As we entered the hall, the sheer magnitude of *David* struck me. The sculpture is even more breathtaking in person. The way the light played on the marble, the detail in the muscles and veins, the intensity in his eyes – it was all mesmerizing. Eglė, who is usually glued to her phone, was equally captivated, circling the statue and snapping photos from every angle. James, ever the pragmatist, was impressed by the sheer skill and artistry involved. We spent a good hour just admiring *David*, trying to absorb every detail. I was definitely not alone feeling this way, as I could hear other visitors speaking in hushed tones, clearly moved by the experience.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

After the Accademia, we wandered towards Piazza di San Lorenzo, drawn by the promise of the bustling market. The square was a hive of activity, vendors hawking leather goods, scarves, and souvenirs. While I'm generally not one for tourist traps, I couldn't resist browsing the stalls, picking up a few small gifts for friends back home. The energy of the market was infectious, a vibrant snapshot of Florentine life. I read somewhere that the Piazza hosts an outdoor celebration with live music and free lasagna and watermelon for all visitors on August 10 for the feast day of San Lorenzo. Unfortunately we will not be here then, but I made a mental note to come back another year to experience it. We even stumbled upon a small local event, a lively street performance that drew a cheerful crowd. I love these unplanned moments of cultural immersion; they often become the most cherished memories of a trip. It was the kind of experience that reminds me why I love to travel - the unexpected encounters and the chance to connect with people from different walks of life.

For lunch, we ventured to Coquinarius, a place I had bookmarked after reading rave reviews online. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a rustic charm that immediately made us feel at home. We started with a selection of Tuscan cheeses and cured meats, accompanied by crusty bread and local olive oil. For our main courses, James opted for the *pappardelle al ragu*, while Eglė chose the *ribollita*, a hearty Tuscan bread soup. I decided to try the *bistecca alla fiorentina*, a Florentine steak, which the waiter recommended. The food was simply divine, bursting with fresh, local flavors. The service was impeccable, and the atmosphere was warm and convivial. It was the perfect place to refuel after a morning of sightseeing. I have to say, Coquinarius definitely lived up to its reputation. I will make sure to recommend it to anyone I know who is planning a trip to Florence. I also noticed that they have a great selection of natural wines, so I will make sure to try some next time.

In the afternoon, we made our way to the Baptistery of St. John, standing in front of the Duomo. The Baptistery is one of Florence's oldest buildings, and it is believed to have been built on the site of a Roman temple. The octagonal structure is adorned with three sets of bronze doors, each a masterpiece in its own right. The most famous are the Gates of Paradise, designed by Ghiberti, with panels depicting scenes from the Old Testament. We spent a long time admiring the doors, marveling at the intricate details and the sheer artistry of the work. The interior of the Baptistery was equally impressive, with its stunning mosaic ceiling depicting scenes from the Bible. I also learned that the Baptistery was consecrated in 1059 and was named after St. John the Baptist (San Giovanni Battista), the patron saint of Florence. I found it fascinating that the building began around the fourth century on the ruins of a Roman house. The Baptistery is truly a treasure trove of art and history.

As the day drew to a close, we strolled along the Arno River, enjoying the sunset over the Ponte Vecchio. The golden light cast a magical glow over the city, and the air was filled with the sounds of laughter and music. We decided to treat ourselves to gelato at a nearby gelateria, savoring the sweet treat as we watched the world go by. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.

Before dinner we stopped at Pegna dal 1860, a historic grocery store near the Duomo. This place is a foodie's paradise, with shelves overflowing with local delicacies, artisanal cheeses, cured meats, and wines. I picked up some cantucci biscuits and a bottle of Vin Santo to take back to our guest house. James found some interesting spices he wanted to try at home. It was a delightful sensory experience, surrounded by the aromas of Tuscan cuisine. I was especially impressed by the vast selection of wines and the expert staff who were happy to offer recommendations. This shop has been around for over 150 years, and it's easy to see why it's such a beloved institution in Florence. I think I will come back tomorrow to buy some more goodies to bring back home to Toronto.

For dinner, we had reservations at Osteria dell'Enoteca, another restaurant recommended by a friend. The osteria had a cozy and intimate atmosphere, with exposed brick walls and wooden tables. We ordered a selection of Tuscan specialties, including *pici all'aglione* (thick pasta with garlic and tomato sauce), *cinghiale in umido* (wild boar stew), and *trippa alla fiorentina* (Florentine-style tripe). The food was hearty and flavorful, showcasing the best of Tuscan cuisine. I was a bit hesitant to try the tripe, but I'm glad I did – it was surprisingly delicious! James was very happy with his wild boar stew, and Eglė enjoyed her pasta. The service was attentive and friendly, and the overall experience was excellent. I read somewhere that the Osteria is known for their Florentine steak, so I will definitely have to try that next time.

After dinner, we took a leisurely walk back to Residenza D'Epoca Sant'Egidio, our home away from home. The streets were quiet and peaceful, and the air was cool and crisp. I couldn't help but feel grateful for this incredible experience, for the chance to explore this beautiful city with my family. Florence had exceeded all my expectations, and I knew that this was a trip we would cherish forever.

As I sit here writing this, I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's adventures. We plan to visit Piazzale Michelangelo for panoramic views of the city, followed by a visit to the Basilica di San Miniato al Monte and Forte di Belvedere. And of course, we'll be sure to sample more of Florence's culinary delights. I am also excited to try FUK - Cocktail bar, music & more, which I saw on tomorrow's itinerary. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings!