Exploring the Untamed Beauty of Snaefellsnes Peninsula

Reflections on a Picture-Perfect Day

Today was one of those days that travel dreams are made of. The kind where every vista seems more breathtaking than the last, and the air is so crisp it feels like a tonic. Maximilian and I explored the iconic landscapes around Kirkjufell, and I found myself utterly captivated by the raw, untamed beauty of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. It's days like these that remind me why I traded my predictable life in Worcester for the nomadic existence I now cherish in Berlin.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Kirkjufell Mountain, a must-visit national park in Iceland, famed for its stunning landscapes and iconic waterfall.

Our day began, as all good days should, with a hearty breakfast. We ventured to Sjávarkjallarinn, a place recommended by several locals. While Sjávarkjallarinn is actually located in Reykjavik , and we are currently on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, I am sure the hearty breakfast we had was similar to what they would have served. Maximilian opted for the traditional Icelandic skyr with berries, while I went for the smoked salmon with rye bread. Fortified and ready for adventure, we set off towards our main destination: Kirkjufellsfossar.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Kirkjufellsfossar, an iconic waterfall nestled in the heart of Iceland, perfect for nature lovers and photography enthusiasts.

The drive itself was a treat. The landscape in September is awash with autumnal hues, the golds and reds providing a stunning contrast to the black lava fields. The weather forecast predicted a mix of sunshine and clouds, and that’s exactly what we got. The temperature hovered around 49°F (9°C), so we were glad we packed our warm layers.

As we rounded a bend, Kirkjufell came into view, and I gasped. It’s even more striking in person than in photos. The mountain rises majestically from the surrounding landscape, its symmetrical shape drawing the eye. The Kirkjufellsfossar waterfalls cascade down the gentle slopes nearby, creating a scene of serene beauty. We parked the car and spent a good hour simply wandering around, taking photos from every conceivable angle. I experimented with different settings on my camera, trying to capture the perfect shot of the mountain reflected in the water. Maximilian, ever the patient one, helped me adjust the tripod and waited while I fiddled with the aperture. It's moments like these that make traveling with my spouse so special; we share a passion for photography and a deep appreciation for nature's wonders.

The beauty of Kirkjufell isn't just in its visual appeal, but in the sense of peace and tranquility it instills.

After our photo session, we decided to explore the walking paths around Kirkjufell. We opted for the less challenging ground-level hike, as climbing to the summit is only recommended for experienced climbers with ropes and gear. Plus, I read that the mountain is off-limits for safety reasons from November 1st to June 15th each year. The hike around the mountain is about 6.5 km long and takes approximately two hours to complete. The trail offered stunning views of Kirkjufell and the surrounding coastline. We even spotted some seals basking on the rocks in the distance. The wind picked up as we rounded the far side of the mountain, and I was grateful for my warm hat and gloves.

For lunch, we drove to Arnarstapi Center and Snjófell Restaurant. This cozy spot is known for its delicious Icelandic cuisine and friendly service. We shared a bowl of the flavorful mushroom soup, which came with a generous serving of traditional Icelandic bread and butter. Maximilian raved about the lamb chops, while I savored the vegetarian option, a hearty vegetable stew. The restaurant itself is charming, with large windows offering panoramic views of Mount Stapafell. It’s the perfect place to relax and refuel after a morning of exploring.


Experience Icelandic flavors at Arnarstapi Center's Snjófell Restaurant amidst stunning coastal views.

After lunch, we considered visiting the nearby Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, but decided to save it for tomorrow [Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge]. Instead, we opted for a leisurely afternoon exploring the town of Ólafsvík. We stopped by Kaffi 59, a local bar, for a cup of coffee and a slice of cake. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and we chatted with some locals about their favorite spots on the peninsula.


Kaffi 59 in Grundarfjörður offers a warm atmosphere and delicious Icelandic flavors, perfect for a cozy meal after a day of exploring.

As evening approached, we made our way to Grundarfjörður for dinner. We had reservations at Bjargarsteinn Mathús, a local fine dining restaurant with a daily changing menu. The restaurant is housed in an old building that was originally built in Akranes in 1908 and later moved to Grundarfjörður. The chef is known for creating vegan dishes on request, which was a huge plus for me. Maximilian, of course, was eager to try the grilled cod, a local specialty.


Discover Bjargarsteinn Mathús: A delightful dining experience showcasing local flavors amidst breathtaking views in Grundarfjörður, Iceland.

Bjargarsteinn Mathús did not disappoint. The ambiance was cozy and intimate, with soft lighting and rustic décor. Maximilian thoroughly enjoyed his grilled cod, while the chef prepared a special vegan dish for me, a medley of roasted vegetables with quinoa and a tangy lemon dressing. It was truly one of the best vegan meals I’ve had in Iceland. The service was impeccable, and the staff were passionate about the local ingredients they used.

After dinner, we decided to take a stroll along the harbor in Grundarfjörður. The sky was clear, and the stars were beginning to twinkle. We held hands and watched as the fishing boats bobbed gently in the water. It was a perfect end to a perfect day.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore more of Snæfellsjökull National Park, including the Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge. We might even do some knitting- Kirkjufell knitting [Kirkjufell knitting]. I'm also hoping to spot some more wildlife and capture some stunning landscape photos. But for now, it’s time to rest and recharge for another day of adventure.

As I sit here writing this, I can’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience the beauty of Iceland with Maximilian. It’s moments like these that make all the challenges of travel worthwhile. And it’s these memories that I’ll carry with me long after we’ve left this magical island.

The Snaefellsnes Peninsula has a unique way of captivating its visitors. It is a place where the forces of nature are on full display, and the landscape is constantly changing. I am already looking forward to what tomorrow will bring.

Until then, takk fyrir (thank you) for following along on our journey!