A Family Adventure in Jotunheimen National Park
Day 4: Conquering Besseggen: A Family's Journey Through Jotunheimen's Heart
Hike with us through Jotunheimen's stunning Besseggen ridge. Discover Norway's natural beauty, folklore, and family adventure!
Besseggen Beckons
Today was the day we'd been anticipating since we first sketched out this Norwegian adventure: hiking Besseggen. The legendary ridge, with its dramatic views and challenging terrain, promised an unforgettable experience. We knew it wouldn't be a walk in the park, especially with Aino in tow, but we were ready to embrace the challenge and immerse ourselves in the raw beauty of Jotunheimen.
Experience the breathtaking beauty of Besseggen, a premier hiking destination in Norway’s Jotunheimen National Park, perfect for outdoor enthusiasts.
The day began with a hearty breakfast at Jotunstogo AS. It was located in the center of Beitostølen, with a great view over the mountains. Fueling up with strong coffee and traditional Norwegian fare was essential for the long day ahead. I savored every bite, knowing we'd need the energy. I made sure Aino had a hearty meal as well, reminding her that today was about endurance and teamwork. Markus checked our gear one last time, ensuring we had enough water, snacks, and extra layers. I had packed some waffles for Aino, knowing her energy levels sometimes dip mid-hike.
Experience authentic Norwegian cuisine at Jotunstogo AS in Beitostølen, where local flavors meet stunning mountain views.
We set off early, driving towards the trailhead, excitement bubbling in the car. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. As we approached the parking area, the towering peaks of Jotunheimen loomed in the distance, their rugged slopes a stark contrast to the serene blue sky. September is a beautiful time to hike, the weather is generally milder and the trail is free of snow. Plus, September offers greater flexibility to pick your weather window as you won't have to book the ferry in advance.
Our first stop was Gjendesheim, where we caught the ferry across the turquoise waters of Gjende Lake. The boat ride offered a unique perspective of the landscape, the mountains rising sharply from the water's edge. Aino was captivated by the color of the lake, a vibrant green that seemed almost unreal. I told her about the legends surrounding the lake, how its color was said to be caused by glacial meltwater and the minerals it carried. She listened intently, her imagination ignited by the stories. The ferry ride was short but sweet, depositing us at Memurubu, the starting point of our Besseggen adventure.
The initial ascent was steep and demanding, testing our resolve right from the start. The path was rocky, requiring careful footing, and the incline seemed relentless. I could feel my heart pounding in my chest, my breath coming in short gasps. Aino, though initially enthusiastic, soon began to lag behind. I encouraged her, reminding her of the stunning views that awaited us at the top. Markus took her hand, offering her support and pacing her steps. We took frequent breaks, catching our breath and taking in the scenery. I tried to focus on the small victories, each step forward a testament to our determination.
The mountains are calling and I must go. - John Muir
As we climbed higher, the landscape transformed, the trees giving way to bare rock and sweeping vistas. The views were simply breathtaking, the turquoise Gjende Lake stretching out below us, framed by towering peaks. On the other side, the deep blue Bessvatnet Lake provided a striking contrast, creating a visual spectacle that was truly awe-inspiring. I paused to capture the moment with my camera, trying to encapsulate the grandeur of the scene. Aino, now re-energized by the views, skipped ahead, her earlier fatigue forgotten.
The ridge itself was narrow and exposed, requiring careful steps and a steady hand. The wind whipped around us, adding to the challenge, but the views were worth every ounce of effort. We traversed the ridge slowly, cautiously, marveling at the dramatic drop-offs on either side. Aino, initially apprehensive, soon found her rhythm, her confidence growing with each step. Markus and I kept a close watch on her, ensuring her safety and offering words of encouragement. I felt a surge of pride watching her navigate the challenging terrain, her determination shining through.
Lunch was a welcome respite, a chance to rest our weary legs and refuel our bodies. We found a sheltered spot overlooking the lakes and unpacked our sandwiches and snacks. The food tasted especially delicious after the exertion of the climb, each bite a reward for our efforts. Aino devoured her waffles, her face smeared with chocolate, her laughter echoing through the mountains. I savored a cup of hot tea, the warmth spreading through my body, chasing away the chill of the wind. We sat in silence for a few moments, simply absorbing the beauty around us, grateful for the opportunity to share this experience as a family.
The descent was just as challenging as the ascent, the steep slopes and rocky terrain testing our knees and ankles. We took our time, carefully picking our way down, mindful of the potential for slips and falls. Aino, now tired and sore, began to grumble, her earlier enthusiasm waning. I distracted her with stories of Nordic folklore, tales of trolls and mythical creatures that inhabited these mountains. She listened attentively, her imagination once again capturing her attention. Markus, ever the practical one, pointed out interesting geological formations, explaining how the mountains were formed over millions of years. Together, we kept her spirits up, pushing her to keep going, one step at a time.
As we neared the end of the trail, the sun began to dip below the horizon, casting long shadows across the landscape. The sky transformed into a canvas of vibrant colors, hues of orange, pink, and purple painting the clouds. The mountains took on a golden glow, their rugged peaks silhouetted against the fiery sky. It was a magical moment, a perfect ending to an unforgettable day. I felt a sense of accomplishment wash over me, a deep satisfaction knowing that we had conquered Besseggen as a family.
We celebrated our achievement with dinner at Elveseter Hotell. This family-owned mountain lodge in Bøverdal Valley was about 25 km from Jotunheimen National Park. The excellent breakfast included both Norwegian and American foods. The very nice 3-course dinner in a nice dining room had good views of the mountains. The hotel has a lot of atmosphere with a lot of quaint wall decor. The warm and inviting atmosphere was the perfect way to unwind after our long hike. We feasted on traditional Norwegian cuisine, savoring every bite, our bodies aching but our spirits soaring. Aino, exhausted but happy, fell asleep in my lap, her face serene and content.
Discover Elveseter Hotell: A delightful blend of dining, art, and cultural experiences nestled in Norway's breathtaking landscapes.
Later, Markus and I enjoyed a drink at Bryggerihuset AS (Brew House). This beer bar serves craft beers instead of the usual mass produced beer. It has a great craft beers on tap and a lot on bottles. Bryggerihuset is an Approwed BrewDog DogDealer, and we will get limited small batch beers on tap every month, that only will be served at BrewDog Bars and BrewDog Dogdealers. We reminisced about our adventure, reliving the highlights of the day. We agreed that Besseggen was one of the most challenging but rewarding hikes we had ever done, a testament to our family's resilience and our love for the outdoors.
Discover Bryggerihuset AS in Beitostølen: A delightful brew house offering local beers, hearty dishes, and lively entertainment.
As I write this, tucked away in our tent, the wind gently rustling against the canvas, I can't help but feel grateful for this experience. Jotunheimen has a way of stripping away the superficial, revealing the raw beauty of nature and the strength of the human spirit. Tomorrow, we plan to visit Klimapark 2469 and the Poem Ladder of Jan Magnus Bruheim. But for tonight, I'll drift off to sleep, dreaming of towering peaks, turquoise lakes, and the unwavering bond of family.
“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.” – John Muir
Go to day 3
Chasing Waterfalls and Hulders: A Day of Myth and Majesty in Jotunheimen
Go to day 5
Whispers of Ice and Verse: A Day of Discovery in Jotunheimen
A Family Adventure in Jotunheimen National Park
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Join us on an 11-day family adventure in Norway's Jotunheimen National Park, exploring stunning landscapes and rich folklore. Experience nature up close.
Meet this Featured Explorer
Jennifer Smith
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Occupation:
Librarian specializing in Arctic and Nordic literature
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Country:
Finland
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Age:
46
Hei! I'm Jennifer, an Alaskan-born librarian currently living in the enchanting city of Helsinki. My journey has taken me from the rugged wilderness of Alaska to the vibrant landscapes of Finland, and I'm passionate about sharing my travel experiences with you. As a librarian, I've always been drawn to stories – both those found in books and those waiting to be discovered in the world around us. Join me as I explore eco-conscious travel, delve into Nordic culture, and uncover the hidden gems that make our planet so extraordinary. With my family by my side, I seek authentic cultural experiences and outdoor adventures, and I hope to inspire you to do the same!
Interests:
- Nordic mythology
- Sustainable living
- Folklore
- Hiking
- Photography
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