Solo Art Exploration on Naoshima Island

Whispers of Water and Wind

Today was a day of pilgrimage, a journey to a place where art transcends the confines of walls and merges seamlessly with the natural world. Leaving Naoshima behind for a day, I set off to explore Teshima Island, a serene escape that promised an encounter with art unlike any other. The ferry ride itself was a meditative prelude, the gentle rocking of the boat and the vast expanse of the Seto Inland Sea preparing me for the sensory feast that awaited.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Perma_Naoshima (パーマ). I had read about their delicious ramen, a culinary tradition that perfectly embodies the artistic charm of Naoshima. It was a great start to the day, and gave me the energy I needed for the day's adventure.

First stop: the iconic Teshima Art Museum. After a short bus ride from the port, I began my approach to the museum, a path winding through lush greenery and terraced rice fields. The landscape itself felt like a carefully curated exhibition, each element contributing to a sense of anticipation. The Teshima Art Museum operates on a reservation system, so I was sure to purchase my ticket online in advance. As I strolled along the serene path, the sea breezes mingled with the earthy aromas of the forest, creating a symphony of senses.

The Teshima Art Museum is not just about the building and the artwork within it; it guides visitors through a unique experience of nature, which should be treasured and respected by humankind.

As I approached the museum, its organic form emerged from the landscape, resembling a water droplet poised to land. Designed by architect Ryue Nishizawa in collaboration with artist Rei Naito, the museum is a marvel of minimalist architecture, a concrete shell devoid of pillars, allowing the surrounding nature to take center stage. Inside, I removed my shoes, a symbolic gesture of entering a sacred space. The interior was breathtaking: a single, open space where water droplets emerged from the ground, dancing across the smooth concrete floor. Two oval openings in the ceiling invited the elements in, the wind, sounds, and light becoming integral parts of the artwork.
The experience was profoundly moving, a meditation on the interconnectedness of art, architecture, and nature. The subtle changes in light and shadow, the gentle breeze caressing my skin, the sound of water trickling across the floor – all created a sense of wonder and serenity. It was a reminder of the beauty and fragility of life, a call to be present in the moment. I spent a long time simply lying on the floor, watching the water droplets as they coalesced and dispersed, feeling a sense of connection to something larger than myself.
Leaving the Teshima Art Museum, I felt a sense of renewal, my senses heightened and my mind at peace. I decided to have lunch at Ishii Shouten, a local udon shop in the Honmura area. The shop was run by two sweet elderly women, and I enjoyed a hearty bowl of Kagawa udon. It was simple but delicious, and just what I needed after my morning of contemplation. It was nice to take a break and enjoy some local cuisine.

Next on the agenda was finding George Rickey’s “Three Squares Vertical Diagonal, 1972-82”. I decided to rent a bicycle to make my way along the coastal road. The summer breeze was refreshing as I pedaled, enjoying the scenic views of the Seto Inland Sea. Finally, I spotted the kinetic sculpture, its heavy iron plates swaying gracefully in the wind. The sculpture's serene dance against the backdrop of the coastal path was mesmerizing, a testament to Rickey's ability to capture movement and balance in his work. I spent some time observing the sculpture from different angles, appreciating how it interacted with the environment.
As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to dinner at Luke's Table, a restaurant at My Lodge Naoshima. I was able to enjoy a satisfying meal with ocean views. The menu featured a range of locally grown and farmed food, prepared with traditional Japanese methods and French-inspired recipes. It was the perfect way to end a day of artistic exploration. The multilingual staff was very friendly and helpful.

After dinner, I decided to check out Ebisukamo, a cozy izakaya known for its incredible food and friendly staff. The owner was very welcoming, and I enjoyed chatting with him and the other patrons. I sampled some of the local sake and a few of the chef's specialties, including the clams in sake and yellowtail sashimi. It was a delightful way to experience the local culture and unwind after a long day. The atmosphere was cozy and inviting, and I felt right at home.

As I reflect on my day, I am struck by the power of art to transform our perception of the world. Teshima Island is a testament to the ability of art and nature to coexist in perfect harmony, creating an experience that is both deeply moving and profoundly inspiring. The Teshima Art Museum, in particular, is a place where time seems to stand still, where the boundaries between inside and outside blur, and where the simple act of observing water droplets can become a spiritual experience.
Tomorrow, I'll be back on Naoshima Island, ready to explore the Ando Museum and the Art House Project: Go'o Shrine. I'm also planning to visit Mikazukishoten, a local shop that I've heard great things about. I can't wait to see what new artistic discoveries await me.


Experience authentic ramen at Perma_Naoshima, where culinary tradition meets the artistic charm of Naoshima Island.


Discover the Teshima Art Museum, where contemporary art transcends into nature, creating an inspiring and tranquil experience on Teshima Island.


Experience authentic handmade udon noodles at Ishii Shouten in Naoshima - where tradition meets taste in every bowl.


Experience the captivating movement of George Rickey's Three Squares Vertical Diagonal, a kinetic sculpture blending art and nature on the enchanting island of Naoshima.


Discover Luke's Table: A culinary haven on Naoshima offering exquisite Italian dishes and delightful breakfast options in an artistic paradise.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.


Discover the authentic taste of Japan at Ebisukamo, where traditional flavors meet serene island vibes in Naoshima.