Family Adventure in the Heart of Oaxaca

Whispers of the Past, Tastes of the Present

Today was a day of diving deep into the heart of Oaxaca, a journey through time and nature that left me breathless. From exploring ancient ruins perched atop mountains to wandering through gardens teeming with life, every moment felt like a step further into the soul of this vibrant region. And of course, no day in Oaxaca is complete without indulging in its incredible culinary scene. Let me tell you about the adventures we had today!

Our day began with an early start, fueled by anticipation and a strong cup of Oaxacan coffee. We headed straight for the Zona Arqueológica de Monte Albán, a pre-Columbian archaeological site that sits majestically on a mountaintop overlooking the city. The drive up was an adventure in itself, with winding roads offering stunning panoramic views of the Oaxaca Valley. As we climbed higher, the air grew crisper, and the anticipation mounted. Sofia was especially excited, peppering me with questions about the people who built this ancient city. Isabella, ever the historian, had her guidebook open, ready to delve into the depths of Zapotec and Mixtec history.


Discover the ancient wonders of Monte Albán, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where history and breathtaking landscapes meet in Oaxaca, Mexico.

Stepping onto the Grand Plaza of Monte Albán felt like stepping back in time. The sheer scale of the site is awe-inspiring, with its towering pyramids, ceremonial platforms, and intricate stone carvings. I tried to imagine what life must have been like here centuries ago, when this was a thriving metropolis. The kids were fascinated by the Danzantes, a series of rock carvings depicting figures in various poses. Our guide explained that these figures were likely rulers or captives, their images a testament to the power and might of the Zapotec civilization.

Isabella pointed out the ball court, where ancient athletes competed in a ritualistic game that was both sport and sacrifice. The views from the top of the pyramids were simply breathtaking, stretching across the valley and offering a unique perspective on the city below. Even Sofia, who usually prefers modern marvels, was captivated by the ancient wonders around us. Walking through Monte Albán in January was ideal, with mild temperatures and clear skies making the experience even more enjoyable.

After a morning of exploring ancient history, our stomachs were rumbling, and it was time for breakfast. We drove back to Oaxaca City and headed to Casa Taviche, a restaurant recommended by several locals. The place was bustling with activity, a mix of locals and tourists all eager to sample the daily specials. We managed to snag a table in the courtyard, a charming space filled with colorful plants and the gentle sounds of a nearby fountain. Casa Taviche is known for its affordable and delicious Oaxacan cuisine, and it certainly didn't disappoint.


Experience authentic Oaxacan flavors at Casa Taviche – where tradition meets modern culinary art in the heart of Mexico.

I opted for the *huevos rancheros*, a classic Mexican breakfast dish, while Isabella tried the *tlayuda* with chorizo, a giant crispy tortilla topped with beans, cheese, and various other goodies. Sofia, always a bit more adventurous, went for the *chapulines*, toasted grasshoppers seasoned with chili and lime. I must admit, I was a bit hesitant to try them, but Sofia insisted they were delicious. And you know what? She was right! They had a surprisingly savory and crunchy texture, a unique and unforgettable Oaxacan delicacy. The menu changes daily, ensuring there's always something new and exciting to try.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we set off to explore another of Oaxaca's treasures: the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca. This botanical garden is unlike any I've ever visited, a living museum that showcases the incredible diversity of plant life in the region. Located behind the Santo Domingo Cultural Center, the garden was once part of a monastery and later a military compound. It was transformed into a botanical garden in the 1990s, thanks to the vision of local artists and conservationists.


Explore the stunning Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca, a vibrant botanical garden showcasing native plants and rich cultural heritage, perfect for nature lovers.

Access to the garden is only through guided tours, which I initially thought might be restrictive, but it turned out to be a blessing. Our guide was incredibly knowledgeable, sharing fascinating stories about the plants and their relationship to the people of Oaxaca. We learned about medicinal plants used for centuries to heal various ailments, cacti that thrive in the arid landscapes, and agave plants used to produce mezcal, Oaxaca's famous spirit. The garden is a testament to the dedication of conservationists and botanists who work tirelessly to preserve Oaxaca's unique biodiversity.

One of the most striking features of the garden is its lack of signage. This was a deliberate design choice, intended to create a seamless aesthetic and encourage visitors to engage with the plants on a more personal level. As we wandered through the garden, I was struck by the beauty and resilience of nature. The vibrant colors, the intricate textures, and the sheer variety of plant life were a feast for the senses. Sofia was particularly fascinated by the towering cacti, marveling at their ability to survive in such harsh conditions. Isabella, meanwhile, was busy snapping photos of the various flowers and succulents, capturing their beauty for posterity.

As the afternoon wore on, we found ourselves in the heart of Oaxaca City, ready for lunch. We chose Catedral Restaurant, drawn in by its beautiful setting near the Oaxaca Cathedral and Zocalo. The restaurant has been around since 1976, and I was looking forward to trying some traditional Oaxacan dishes. The atmosphere was lovely, with live music adding to the charm.


Experience authentic Oaxacan flavors at Catedral Restaurant, where tradition meets taste in every delicious dish.

I decided to try the *mole manchamantel*, recommended as a must-try dish. Isabella opted for the *elote tamale*, and Sofia chose something simple from the kids' menu. My mole was rich and flavorful, a complex blend of spices and chilies that left a pleasant warmth on my palate. Isabella raved about her tamale, describing it as an incredible culinary experience. The service was attentive, and the overall ambiance made it a memorable meal.

Oaxaca is a place where the past and the present intertwine, where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with modern life, and where every corner holds a new surprise.

As evening approached, we decided to experience Oaxaca's vibrant nightlife with a visit to La Mezcaloteca. This mezcal bar is known for its extensive collection of agave spirits and its knowledgeable staff. I wanted to learn more about mezcal, a drink that is deeply rooted in Oaxacan culture. The bar itself is small and intimate, with a cozy atmosphere that invites conversation and contemplation.


Unveil the rich flavors of artisanal mezcal at La Mezcaloteca, a vibrant bar in Oaxaca celebrating local culture and heritage.

We sat at the bar and ordered a tasting flight, allowing the bartender to guide us through the various flavors and aromas of mezcal. I learned about the different types of agave used to make mezcal, the traditional methods of production, and the unique characteristics of each expression. It was a fascinating journey into the world of mezcal, one that deepened my appreciation for this complex and nuanced spirit. I found the experience super cool, and a project to get interesting mezcals from all over Mexico and catalog them.

Isabella, who is not usually a fan of strong spirits, was surprised by how much she enjoyed the mezcal. She appreciated the smoky notes and the subtle complexities of the different expressions. Sofia, of course, wasn't allowed to drink, but she enjoyed the atmosphere and the lively conversation. I made a mental note to pick up a bottle of my favorite mezcal to take back home to Toronto, a reminder of our Oaxacan adventure.

For dinner, we decided to go to Origen, a restaurant that had been recommended for its innovative and complexly flavored dishes. We were pleasantly surprised, and the dishes were innovative. I didn't know some of the ingredients, as well as some common ingredients prepared in unusual ways. If you can only go to Origen once, I recommend going for one of the tasting menus! It's incredibly affordable by tasting menu standards, and just might introduce you to new flavors you'll fall in love with.


Discover Oaxacan culinary artistry at Origen – where tradition meets taste in every dish.

As we walked back to Hotel Camba, the city was alive with music and laughter. The air was filled with the aroma of street food, and the sounds of mariachi bands echoed through the streets. I felt a deep sense of contentment, a feeling of having truly experienced the magic of Oaxaca. We stumbled upon Sensamaya performing live son cubano at Humito, a restaurant owned by Mexican singer Lila Downs, which added a perfect end to the day. It's great to experience some local ceremonies and religious dedications up close.


Discover comfort and convenience at Hotel Camba in Oaxaca, a charming base for your adventures with free Wi-Fi and tour assistance.

Tomorrow, we're planning to visit Hierve el Agua and Teotitlán del Valle. I've heard so much about the petrified waterfalls of Hierve el Agua, and I'm excited to see them for myself. And Teotitlán del Valle, a traditional weaving village, promises to be a fascinating glimpse into the artistry and craftsmanship of the Zapotec people. I'm also looking forward to breakfast at Itanoní, lunch at La Olla, and dinner at Sabina Sabe. And who knows, maybe we'll find some time to explore the Oaxaca Artisan Market, a treasure trove of local crafts and souvenirs. I'm especially excited to try out some Mezcal, which is considered one of the cleanest alcoholic beverages in the world, by the traditional distillation system. I'm also excited to see the process of carding, spinning, and dyeing with natural pigments.

As I sit here writing this, I can't help but feel grateful for this incredible journey. Oaxaca has captured my heart, and I know that I will carry its spirit with me long after I've left. It's a place where the past and the present intertwine, where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with modern life, and where every corner holds a new surprise. And as a Colombian-Canadian, I feel a special connection to this vibrant culture, a reminder of the rich heritage that shapes who I am. Good night from Oaxaca!