Restaurant Schønnemann Travel Guide

Restaurant Schønnemann stands as one of Copenhagen's most enduring culinary institutions, with roots stretching back to 1877. The restaurant's founding coincided with the emergence of smørrebrød culture in Copenhagen, a period when the city's rapid urbanization brought farmers, traders, and workers seeking quick, affordable meals. What began as a simple café in a basement on the opposite side of Hauser Plads evolved into the beloved establishment that occupies its current location since 1901. The restaurant's name reflects its transformation: originally called Café Hauser Plads, it was renamed Restaurant Schønnemann after Petrus Schønnemann, a cook who married into the founding family and brought his culinary expertise to the operation.

At the heart of Schønnemann's identity lies an extraordinary commitment to smørrebrød craftsmanship. The menu presents over 110 varieties of these open-faced sandwiches, including an impressive selection of 21 types of herring—each cured and aged by the restaurant's expert chefs using time-honored techniques. The foundation of every creation is house-baked rye bread, paired with ingredients sourced with meticulous attention to quality. Many of the cheeses are aged in nearby caves, the smoked salmon and eel tartare are silky and refined, and the white fish selections showcase the finest catches available. Signature creations like Madame Schønnemann—combining calf tongue, chicken salad, and mustard—have become legendary among Copenhagen's food enthusiasts. The restaurant's philosophy is simple yet profound: in a dish this simple, every detail matters, and Schønnemann executes each element with fastidious precision.

Descending into Schønnemann's basement dining room is like stepping into a carefully preserved chapter of Copenhagen's past. Dark wood panelling, forest-green walls, crisp white tablecloths, and fustian-covered chairs create an ambience of unabashed old-school charm. Flickering candles cast a warm glow across tables where diners raise their glasses in convivial toasts. The décor eschews modern trends, instead celebrating the aesthetic of a better, bygone world—one where lunch was a leisurely affair and hospitality was paramount. This authentic atmosphere, combined with the efficient yet genuinely attentive service of seasoned waiters, makes Schønnemann feel less like a restaurant and more like a cherished institution where time moves at its own pace.

Historically, Schønnemann served the farmers and coalers who came to Copenhagen's markets on trading days, leaving their horses and carriages on Hauser Plads while they refreshed themselves with beer, schnapps, and hearty food. Today, the clientele has evolved, but the spirit remains unchanged. A mixed crowd of businesspeople in suits, locals, young and old, ladies and gentlemen, and food enthusiasts gather expectantly for lunch. The informal atmosphere encourages conversation and camaraderie; strangers become companions over shared plates and raised glasses. This democratic approach to dining—where a blue-collar worker sits beside a businessperson, and everyone is equally welcomed—reflects the restaurant's deep roots in Copenhagen's working-class culture.

The restaurant's survival through more than a century of change speaks to its adaptability and commitment to excellence. Before the 1970s and into the early 2000s, Schønnemann faced periods of decline, even temporarily managed by celebrated chefs seeking to revitalize the concept. The turning point came in 2015 when experienced restaurant couple Juliette and Thomas Gaarn Rasmussen acquired the establishment and returned it to its roots. Rather than modernizing, they recommitted to smørrebrød tradition, and in doing so, helped spark a broader renaissance of this humble Danish classic. The couple continues to develop new dishes, laying the seeds for tomorrow's classics while honoring the recipes and techniques that have defined Schønnemann for generations.